On your pinion bearing- I apply supplemental RTV (Mopar orange) to the seal upon installation. Further, I put RTV on splined area of the yoke. The nut is supposed to get red loctite but I've transitioned to orange which is supposed to be the same strength but without heat required for removal.

Your wheel bearings- I've never had issues with them being pre-packed, the fluid usually gets in there and washes out/ lubricates the bearings pretty quickly. Are you sure you've got enough fluid to get thrust out into the tubes to lube the bearings?

 

Regarding the axle bearing, suggest jacking it up and spinning the wheels by hand to try and narrow down the source of the noise.

 

In regards to the pinion seal leak, I plan on putting the car back on the lift and seeing where it is leaking from by removing the yoke again. I totally forgot to check the pinion bearing while it was up, hopefully that's not the issue though. I'm wondering if the lack of RTV on the splines is the culprit. Didn't think about that until you brought it up.

In regards to the rear wheel bearing, I refilled the differential after the work was done, and know fluid is at the proper level. As I need to remove all the brake components for determining preload, I may just pull the suspect axel and see if I can tell anything funky.

I will keep the updates comming.

So would lack of RTV on the yoke splines actually cause the leak?

 

I don't know that the lack of RTV would cause the leak (didn't see any on my factory install) but it seems every video I see says that you've got to put RTV in the splines to prevent that leeching up and out. As I noted, I also did an extra bead where the seal goes into the housing as that's where my previous leak was, but it was a pronounced trail down the tail of the housing to the bottom.

 

Everytime I've removed a pinion flange or yoke, the tolerance between the pinion spines and the splines on the flange/yoke have been really tight, to the point it takes a lot of effort to remove the yoke and tap it back on. In that situation I think it would take a decent bit of time for oil to work its way up and out if it could or was going to. I watch a lot of videos though where someone just plops new yoke on like it's nothing at all. Slide it on and put the nut back on. My experiences have never been that easy. In those cases I could see oil working its way up and out a bit easier at the splines. I don't usually RTV the splines, but I do put RTV on the washer.