I've used the turtle wax trim restorer, works well, doesn't last real long though. Just got some 303 for my new to me soft top, worked great on that, did the fender flares too, turned them nice and black, we'll see how long it lasts. Trux Outfitters carries 303 by the way.

 

Thanks for the feedback on the Turtle wax trim restore. I was really debating between that and Detail Doctor. Yesterday, I did the detail doctor treatment and it worked well.

 

Here's the initial results after using Detail Doctor. These were the items which were most faded. So far I'm happy with it. Now it's time to wait and see how it lasts against the test of time.

Day 1 Before/After

Bumper:


Hood Latch:


Gas:


A couple notes:
- It took about a complete day before it was fully dry, where before it dried it left a sticky to the touch residue.
- Reading the packaging closely in a flammability warning message it says it contains "Linseed Oil", making me wonder if I could have saved some money by just purchasing some linseed oil.
- It was easy to apply, just put it on a towel/rag/applicator then whipe it on, let it dry. No rubbing or elbow grease required.

 

I'll be sure to try some.
So many Forum Members swear by the product, it must be good.
I have gotten a lot of great advice on this website from the Members.

 

Very good point, sir.

To clean, use mild soap and water. The sponge is the best idea too.
To make to sparkle, use one of the things suggested here.

 

Personally, I would not buy video displays unless I change this ugly gas tank hole to the door Just used Mother Back to Black and result is OK, but not as black as I expected. Also pretty tough to get this thing on top of hard top.

 

Wipe new works great on my jeep!

 

Man, I can't believe that this thread has lasted for years. As I read the posts, I realized that the whole issue is that all plastics are formulated from petroleum. It would make sense to suppose that any product with petroleum or oil in it's formula would 'rejuvenate' that petroleum based plastic. The sheen and newness of plastic will eventually fade and no product will ever bring it back to new condition. Personally, I would consider painting any plastic item that has faded with a good quality paint that is made for plastic. These paints have the elasticity that is needed to prevent cracking when these items flex. Last longer and looks much better.

 

I've used the Back to Black but found Detail Doctor on sale so tried that. Detail Doctor did turn things black and is MUCH more permanent but I didn't like the resulting care you need when using it. If you get it on the paint unknowingly, it turns black over time and has to be scraped off gently. It's pretty hard to do the handles, door latches, etc. without going over the edges on the paint. Detail Doctor almost forms a hard shell. Back to Black didn't last as long but ho hassles.

Here is the problem. I prefer the easier Back to Black once in a while which is easy to do and no worry about being a little sloppy. However, after using the Detail Doctor, the Back to Black won't sink in the way it used to. I am thinking that I'm going to need to strip the fenders with something to remove the Detail Doctor. I know it's linseed oil based (and says it causes spontaneous combustion).

Any ideas on products that I could try to give the fenders a good cleaning to remove the old products and start fresh?

 

I use Meguiar's Ultimate Black. I was skeptical as so many products claim to work, but this one really does. My faded fenders looked like new again after one application (2012 Rubicon), and it lasts about a month before it needs to be reapplied.