Anyone have any info or opinions when the Front locker on a 2015 Rubicon is slow to release. So far, once it did not and required diving off the Trail in Moab and taking it to Dixie 4 wheel drive to get unlocked. (diff cover had to come off to do it).

 

You can usually get a screwdriver in the fill hole to manually move the ring over to unlock it. Have you regeared that axle? If so, maybe just clean the entire diff out really good with brake cleaner. After regears a lot of times you'll get some fine metal in that locker. The real issue is that there's a little wave spring in there that separates the dog clutch once the magnet is turned off, and that is what actually disengages the locker. It's not a replaceable part either. Most people have more common issue of the locker not engaging which is a bit of an easier fix with a new actuating magnet. I had a rear locker crap out. Started out slowly taking longer and longer to disengage. Eventually it just stopped disengaging completely and I'd have to pry it apart every time.

If you are not completely up to speed on how that locker works, search up ronjenx locker study and you'll see one disassembled and get a better idea what is actually going on.

 

Thank You for your Reply.

My lockers are stock. The front was consistently slow to disengage. I thought that just the way my Jeep did it. Until it didn't. The Screw driver method at the Dixie 4wd shop in Moab didn't work. Milt open up the diff and got it to work consistently both with the Diff cover off and after reassembly, while it was on his property. The next day I had been trying not to use it, but we got to a big waterfall on Steel Bender and had to use it. Again it took long enough to disengage that I thought I was again in a major problem when its time to hit the pavement. Based on your post my gut tells me that its that spring that may have started out substandard and gotten weaker over time. Replacement of the Carrier and Bearing is what Jeep now says is likely as that is what was required in the past. Spoke to Chrysler since my post and they will assess after a diagnosis session on the Jeep Monday, and then make a decision on whether they will pitch in on the cost as my 5yr warranty ran out this past June. Thanks again for your reply, I'm gonna check out that locker study.

5right

 

Oddly enough, when my rear finally decided that was that, I was in Moab....2 years ago. I got it unlocked for the drive back to Fort Worth. Once home I disassembled everything and I got the locker functioning perfectly fine on the workbench. Put it back in and it was working fine while everything was still off. As soon as I had load on it and the jeep was rollin...nope. I would suggest to you that you're much better off replacing with an Eaton 4-pin or Arb rather than another 2-pin rubi locker. I highly doubt Chrysler is going to help you out, and the insult to injury will be that when they tell you they're not going to, they're also going to hit you with a diagnostics bill (just my expectation).

Be happy it was the front and not rear. That bad news for you is if it ever happens in the rear, the only 32-spline locker you're going to find is yet another factory rubi locker. Everything else will be 35-spline and require some new axle shafts as well.

 

I'm going in today for Jeep to open it up and diagnose the problem. Depending on the results they have indicated a possibility of some relief on some or all the cost of repair. If they tell me it doesn't need to be replaced, I'll likely look into your recommendation of the Eaton 4 pin. I'll let you know.

 

Y, I'm definitely interested to hear what the outcome is. Someone recently had chewed up gears and that dealer replaced the entire axle assembly . When it comes to installing gears, which is what they have to do to replace that locker, I think a plug and play axle starts to look easier to them. Anyhow, best of luck for a positive outcome.