So I am at 22K and my rears are almost done. I read WOL's write up and I am fairly sure I can tackle this myself but I have a few questions..

1. On Napa I see these two pads listed for a 2008 Wrangler. Which should I get? Also are brake pads always that cheap? It lists $50 for a set of four?

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...ic+Safety+Stop

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...+Ultra+Premium

2. WOL says to install the brakes with the sounder clips in a certain location. How can you tell which pads have the sounder clips?

3. Do I need to mess with my brake fluid as well? I would like to avoid it if possible as I don't feel comfortable bleeding the brakes.

4. Should I replace rotors as well and if so how do they come off? Once the brake calipers are off do the rotors just slide off?

Thanks in advance! Love the knowledge on this site!

 

1. On Napa I see these two pads listed for a 2008 Wrangler. Which should I get? Also are brake pads always that cheap? It lists $50 for a set of four?

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...ic+Safety+Stop

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...+Ultra+Premium

I think either would work just fine, I would most likely go with the cheaper for the rear

2. WOL says to install the brakes with the sounder clips in a certain location. How can you tell which pads have the sounder clips?

Its usually best to put these clips on the inside or piston side of the caliper.

3. Do I need to mess with my brake fluid as well? I would like to avoid it if possible as I don't feel comfortable bleeding the brakes.

You shouldn't need to unless someone topped it off. When you compress the pistons in the calipers back in that fluid will go back into the reservoir. Take the cap off the reservoir and keep an eye on it while you compress them in so it doesn't overflow.

4. Should I replace rotors as well and if so how do they come off? Once the brake calipers are off do the rotors just slide off?

I would not replace them if they are not deeply scoured or gouged. To take them off you will have to release the tension on the parking brake. This can be difficult if you haven't done it yet.

 

Damn all that. I'd get um from Autozone. Their best pads have a lifetime warranty. Just keep takin um the old pads and get new ones for free.

 

ID put a can of some kind under the master cylinder when you push the calipers back .
Just remember, after the brakes are in, to start the engine and pump the brakes several times to reset the rear calipers before driving.
Otherwise, it should be a cake walk.

 

Where is the master cylinder and why is it nessecary to put a can under there?

 

Driver side, close to the firewall, where you add brake fluid. Put a can under there to catch brake fluid that will be pushed out of the reservior when you compress the brake plungers that push your pads. You'll have to compress these to get your new pads on. A c-clamp works good to compress them, either a 4 0r 5in is good.

 

So I assume I should do this with the cap off the reservoir?

 

I do. If not it cause brake fluid to push out anyway.

 

I should add that I bleed my brakes whenever I do anything to the brakes on the jk. I have done this before on other vehicles without a problem and not bleed the brakes. Just reassurance I guess.

 

Better to pull the cap and remove some fluid with a turkey baster or similar. The stuff can take paint off and there's no real reason to just let it overflow and drip down.

This should only be necessary if someone added fluid since the brakes were last replaced (or new).

I'll add that I've not done brake pads on my JK yet, so it is possible there's something unique to the JK brake system vs. the other car, truck, and motorcycle brakes I've done over the past twenty-something years.

Bleeding the brakes is a good idea. I didn't see anything about brake fluid in the owners manual maintenance schedule but have had other vehicles with a recommended 24-month/24,000mile brake fluid replacement schedule. For some reason I paid more attention to that on motorcycles than on four-wheel vehicles.