Do nuts that use cotter pins need tightening from time to time like lock nuts that cone stock or are they okay due to the cotter pin?

 

A connection that uses a cotter key cannot be torqued to a specific value, only to a general value- the nut almost always has to be turned forward or backward to install the cotter key....ANY time a cotter key shears off the ball stud is FROZEN in the joint and MUST be REPLACED. A locknut type connection that is assembled with new nuts does not require periodic retorquing. Any time a self-locking nut is retightened or removed it should be replaced. These are basic mechanic rules that should be followed as a matter of course.....

 

If locknuts do not require re-torqueing then how come everyone on the forum is always talking about tightening down tie rod and drag link connections after wheeling or if something feels loose..??

Also you are right about the cotter pin. I torqued it to 65 but then had to adjust it a bit to get the the cotter key lined up on my new tie rod ride ends. If I can not specify a torque value though, how do I know they are tight enough? Also what do you mean by the cotter key shearing off and the ball stud needing replacement? You mean the whole tie rod end?

 

Aircraft are full of cotter pinned nuts and bolts that get tightened to a specific torque, with an additional range for cotter pin hole alignment.
Aircraft are full of reused self locking nuts, as long as the prevailing torque to turn the nut is greater than a specified minimum value.

There are certain times an automotive manual will state to not reuse self locking nuts and some kinds of bolts (torque to yield bolts, for example).

For installation of the steering knuckle, the Jeep manual says:

1. Install the knuckle to the ball joint studs.
2. Install the upper ball joint nut and cotter pin. Tighten to
3. Install the lower ball joint nut and cotter pin. Tighten to

It leaves out the torque for some reason.

 

ronjenx is absolutely correct about aircraft fasteners- I was a 43151A/C aircraft mechanic in the air force many years ago. However your JK doesn't have wings....what this means is the grade of attachment hardware used on any auto product is much poorer than aircraft hardware- hence the recommended replacement. Any ball- stud type joint that is frozen will shear off a cotter key and the nut will immediately loosen. Normally when you make a turn the ball joint or tie rod end turns in its socket and all is well. When the joint is frozen or bound up the ball won't turn so the rod end (the hole end)will turn on the frozen stud. The surface of the nut bearing on the hole end (due to torque and friction) will cause the nut to turn with the hole end of the joint, shearing the cotter key and loosening the nut. I've had to repair this situation several times in my work career and every time it has been due to impact damage to the ball joint or tie rod end....NOT something to be concerned about upon daily operation.

 

In automotive front end applications, the castle nut has absolutely NOTHING to do with KEEPING the joint tight. The only purpose it serves is to tighten it up on initial assembly. The parts are actually held together by the taper of the stud and the hole it goes into. This is why it requires a puller to seperate front end linkage and ball joints. The nut can actually become looser than it was when installed and everything is just fine. Theoretically, you can remove the nuts on tapered fittings and still opreate, because the tapered "wedge" effect is what holds the joint together......although I certainly don't recommend it. LOL