I am heading out on vacation Friday and I just noticed that my coolant bottle only has a couple of inches in it. I looked around and there appears to be coolant weeping from the passenger side edge of the water pumping it there is dried up coolant caked on down near the oil filter. Funny how this wasn't noticed at my dealer oil change 2,000 miles ago. I doubt I can get it changed before I leave so I need to know what kind of antifreeze is compatible with this red coolant (09 jk)? I have red Toyota antifreeze in the garage and also red shell rolula ELC . Is this stuff compatible? I do have a max care warranty so I don't want to use the wrong stuff and give them a reason to not cover the repair. Thank you

 

I actually just checked the bottle cold and it is completely empty. I then checked the radiator and it is full. Going to get antifreeze today. Also, is the water pumps a common problem. It appears to be leaking from the gasket where the water pump contacts the front of the engine block. I'm use to seeing water pumps leaking at the shaft,bearing.

 

Your coolant is pink, not red. But, color is no longer a good way to differentiate coolants. Even all years of JKs cannot be intermixed--07-12 uses HOAT and 13 and later have gone to OAT. Not compatible. So, go to your local Jeep dealer and plunk down $25 for a bottle of Mopar HOAT coolant. Mix it 50-50 and add that. To be honest, don't fill above the min line when the engine is hot. Otherwise, when you get off-road on steep stuff like this ...



... you'll find your coolant spilling out into your engine compartment from the reservoir (which please note does not have a tube to drop it below the engine compartment).

As soon as possible, buy a new (not rebuilt) water pump at O'Reilly's for $38 plus tax. It includes the gasket you'll need. Also plunk down $20 or so for a can of Prestone The Right Stuff and use it (regardless of what the directions for the water pump say) on that gasket. It will take a couple hours, if you're slow like me, to replace the pump. You can find directions on the web on how to do it. Follow the directions, but skip any step that has you drain the radiator--it's not necessary unless you plan to flush and refill the entire coolant system (recommended at 100K miles).

Here's the procedure I used (just yesterday, in fact): Remove the serpentine belt, remove the three bolts holding the pulley on the water pump (a screwdriver or line-up tool in one of the three holes can be jammed to keep the pulley from turning while you break those bolts free). The pulley then just slides off (don't get confused by the threads you see). Then loosen the seven bolts holding the water pump on--don't take them off, just loosen them, top a little more than bottom bolts. Place a large (2-gallon or so) bucket on a plastic sheet/bag directly under the pump. Pry the pump gently forward from the top.



Once fluid starts draining, just let it run. After about 1-2 quarts, it will be done. Remove the pump and clean up the area. Use 220 grit of so emory cloth to buff up the mating surface on the block, and then brake cleaner to ensure the area is dry. Install the new pump, using The Right Stuff on both sides of the gasket. Be very careful to spread it thin--you don't want clumps of it to get into the coolant system when you torque down the bolts. Tighten pump, skipping around to evenly press it in place. 105 inch-pounds of torque. Install pulley and tighten its three bolts to 250 inch-pounds. Reinstall serpentine belt (replace if its worn). Take the coolant you bought, mix up about the same amount as you drained out, and put into radiator through the radiator cap. You can run the engine, but if it gets hot it can boil out--be careful. Dispose of the used coolant as per local regulations: Some communities let you put it in the drain, some require you to drop it off somewhere. Check with local officials.

BTW: If you're around 100K miles and have never flushed and drained your coolant system, now would be a good time. But, be prepared to deal with several gallons of used coolant.

Again, the procedure is on the web with plenty of pictures and much better explanation than I provide above. You would do well to Google it.

 

Yes, it appears that the gasket leaking is common. My old pump looked fine, in fact. I still replaced it. That is why I say to ignore any directions about NOT using gasket sealer--hoping that lets the coolant system be good until the pump actually fails.

 

it doesn't get better with 2013 Jeeps,I own two, each has had to get a new water pump,bad bearings.

 

Yes a common problem for leaks also a problem when removing the screws too.Be careful when removing them breakage is common

 

Good point: PB B'laster is your friend. Give the area a couple squirts before you start to loosen the bolts, as well as the pump gasket material. Before reusing the old bolts, clean them up on a wire brush. Be sure to clean up well with brake cleaner afterward--you don't need PB B'laster on your serpentine belt!

 

Mark, thanks for the step by step. I have done several water pumps over the years but this one is getting done at the dealer tomorrow. I have the life time power train and also a 7/70 max care so between the two, let them deal with breaking bolts. I just wanted antifreeze information in case I couldn't get it fixed before I left. Thanks guys!

 

Highjacking this thread. Has anyone tried the non ethlene glycol Evans waterless antifreeze? It sure sound like a good idea...a bit pricey though. Not sure how it would affect warranty or if it's compatible based on the hoat or whatever, requirement