Lug nuts creaking/popping/snapping. Why?
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 1
From: Attleboro, MA
Thanks guys. Appreciate all the input 
I've understood that the factory studs have a metallic coating that acts as the anti-seize. (that galvanized-like look they have). I've heard both sides where some people always anti-seize, and others don't. One of the things on the table is whether or not that factory coating has worn off on me.
Regarding the seats of the lugs and wheels. I was in a big rush when rotating tires the other day, but did take note of very shiny mating surfaces. I didn't recall seeing that in the past. I did later wonder if there was galling going on. I am tending to think this is the most likely cause.
I have had a couple of the chrome caps come off on me.. and this sticking and popping is not that unfortunately. It's violent enough to sting your hands through gloves when removing the lug nuts with the factory wrench.
As far as overtightening goes, I admit I don't use a torque wrench, but I have in the past and I think I do ok with the factory wrench. It is on my list to pick up a large enough torque wrench.
Next time I'll have any time to dig into it will probably be the weekend. Based on input so far, I'll be looking to:
1) Clean studs w/wire brush. Ensure lug nut threads are clean.
2) Ensure lugs can easily be installed the full length of the studs - or as much as the caps allow.
3) Check the mating surfaces of lugs to wheels. Check for galling/debris/corrosion.
I've got another set of factory wheels in the back of the garage. If it comes down to it, I can try mounting one or two up to see if that makes any difference.
I'll keep you all posted...
I've understood that the factory studs have a metallic coating that acts as the anti-seize. (that galvanized-like look they have). I've heard both sides where some people always anti-seize, and others don't. One of the things on the table is whether or not that factory coating has worn off on me.
Regarding the seats of the lugs and wheels. I was in a big rush when rotating tires the other day, but did take note of very shiny mating surfaces. I didn't recall seeing that in the past. I did later wonder if there was galling going on. I am tending to think this is the most likely cause.
I have had a couple of the chrome caps come off on me.. and this sticking and popping is not that unfortunately. It's violent enough to sting your hands through gloves when removing the lug nuts with the factory wrench.
As far as overtightening goes, I admit I don't use a torque wrench, but I have in the past and I think I do ok with the factory wrench. It is on my list to pick up a large enough torque wrench.
Next time I'll have any time to dig into it will probably be the weekend. Based on input so far, I'll be looking to:
1) Clean studs w/wire brush. Ensure lug nut threads are clean.
2) Ensure lugs can easily be installed the full length of the studs - or as much as the caps allow.
3) Check the mating surfaces of lugs to wheels. Check for galling/debris/corrosion.
I've got another set of factory wheels in the back of the garage. If it comes down to it, I can try mounting one or two up to see if that makes any difference.
I'll keep you all posted...
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 2
From: Parker, Colorado
Harbor Freight has Pittsburg brand torque wrenches that are affordable. I have a 75-150 ft-lb and with light use it specs as accurate as my Snap-On wrenches when calibrated every year. I'm not a meat-head by any means but I can easily over torque the lug nuts with the stock lug wrench.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,907
Likes: 185
From: Maine
Harbor Freight has Pittsburg brand torque wrenches that are affordable. I have a 75-150 ft-lb and with light use it specs as accurate as my Snap-On wrenches when calibrated every year. I'm not a meat-head by any means but I can easily over torque the lug nuts with the stock lug wrench.
Torquing a lubed lug nut to the dry torque specification, will greatly increase the tensile load on the stud.
It's equivalent to over-torquing.