Since it takes forever to get an answer on the sticky threads, I tohught I would ask the question here.

See I melted my evap canister when I installed my own exhaust last year. I just put a new exhaust (Flowmaster) on and moved it out of the way of the canister. I bought a new canister ($38 I think I should start selling them looking at the prices that people have paid) from the dealer and installed it. But the dash still says GASCAP and the engine light is still on. I went to two dealers to have them clear the lights, and they both want to charge me $87 because I'm out of warranty. $87 to turn a light off??? And I did all the repairs myself. HELP!!!

After reading this thread, I'm going to try disconnecting the battery... unless someone hits me back with a better idea.

Thanks for the help. This website is awesome in terms of knowledge.

 

Not sure its the same procedure, but the change oil light kept flashing after I did the first oil change. I was told to turn the key to on, press and hold the accellarator three times, then thake the key out. All good after that....

 

If you have an Autozone nearby, they will check the trouble codes for free and will either reset them or allow you to reset them. My local store makes me push the button to clear the codes so that they aren't responsible in case of a real problem.

 

Thanks for the help. I did the battery disconnect and it seems to have worked. I did it yesterday on my lunch break and drove home without it coming back on. Today I'm riding my motorcycle so I won't know if it is a permanent fix until I drive it again.

I did hear about the Autozone tip as well. I will try that if it comes back.

Thanks again.

 

x2

I went to a local mechanic that my mother uses all the time.
He checked and cleared them for free.

 

Ok - The battery disconnect thing didn't work... well it worked for a few days but hten it came back. The first time I disconnected it for approx 2 minutes. The second time I disconnected it for approx 40 minutes. The only difference was the engine light came on faster the second time.

I'll try the autozone thing next I guess. I'm going to do anything before I go back and give the stealership $90 to turn it off.

 

Have you considered that you may still have a problem in the system? Apparently, it can be pretty finicky. There's another thread here where someone use the Woods evaporative cannister relocation kit and botched the install of a seal. He kept getting dash lights about it until he figured out what was wrong.

 

For the same money that the dealer charges to clear your code you can order online, a code reader, do it yourself and have the code reader for future use.

I'ver had one for a couple of years. It's good for all vehicles with OBD II diagnostics. That's all vehicles sold in America since 1996.

It's good to be able to go to a repair shop and tell them what the code number is and what it means. (That info is in the book that came with mine).

It may make them think twice about BSing you.

 

You know, now that you say this... that one connector was a little tricky and I never got the warm fuzzy that it was connected right. I'll climb under there again today and play with it a little.

Thanks