Mike-5

Howdy all.

I will be getting a new jeep in the next few months, first new vehicle in 27 years. I am struggling with the thought of the “best” lubricants to use once the break-in period is finished. Again, I seek the experience and wisdom of the forum.

Background. I am a retired soldier, working in electronics and electrical for a power company. I am not a mechanic, and I have NEVER slept in a holiday Inn. I can turn wrenches and read a manual, but it isn’t my idea of FUN. We are leaning toward a JKU-Rubicon Hard Rock so I can avoid things like Axle upgrades etc. But I mostly do my own periodic maintenance. I trust my work, I have been screwed by the “30 min oil change” store. They stripped the drain plug, stuffed it in with Teflon tape, then weeks later when it fell out it wasn’t their fault…. Right!

I have read some information in the forums, but it seems like there was a lot of opinion and not much fact to back it up. And it was mostly engine oil, nothing found about transfer case at all so far.

FIRST – what is considered the break-in period for engine, transmission, transfer, and axles? It may all be in the owners manual, but I do not have an owners manual. Yet.

#1. ENGINE. I really believe in Synthetics here. The last new vehicle I have owned was a 1988 Dodge mini-van. After about 5k miles break-in, I switched to Mobile-1 SAE 10W40. I kept that vehicle for 18 years and 333k miles before I became afraid to take it outside the city limits. I sold it, and it lived another 2 years before I lost track of it. We now have a Ford E-350 1-ton that has been on Mobile-1 for over 200k miles, still running perfect. But I am open to discussion.

#2. 5-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. Although I had considered it, I have never run a synthetic lubricant in any automatic transmission. I have no experience – so no opinion formed.

#3. TRANSFER CASE. I will have the Rock Track 4:1 transfer. I have never owned an american vehicle with a transfer case - I have no experience – so no opinion formed.

#4. DANA D-44 AXLES. I have heard via word of mouth locally, DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC lubricants in my axles. It was “SAID” that synthetic lubricants do not remove heat away from the axles like Petroleum-based lubricants will. It was also said that axles using synthetics are prone to premature failures. TRUTH, or BULL$HIT?

#5. Chassis Grease? I do not know if there are even grease fittings on the ball-joints, U-joints, and suspension points. But if there are, what is the “BEST” lubricant?


??? #1. 3.6L Penta-Star ENGINE – Synthetic? Weight? Brand? Why?

??? #2. 5-SPEED AUTOMATIC – Synthetic or Petroleum Based? Brand? Why?

??? #3. TRANSFER CASE - Synthetic or Petroleum Based? Weight? Brand? Why?

??? #4. DANA D-44 AXLES - Synthetic or Petroleum Based? Weight? Brand? Why?

??? #5. CHASSIS GREASE – Needed? Synthetic or Petroleum Based? Weight? Brand? Why?


I keep my vehicles a long time. A VERY LONG TIME! Within reason, lubricant price is secondary to pereformance. I truly look forward to learning from your experience and wisdon, often hard-learned. Thanks much.

Mike-5, El Paso, Texas.

tjkamp

Sorry in advance for the long post.

There are many opinions about full synthetics. There are also many myths. I have heard a lot of crazy opinions and myths on this forum and others especially when it comes to running full synthetics. I run full synthetics in everything I have swapped fluids in.

I could be wrong, but from what I have seen, most of the fluids from the factory are either full or blended.

Judging by the long interval on the oil change (I change mine every 5,000, but only reset the warning light every other time, and it usually comes on right around the 9,500 mark) I would say the engine oil from the factory is a full synthetic, I could be wrong. I am fairly certain that the ATF +4 in the transfer case is full synthetic, not sure if that is what they put in the auto tranny as well but my guess would be yes.

I would do my research, on this matter at least, through a different avenue, get on Google and see what you pull up. Try to get some numbers and fact based testing rather than opinions.

That said, I run Royal Purple in everything, all of their fluids meet or exceed the Chrysler requirements (for the engine oil go for the API approved verity), and maybe it is just brand loyalty, but I like their stuff the best. I doubt you will actually notice in difference in performance, or operating temperatures, especially if you are changing new guilds with new fluids (there are several videos online, including Hot Rod Magazine, showing temperature comparisons between old worn out fluids and new fresh fluids, give me a break!) but with fluids it is really all about longevity anyway, not HP and performance.

Hope this helps.

Happy Jeeping!

tjkamp

1: Pentastar 3.6: Royal purple 5W20 (API approved variety) it is ok to go full synthetic right away, just a myth.

2: 6 speed Manual: Royal Purple Syncro-Max (sorry no auto tranny here).

3: Transfer Case: Royal Purple Max ATF

444 Axels: Royal Purple 75W90 (no additive needed for any axels limited slip or otherwise when running full synthetic) synthetics are fine in axels just another myth.

5: Chassis Grease: none of the factory components in the JK are grease able/serviceable, they are all 100% sealed units.

jeepmojo

that synthetic is just a waste of money and I believe they actually don't lubricate properly (my opinion)
don't really care what other put in . dino oil in Harleys too 290,000 miles on a hd with out tear down isn't bad

but only if you change engine every 3000

webejeepin

These threads always have two sides (opinions) and personal preference.

With my 08 I read the capacities and fluid types in my owners book as a base line.

Jeep now has 162,000KM on the clock and is a DD of 700km a week every week.

I use Dino in the 3.8L motor, Mopar filters. Oil level is CHECKED EVERY SUNDAY with a cold motor on level ground. Every 5,000kms I change the oil myself.

Mopar ATF+4 in my auto trans (42RLE) transferase and power steering. (It's synthetic)

Front D30 gets 80 W 90 Dino and the rear D44 with LSD gets Royal purple 75 W 140

Regular chassis lube on Synergy ball joints.

Mopar DOT 3 for the breaks.

I think most important is regular PM to keep all lubricants from going past their service life.

And for the love of all things good....check your motor oil once a week!

Hope this helps the OP and I respect your service to your country!