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Clutch Replacement

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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 07:48 AM
  #1  
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JK Freak
 
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Default Clutch Replacement

I don't see any write ups or info on changing out a JK's clutch. I have yet to replace my clutch and would like all the tips and tricks I can get, a write up would be best...

Best clutch brands on the market..

Assembly and disassembly

Tools for the job
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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..............bump
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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I cant find any details on this on any web site.. this would be a huge help if someone could come aong and do a wrtie up.. it would be of great use in a place like ProjectJK.com
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Old Feb 6, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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Centerforce is a popluar aftermarket brand. I have used them in the past on other vechicles.

I can write up a general procedure of what needs to be done and the usual aspects of lining the clutch up during install. I have not replaced a clutch on a JK but have done more than I can count in my life. Let me know if that would help you.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 01:29 AM
  #5  
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Shy away from a "bargain" clutch cough*Oreillys*cough, decent for the price ($160!) in a pinch but I'm am certain it's gonna fry. 2nd day after returning to the road was when the snow storm hit Chicago and I got clutch slippage when in 4WH and plowing through some snow. Also, pedal feels like barely anything there. FYI

Nick
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by toymaster
Centerforce is a popluar aftermarket brand. I have used them in the past on other vechicles.

I can write up a general procedure of what needs to be done and the usual aspects of lining the clutch up during install. I have not replaced a clutch on a JK but have done more than I can count in my life. Let me know if that would help you.
Yes that would be great. I know I have to remove the drive shafts front and rear. All wires going to the transmission. Unbolt the transmission from the engine. Have the engine properly supported. Support the transmission then unbolt the crossmember and drop the transfer case and transmission out at the same time... Then I'm lost.. As to what to look for. I know I have to remove the clutch check the fly wheel and when installing the clutch use an alignment tool... I'd feel better about it with step by step instructions with proper torq specs... But I'm guessing that's a huge write up.
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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I
Was going to use the Centerforce JK dual
Action clutch ...

The one northridge sells
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:19 AM
  #8  
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I would remove the tcase from trans before u drop the tranny. It Well be alot lighter if u do.

There are nuts that bolt tcase to trans.
With that off u can remove cross member and lower the trans n engine a bit to access upper bolts.
I wouldn't let the trans hang on an angle with tcase on though.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeep Hound
Yes that would be great. I know I have to remove the drive shafts front and rear. All wires going to the transmission. Unbolt the transmission from the engine. Have the engine properly supported. Support the transmission then unbolt the crossmember and drop the transfer case and transmission out at the same time... Then I'm lost.. As to what to look for. I know I have to remove the clutch check the fly wheel and when installing the clutch use an alignment tool... I'd feel better about it with step by step instructions with proper torq specs... But I'm guessing that's a huge write up.
As you said you have to disconnect everything from the transmission

1. Jack up the Jeep to a good working height. Verify it is properly supported, wheels are chocked, and parking brake applied. Safety first!

2. Remove both drive shafts

3. Remove the transmission gear shifter. Remove the interior boots and you should be able to figure out how comes out. This is the toughest thing to figure out. Like I said I don’t know the JK but, you have to remove the shifter to slide the transmission out. Note: leave in gear, not neutral.

4. Disconnect transfer case shifter linkage or remove shifter so nothing is above the top of the transmission housing.

5. Disconnect all wires going to transmission. The connectors usually have a red tab to slide over then press the tab to release. Each is a PITA and they are easy to break.

6. Remove the clutch pedal slave cylinder from the transmission bell housing. It will either twist into the housing or have a bolt holding it.


At this point nothing should be touching the transmission except for the motor and cross member. A floor jack will work but they also make special transmission jacks. Or, you can buy a transmission bracket (adaptor) to fit on a floor jack. The transmission jack has a bigger lifting plate and has chains to wrap around the transmission housing. You can take off the transfer case but I suggest to leave it on….the key is to support the entire transmission in the center of balance. I usually try under the cross member or at the back of the transmission pan. When in doubt it is a two person job, especially if you are just using just a floor jack. One person on each side as you pull the transmission away from the motor. Just be ready when they pull apart for the trans to shift. You don’t want the trans to fall off the jack and hurt you.


7. Remove all bolts in the bell housing. These hold the transmission to the motor block. The bottom ones are easy to get to. The top ones you either have to get from up top (under the hood) or have a long extension (3’ range) with a swivel by the socket.

8. After the jack is in place, remove cross member bolts from frame. Place a jack stand under the motor oil pan just in case but not close enough to limit movement. The motor mounts will hold the motor just fine. The jack stand is there in case of motor mount failure (extremely rare).

9. When you and your friend are ready pull the trans away from the motor. After the transmission input shaft clears the motor/clutch then you can lower the trans and slide it out of the way.

10. Remove pressure plate.

11. Inspect flywheel and pilot bearing/bushing

12. Replace clutch throw out bearing. It will be on the actuator arm, around the transmission input shaft.

13. Install new clutch disk and pressure plate. Use a clutch alignment tool or use your eye. The center of the clutch disk needs to be in the center of the pressure plate and the pilot hole/bushing in the motor block.

14. Bring up transmission and guide input shaft into clutch disk. If it is real close and will not slide into the disk then turn the transmission output shaft so the input shaft will turn. Note: this is why you left it in gear. Also,it is common to have to also jack the motor up by the oil pan to align the motor/trans.

15. Once the transmission is seated install one bell housing bolt and cross member bolts.

16. Take a break you’re tired.

17. Install the remaining bolts and hook up all wires, linkage, shifters, and drive shafts.


Don’t worry too much about torque specs, make sure the bolts are seated properly and tight but don’t try to break your tools. Use Locktight on the pressure plate bolts and torque specs that came with the instructions.

Last edited by toymaster; Feb 8, 2011 at 05:55 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 02:34 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by toymaster

As you said you have to disconnect everything from the transmission

1. Jack up the Jeep to a good working height. Verify it is properly supported, wheels are chocked, and parking brake applied. Safety first!

2. Remove both drive shafts

3. Remove the transmission gear shifter. Remove the interior boots and you should be able to figure out how comes out. This is the toughest thing to figure out. Like I said I don't know the JK but, you have to remove the shifter to slide the transmission out. Note: leave in gear, not neutral.

4. Disconnect transfer case shifter linkage or remove shifter so nothing is above the top of the transmission housing.

5. Disconnect all wires going to transmission. The connectors usually have a red tab to slide over then press the tab to release. Each is a PITA and they are easy to break.

6. Remove the clutch pedal slave cylinder from the transmission bell housing. It will either twist into the housing or have a bolt holding it.

At this point nothing should be touching the transmission except for the motor and cross member. A floor jack will work but they also make special transmission jacks. Or, you can buy a transmission bracket (adaptor) to fit on a floor jack. The transmission jack has a bigger lifting plate and has chains to wrap around the transmission housing. You can take off the transfer case but I suggest to leave it on....the key is to support the entire transmission in the center of balance. I usually try under the cross member or at the back of the transmission pan. When in doubt it is a two person job, especially if you are just using just a floor jack. One person on each side as you pull the transmission away from the motor. Just be ready when they pull apart for the trans to shift. You don't want the trans to fall off the jack and hurt you.

7. Remove all bolts in the bell housing. These hold the transmission to the motor block. The bottom ones are easy to get to. The top ones you either have to get from up top (under the hood) or have a long extension (3' range) with a swivel by the socket.

8. After the jack is in place, remove cross member bolts from frame. Place a jack stand under the motor oil pan just in case but not close enough to limit movement. The motor mounts will hold the motor just fine. The jack stand is there in case of motor mount failure (extremely rare).

9. When you and your friend are ready pull the trans away from the motor. After the transmission input shaft clears the motor/clutch then you can lower the trans and slide it out of the way.

10. Remove pressure plate.

11. Inspect flywheel and pilot bearing/bushing

12. Replace clutch throw out bearing. It will be on the actuator arm, around the transmission input shaft.

13. Install new clutch disk and pressure plate. Use a clutch alignment tool or use your eye. The center of the clutch disk needs to be in the center of the pressure plate and the pilot hole/bushing in the motor block.

14. Bring up transmission and guide input shaft into clutch disk. If it is real close and will not slide into the disk then turn the transmission output shaft so the input shaft will turn. Note: this is why you left it in gear. Also,it is common to have to also jack the motor up by the oil pan to align the motor/trans.

15. Once the transmission is seated install one bell housing bolt and cross member bolts.

16. Take a break you're tired.

17. Install the remaining bolts and hook up all wires, linkage, shifters, and drive shafts.

Don't worry too much about torque specs, make sure the bolts are seated properly and tight but don't try to break your tools. Use Locktight on the pressure plate bolts and torque specs that came with the instructions.
Thank you sir. I had no idea there was that much to it
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