Uuuugggghhhhh camshaft position sensors.... what a nightmare.

From working on mine, those codes usually are caused from something else other than the sensors. They seem to be indicator the can lead to the end result after some digging. Granted, mine has far more mileage than yours, hopefully you wont have to go through as much as mine needed.

I too had gone through replacing cam and crank sensors. resharp001 is 100% correct, go with OEM on sensors. I bought one aftermarket crank sensor that was not working right away.

The problem with those cam codes is that they can be a result of a myriad of things. You had one sensor replaced after a swap from side to side and codes cleared for a while. You have swapped them (with the new replacement) and the problem remains on the same bank.

If the wiring checks out, the the problem is somewhere else. Wiring would be first on my hit list. It is a little work to rule it out.

I never did check the sensor voltage on mine, but the positions of the cams was all over the place according to my computer. This with with new sensors and timing set installed. I replaced a cam and phaser (along with lifters) and the code persisted. The end result was a shifted reluctor wheel which I only found through a lot of digging and the info posted by others. I actually had 2 of them which was not too surprising. Hopefully this is not the case with yours.

Through some research sensors, cams and phasers could be an issue, but another could be lurking. If the VVT solenoids are working it could be something else. The oil galley bolts may be loose or have worked out. Since these control the oil pressure which affects the phasers it may throw the codes you are seeing. In my case the bolts had not worked completely out, but were very loose. One was partially out and another 2 were hardly finger tight making 3 of the 4 suspect. I removed, cleaned, applied loctite and torqued them.

Inspecting them can be a pain. If I remember correctly, you can remove the VVT solenoid and see one of them, but not the other. Removing the valve covers is a bit of a pain. A bore scope may allow you to see the other galley bolt. In my case the bore scope would have revealed the bolt that was partially out, but not the other 2 as they were flush.

Only thing I can say is try to do as much inspection as possible. I have seen many post with multiple parts and sensors thrown at the issue to no avail. I chose to systematically start with the root and work out from there. Just some info on what I experienced and my opinion, but your issue(s) may be different than mine and you know what they say about opinions. There is a YouTube channel Pine Hollow Diagnostics that has more than a couple videos on these codes. Check them out, they may help. If you don't have all the equipment he does some deductive reasoning and drawing correlations may help. I really want to buy a Pico scope hahahahahahaha.

 

So after driving for months and manually shifting (because the Jeep decided it no longer would downshift when needed for more power), I finally replaced the Duralast cam sensor with a new OEM sensor (I searched over 30 dealerships to find the part in stock and under $100 with shipping) and everything appears to be working great. Turns out, the cam sensor I shared in the picture above was an OEM sensor. I popped the new one in and everything but the check engine cleared itself. Initial scan showed P2638 grey Torque Management Feedback Signal 'A' Range / Performance. But after driving for about 30 miles and restarting the engine, that also cleared. I was even able to use my cruise control with no issues. It has only been about a week and I have only driven about 100 miles so far because I am off work this week, but to be honest, this is probably the best it has driven since I bought it a few years ago. Thanks to @resharp001 and @IIQII for the advice along this horrible journey.

p.s. - I broke the 100,000 miles back on December 9. Only 180,000 more to go to match up with my old '07.

 

Glad you got it situated.

I found out quick to stick with OEM when it comes to sensors. Not from my Jeep, but from another car. Bosch sensors that shared the same part number but different vehicle branding bit me in the butt. Replacing both engine speed and position sensors on that car for a second time was a royal pain where I was bit.

Enjoy the Jeep. It is great when you can fix it. I have actually enjoyed working on mine. Rewarding projects.

 

I'm in process of cleaning all my wife's junk out of my garage so I can park in there again and do repairs a bit easier. I definitely think I will be doing most of my own work after all this mess. Final bill had I done all of the work myself would have been just under $200 and had I had the dealer do it all it would have cost me nearly $2000.

 

EDIT: Looks like it double posted.

 

Thanks for the follow-up. Hopefully, that is that and can enjoy some trouble-free miles.

 

Exactly. And in the process you learn your vehicle. Always thought that was win on both fronts.