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Driving tips for when to use 4hi vs 4lo? And the hot oil light?

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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 03:52 PM
  #21  
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Dirt and gravel is 2-wheel drive for me. Most of the time I'm in 4wd I'm in 4-Lo. If you can drive fast enough on a trail for 4-Hi to be useful then it's probably only a 2wd worthy road anyway.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 04:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Chamoru
Alot of good info. I didn't know about the sway disconnects and lockers only working in 4L. I guess that is why the front and rear locker lights were blinking. Will they come on steady in 4L. I will try it out just hesitant to mess with all the gadgets not knowing alot. I used to own a 97 Sport, 4" lift, on 33's. It didn't have anything fancy and I never had issues working the transfer case in and out of 4 wheel drive.
Man, I just said it above. Disconnects work in 4H, at least at low speeds.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 05:09 PM
  #23  
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I usually put mine just in 4hi for snowy/icy conditions,rolling slowly 5-10 mph. If it's bad enough driving I'm not going 70 mph anyway.4lo is tough to get into until you get the hang of it.Ive only used it a few times,mostly to get out of some deep sand or mud.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 05:16 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jeepdog59
I usually put mine just in 4hi for snowy/icy conditions,rolling slowly 5-10 mph. If it's bad enough driving I'm not going 70 mph anyway.4lo is tough to get into until you get the hang of it.Ive only used it a few times,mostly to get out of some deep sand or mud.
Its quite easy to go.into 4lo ?
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 12:11 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jsalbre
This is actually not correct. Even in two wheel drive the engine is turning both axles and drive shafts, it's just turning the front via the tires and pressure on the ground instead of the transfer case.

In an effort to prove this few years back I did a demonstration by running back-to-back drag strip runs in my old Jeep. One in 2hi and one in 4hi and the times came out practically identical. Several repeats of this test showed no change.

If you were running locking hubs and unlocked them in 2wd then you might see more "effective" power, but with always connected hubs there's no difference.



For the curious, times were pretty slow: 18.2@76mph (at 4545lbs), but that's about what I expected going in.
I understand how that would work on a dragstrip. Those always connected hubs are reffered to as unit bearings. Take it into the bush, and start adding torque loads with wheelspin, you will find a world with no power. 4LO.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 12:59 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jsalbre

This is actually not correct. Even in two wheel drive the engine is turning both axles and drive shafts, it's just turning the front via the tires and pressure on the ground instead of the transfer case.

In an effort to prove this few years back I did a demonstration by running back-to-back drag strip runs in my old Jeep. One in 2hi and one in 4hi and the times came out practically identical. Several repeats of this test showed no change.

If you were running locking hubs and unlocked them in 2wd then you might see more "effective" power, but with always connected hubs there's no difference.

For the curious, times were pretty slow: 18.2@76mph (at 4545lbs), but that's about what I expected going in.
Originally Posted by Blakspire

I understand how that would work on a dragstrip. Those always connected hubs are reffered to as unit bearings. Take it into the bush, and start adding torque loads with wheelspin, you will find a world with no power. 4LO.

Is there any accessory that allow for unlocking the hubs as in older models or not possible on the JKs?

Could help saving some gas on city and long highway drives.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 01:06 AM
  #27  
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There is a freehub kit built by SpynTec. Google SpynTec Jeep JK. From what I've heard/seen its a pretty solid kit.

Downsides, the bolt pattern changes from 5x5 to 5x5.5. So you would need to buy an adapter for wheels, and according to spyntec the rotors can be slotted and drilled.
They also cost $1,400.

The bolt pattern is the killer for me. Not a fan of spacers whatsoever.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 05:56 AM
  #28  
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Also running your jeep in 4 high on sand with tyre pressures down arround 15-22 psi with the traction control switched off will make a world of difference. Just hold the traction control button untill the digital disply says something like "traction control off" to turn it off.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 08:15 AM
  #29  
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Rule of thumb I've always lived by is to keep it in 2wd as long as possible. If you get stuck you can probably get out with 4hi. Ditto for 4lo.

Amazing how much stuff a properly setup 4x4 will do in 2wd.

However if you're in a definite potential traction lacking situation then it's time to move the lever for sure. 4hi and splashing across some mud is better than getting stuck and hoping 4lo or 4hi can get you out.

I generally reserve 4lo for any time I know for sure I'll need more slow speed control or traction. No need to use it while bumping along on a sandy two track or out in the woods.
Clawing over some rocks or out of a muddy rut? Sure.
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 05:40 PM
  #30  
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I read back through the post and noticed somone said use 4hi on pavement. This is not a good idea unless in snow/ice or really wet slippery roads.
The reason for this is that your front and rear wheels will turn at different speeds when turning because of the cut in that your rear wheels do. Which is why bigger 4x4s and trucks take corners wider.
This places a whole heap of pressure on your transfer case gears and gearbox.
You will also notice some bad turning and wheel slip arround corners.
If you have ever owned or looked under a full time 4 wheel drive you will notice that it has a centre diff between the front and rear diffs with the input being the transfer case(only 4hi-4lo).
This diff balances the ammount of power distributed between the front and rear diffs and combats this wheel slip arround corners.

If you check out the mercedies g wagon(i know it's a big difference to anything resembling a jeep) it features 3 diff locks. 1 rear locker, 1 front locker and a centre diff lock.
The reason you do not need a centre diff lock in a 4x4 with a transfer case is that (there is no diff to lock and that) it works as a locked diff same power front and rear.
This is why as mentioned above it causes alot af stress on your drive line.

Don't use 4hi or 4lo on pavement unless essential.

And if you let your tyres down to 20-25 everytime you head off road you will notice a softer ride and less tyre damage.

If you enguage 4hi or 4lo drop your pressures. 15-25 for rocks or mud. 12-20 for sand. You will be amazed how much softer the ride is.

Take your time cornering at pressures below18psi as you could roll a tyre off the rim.

It will also take some stress of your suspension and that means less you have to fork out in repairs and parts will wear out slower.

More beer money and more fuel money means more happy jeepers.

Reading back over this it's pretty long. I hope it is helpfull and not preachy.
I use these rules for my tracks in a 2010 rubi unlimited with stock all terrain wrangler tyres and only a 2 inch lift.
Cheers.
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