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Stock JK TechBulletin board forum regarding issues with OE (original equipment) components of the Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) such as factory suspension parts, engine, transmission, body parts, interior fixtures and the on-board computer.
There are two cam position sensors one on each bank at the back near the firewall. I would have also replaced the Crank position sensor.
Now the new problem. There is an extended warranty on the heads of 2011-2013 JK Wranglers due to excessive wear. This sounds a lot like your issued soup so if you are within the time limit of 10 years and milage of 150,000 miles this should be covered. But I don't know if you can manage to get a new engine out of this even though it sounds like the head failure precipitated the destruction of the entire motor.
There are two cam position sensors one on each bank at the back near the firewall. I would have also replaced the Crank position sensor.
Now the new problem. There is an extended warranty on the heads of 2011-2013 JK Wranglers due to excessive wear. This sounds a lot like your issued soup so if you are within the time limit of 10 years and milage of 150,000 miles this should be covered. But I don't know if you can manage to get a new engine out of this even though it sounds like the head failure precipitated the destruction of the entire motor.
Make sure you have an American model. I have a used Canadian 2012 Arctic Edition purchased in Butte, MT and was told it does not qualify even though it has the head issue. ;(
Had the same problem, Found broken wires on the Bank 1 Cam sensor plug. There is a $75 kit from Mopar to replace this "known" issue from a too short wiring harness.
Greetings! Purchased my 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara used in 2018. It had 72,000 miles and looked in perfect condition. Checked Carfax and VIN online without any reports found. Had auxiliary breaking system installed to dinghy tow behind the RV ($3.6K). 20K miles later check engine light comes on with Code P0303 (#3 Cylinder misfire). Dealer quoted almost $7K from just looking at the code! Drove it to another facility that specializes in Jeeps, (not a dealership). They replaced the #3 Ignition Coil and when the problem remained said the passenger side head needed to be machined. Quoted $2700. The machine shop said it couldn't be machined and needed to be replaced. They also said that during head installation they had to replace the Cam Sensor. It was 5 weeks before I got the vehicle back! On the way home, less than 6 miles away, check engine light came back on. Now the code is P0394 CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 'B' CIRCUIT INTERMITTENT BANK 2. Back to the facility. They replaced the "pigtail"?! I asked if that was their name for the electrical engine harness. The answer was "I guess"! Also said they test drove it over 100 miles! Same code on my way home in less than 2 miles. Returned. Harness was again replaced and it took 2 days. Code back again within 2 miles. Returned. Had also noticed that the front of the engine area around the radiator wasn't properly installed and the bolts holding the air hose were missing. Pointed this out to the Service Manager. 2 more days. Picking it up noticed that the bolts were in place but the radiator was still not installed flush to its original position. I can probably live with this issue but the code came back on 2 miles from the house. Code only happens during harder acceleration, like taking off from a traffic light or trying to pass on a 2 lane road. When code comes on vehicle immediately goes into Limp Mode. Stop and turn engine off. Restart and limp mode goes away but the check engine light stays on! Contacted Jeep but they said that extended warranty ran out in 2019. I wonder why I wasn't informed that my vehicle could have this issue at time of purchase and no general caveat information available on this problem to be found anywhere unless the issue presents itself! OMG just want to drive it to Avon Park and leave it at the bombing range but have too much invested to just give up. Going back to service tomorrow (Monday). Any input much appreciated!
Benton did you look at this service bulletin? Stealership thought this was what may be causing my issues but all looked good after they took everything apart ($270) so now they believe it is the intake cam phaser at bank 1 which is a $500 fix. I have not yet done this since my mechanic doesn't have the tools and said it can only be done through dealer....
bolts only turned slightly and there has been no change in functionality. This Jeep sucks and I’m sick of spending money on a problem that doesn’t seem to have any resolution. I miss my YJ.
I did figure out that if I put the Heep in manual mode on the highway, it won’t go into limp mode when the Jeep kicks the traction control off. The cruise control does die with it but I don’t have to pull over.
the Jeep also demands to tel me is have an eval leak. Smoke test has been done finding nothing and all sensors and the gas cap have been replaced but it still states it is leaking.
It’s been some time since you posted this. I’d love to know if you ever found the solution. I’m having the exact same issue with my 2013. No one is able to figure it out. Please let me know.
My TCS was tripped by the rear ABS wheel sensors that were bad. Unfortunately I didn't know it because ABS sensors don't always trip a code but they did trip the TCS on bumps at highway speeds. Later I found that many of the code readers do not pick up ABS codes. I gave up and took it my non dealer Jeep shop and he told me what I should try to fix it (he was too busy to deal with it for a few weeks). He said replace the rear ABS wheel sensors which are very easy to replace. I replaced the rear ABS sensors ($29 USD total) and most of my other TCS problems went away. Why the rear sensors? They are easy to replace. They are not sealed like the front ABS sensors so the rear fail more since they are easily damaged or covered in muck.
My TCS was tripped by the rear ABS wheel sensors that were bad. Unfortunately I didn't know it because ABS sensors don't always trip a code but they did trip the TCS on bumps at highway speeds. Later I found that many of the code readers do not pick up ABS codes. I gave up and took it my non dealer Jeep shop and he told me what I should try to fix it (he was too busy to deal with it for a few weeks). He said replace the rear ABS wheel sensors which are very easy to replace. I replaced the rear ABS sensors ($29 USD total) and most of my other TCS problems went away. Why the rear sensors? They are easy to replace. They are not sealed like the front ABS sensors so the rear fail more since they are easily damaged or covered in muck.
Chances are good that cleaning the rear sensors, rather than replacing, will fix that sort of problem.
My wife called last week letting me know that the ABS/Traction Control light came on, This could be several things. For one, the front end/steering needed to be replaced and we did so. Another symptom could be that the rear wheel could have hit a bump thus losing control. Then let's not forget that one or all of the ABS/Speed sensors could be going bad. Some of these sensors are easy to get to and replace while others are a bit more difficult.
As others have said, a simple cleaning of the battery, battery cables and even checking the grounds could save one a lot of time, repair cost and just making sure the battery has been replaced with something other than the factory version. A typical lifespan of a factory battery is 2 3/4 years.
Not taking any chances, I ordered a full set of the ABS/Speed sensors from rockauto. As we were all set to replace all the sensors, then after installing a new metalcloak drag link, tie rod, track bar etc.. we never got the warning light again. But I'll hold onto those sensors just incase.
Lastly, the other day our jeep went into limp mode.. I nearly panicked, but realized it wasn't in limp mode at all. Seems while I was shifting from reverse into drive, I tapped the shifter left or right (as it's an automatic) and the jeep got caught up in trying to use the manual shift option. So next time (if you drive an automatic) be mindful of how you shift from reverse to drive without tapping the shifter left or right or your jeeps dash will light up like a xmas tree.
My TCS was tripped by the rear ABS wheel sensors that were bad. Unfortunately I didn't know it because ABS sensors don't always trip a code but they did trip the TCS on bumps at highway speeds. Later I found that many of the code readers do not pick up ABS codes. I gave up and took it my non dealer Jeep shop and he told me what I should try to fix it (he was too busy to deal with it for a few weeks). He said replace the rear ABS wheel sensors which are very easy to replace. I replaced the rear ABS sensors ($29 USD total) and most of my other TCS problems went away. Why the rear sensors? They are easy to replace. They are not sealed like the front ABS sensors so the rear fail more since they are easily damaged or covered in muck.
This issue I have is very odd. I can drive highway speeds, but once that RPM reaches and holds around 3000 or more it's only a matter of times before it kicks the TCS off. I've managed to trick the limp mode though. If I'm on the highway, I put the jeep in manual shift mode. When it does kick, you can hear a noticeable lul as if the jeep is attempting to disengage, but because its in manual mode, I get my power back. The engine light comes on and the TCS light comes on as well. The main things that change are: No Cruise Control and if I let off the accelerator it hesitates for a moment before responding when I push the accelerator again. I have to keep constant equal pressure on the gas pedal. The ABS light never comes on at all, and the only readings I get are, P2638 Torque Management Feedback Signal A Range/Perf, P0344 Camshaft Pos Sens A. I once got C123C Dynamics Sensor Mounting/Installation Performance, but it never came back.
08-27-2020, 06:39 PM
Code P0394
