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JK Running to hot?

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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 04:32 PM
  #11  
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No not normal, if you haven't in a while, I would flush it regardless of the scheduled fluid change.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 03:18 PM
  #12  
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Yea the fan seams to run, radiator isn't new just the cap for it, that was the only thing replaced. Its cooler than it was before I took it in but still running hot. Radiator was full and seamed to cycle coolant, no air pockets when burping, so its scheduled for Friday to have a more comprehensive diagnostic done on it. They did a pressure test and it passed that, but I think it was a quick check rather than the overnight check. I'd need some more tools and test equipment to further diagnose it on my end and its new to me so back in it goes. Thanks for the replies everyone.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 06:30 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by falcon1620
Yea the fan seams to run, radiator isn't new just the cap for it, that was the only thing replaced. Its cooler than it was before I took it in but still running hot. Radiator was full and seamed to cycle coolant, no air pockets when burping, so its scheduled for Friday to have a more comprehensive diagnostic done on it. They did a pressure test and it passed that, but I think it was a quick check rather than the overnight check. I'd need some more tools and test equipment to further diagnose it on my end and its new to me so back in it goes. Thanks for the replies everyone.
Have you actually taken the temperature. I have not seen what the runinng temperature actually are. You could have an issue with the sensor or the temperature guage.

Ed
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 06:35 PM
  #14  
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If I remember right for it to be in the middle it's a range from 195-220 degrees the fan comes on at 215ish. I would defiantly check your t-stat. I'll do more digging to verify my numbers are correct.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 08:22 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by kfast24
If I remember right for it to be in the middle it's a range from 195-220 degrees the fan comes on at 215ish. I would defiantly check your t-stat. I'll do more digging to verify my numbers are correct.
Fan seams to come on at 1/2 way point and toggles off and on if you let it idle. Under load like with AC on or driving up hills it will start to heat up and fan really kicks into gear to get it cooled down but it will hang around that 3/4 mark at that point. New cap is a pretty big improvement, but yea still something going on there. It gets really warm under certain reproducible conditions and doesn't really seam to recover well. Maybe an internal blockage on the radiator? Now that its pressurized it is cooler than it was, but since it could be a sticky t-stat or faulty sensor having everything kick in to late I'll let the tech take another crack at it. Looks like I'll just have to have a vintage Suzuki weekend and enjoy my bike instead of the Jeep. Speaking of which I should check my battery and make sure that is still good to go before I get shuttled back to a dead bike LOL. I'd be tearing into it and replacing stuff at this point and thats what the warranty is for right? Might as well use that up while I have it. I am thinking that maybe this problem is why it got traded in? Dang thing overheats trade it! its a 2011 with 14k 13,7xxx when I bought it. Shop called today and firmed up my appointment date to this Friday and said they would be checking out a few more things on it when it goes back in. Silly Jeep your still under warranty!

Edit: The consensus from the JK owners at work and here seem to be bring it on back in.

Last edited by falcon1620; Jul 15, 2015 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 08:34 PM
  #16  
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I agree with letting the warranty take care of it, but if they find nothing, and have not pulled the radiator to look at the radiator and A/C fins in between, have them do so. It's common to have mud in there that won't flush from the front or from the engine bay.

Last edited by ronjenx; Jul 15, 2015 at 08:55 PM.
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 03:34 PM
  #17  
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So they said they could only get it up to 220 max and said It looked OK so I will be getting it back. I'll kind of monitor it here and make sure it hovers around the 220 mark, and I will be able to record them onto a PC here with my ODB2 scan tool connected when I get that in so that's what I'll try. I'll also go see if they cleaned up the rad or not any further and just may go find a spot to just get that taken care of. 3 out of 7 trips it got to the 3/4ths point, so maybe I just need to wait and see if something more serious happens, I might ask some one else around here to take another look too. With some ODB2 monitoring next week or so I'll be able to look into it more, and your temp range 195-220 range is pretty dead on, Thanks! :P Now I've got a tool coming and a rage to monitor, whoop.

Last edited by falcon1620; Jul 17, 2015 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 09:31 PM
  #18  
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Edit: Back at the shop today was hot when dropped off, so they see that its too hot. Hopefully they will be able to find an issue this time. Nice hot day out did the trick.

Last edited by falcon1620; Jul 23, 2015 at 10:45 AM.
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Old Jul 24, 2015 | 06:40 AM
  #19  
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What color coolant was in it when you got it? If it was the neon green conventional stuff, it isn't the specified coolant for it. That could be part of the problem but not all of it.
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Old Jul 24, 2015 | 05:37 PM
  #20  
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Found the issue with it, radiator. Needs to be replaced, internal damage... Has Mopar coolant (orange) but who knows when that was added or if someone mixed stuff. Maybe able to flush it but they said that a new one is a better solution. We will see what the dealer says where I bought it 3 weeks ago. They actually did some teardown on it and then suggested that I take it back in where I got it. They tried flushing it and it didn't really help so at least I know whats going on. I'll try the I just bought this please help approach with the dealer later this week, and see how that goes.
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