The other night I destroyed my clutch, the dealership wanted $1200 to fix it plus the $100 to look at it.
Long story short I ordered the clutch and we installed it ourselves. Everything is put back together and I'm able to shift gears and drive but I'm having a new issue with the clutch. When we put the clutch cylinder back in it full extended and leaked fluid everywhere. We removed it put it back in and refilled the fluid but the clutch is not working the way it should. I figured we need to bleed the line but have no idea. Does anyone know how to do this? It's a 2008 jeep wrangler Sahara 3.8L
Also with it fully extended during the install is there a possibility that we broke the cylinder?

 

I recently did a clutch install too, I did not have any issues. But a buddy just did his and said bleeding the slave cylinder took an hour after having a similar leak issue. You may want to try re-bleeding them.

 

I have read on this forum that there is a tiny little rubber O-ring that often falls out and gets lost when the line is disconnected from the clutch slave cylinder during removal/replacement, causing the line to leak afterwards when reconnected. Apparantly this tiny little O-ring isn't available for sale seperately and is an unusual size/thickness so it is hard to source elsewhere, resulting in the requirement of a new slave cylinder kit to be purchased which included this part (apparantly the kits are around the $80 mark from US dealers).

As these slave cylinders are known to fail prematurely anyway, it mightn't be a bad idea to put a new one in seeing as you've just gone to all the trouble of replacing the clutch itself. I hope this helps...

 

Do you guys know the correct way to bleed the clutch?
I found a link online telling me to remove the dust cap, turn the nipple 1/4 turn and press the peddle to the floor and that this should bleed the line but it didn't bleed out. Any ideas?

 

[QUOTE="JRFire1317"]Do you guys know the correct way to bleed the clutch?
I found a link online telling me to remove the dust cap, turn the nipple 1/4 turn and press the peddle to the floor and that this should bleed the line but it didn't bleed out.

You can either remove the dust cap on the master cylinder and crack the bleeder valve on the slave and just let it sit and gravity bleed till fluid comes out and tighten everything back up.
Or open the dust cover on the master cylinder have some one pump the clutch and hold it while you crack the bleeder on the slave till air and or fluid comes out, tighten the bleeder and have your friend pump the clutch again and repeat until nothing but fluid comes out....fill up any fluid lost in the master cylinder and you should be good.
But if its still leaking I would fuss the I ring is gone or destroyed like the previous posts state

 

Just replaced master clutch cylinder due to leaks coming into the driver floor board. Your reservoir for your brakes is also for your clutch. Blead your clutch and brakes and you are good!!

 

Where is the master cylinder located?
The leak stopped once we removed the clutch cylinder and re-installed but like I said the clutch isn't working. We traced the clutch back the the break reservoir and filled that up, breaks work fine.
When I get home I will try these steps

 

The breaks and clutch share the same master cylinder.

 

Sweet ill grab a buddy after work and try this, if it doesn't bleed out what should be my next step?
Replace the clutch cylinder?

 

Yeah the slave cylinders in these aren't the best...but odds are either you'll have fluid leaking out or it will work fine...assuming you've got air in there and that's the problem...if not replacing the slave should do the trick.
Edit..and just make sure your buddy doesn't let the clutch out until you tighten the bleeder valve back up, or you'll just suck more air into the line....pump and hold...crack bleeder till air/fluid come out...tighten bleeder valve and pump and hold repeat until only fluid comes out..top off master cylinder..hopefully done!