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Not throttle body! Rough idle. Limp mode. Codes c121c u0401 p0222 p0123 p2111

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Old 11-16-2018, 05:32 PM
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Default Not throttle body! Rough idle. Limp mode. Codes c121c u0401 p0222 p0123 p2111

My jeep will start fine in the morning. Run good if I stay at speed on the the highway. As soon as I start to slow down, turn. Hit red lights. (Accelerate or slow down) the eps/bas light, flashing bolt, traction control, and check engine light come on. Along with instant rough idle. Acceleration is greatly decreased and maxes our at about 35pmh. In neutral if I push down the gas pedal to the floor the rpms max out at 3000. Upon removing my foot from the pedal the engine revs on its own up 400rpms then down then up then down. Shutting off my jeep would fix the problem at first. But now new if the engine is warm it takes longer and longer for it to clear. And almost starts again instantly. I did replace the engin in June and problems started about 1 month after. Very seldom at first. I've replaced the map sensor, brake booster check valve and throttle body still with no luck. Ice checked connections and wires and havent found any problems. I have had no other codes either.

Last edited by Nick Zabel; 11-16-2018 at 05:35 PM.
Old 11-17-2018, 09:21 AM
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Have you checked fuel pressure? Sounds like a fuel starvation problem.
Old 12-27-2020, 07:48 PM
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Default Any luck?

Were you able to figure this out?
I'm having a similar issue with my 2011. I have already replaced the PCM, ABS, throttle body and EGR. Getting codes p2110 and c121c
Old 12-28-2020, 05:13 AM
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This worked for me but use at your own risk. I would also do an overnight battery disconnect, at least 8 hours.throttle Calibration Procedure:



Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression. Throttle calibration can take care of these.

1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).

2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.

3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.

4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.

5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".

6) Start the engine.

Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming. You likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.



From <https://www.wranglerforum.com/thread...ration.888666/>





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OscarMlke (12-28-2020)
Old 12-28-2020, 05:20 AM
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Good tip. I've notice after having the emissions test, (where the testers plug their system into the jeep's computer) the jeep seems a bit sluggish. I may try this myself. The battery thing is always on my list and now that I have a terminal & cable connection cleaning tool. I can preform this maintenance a bit easier.

Last edited by OscarMlke; 12-28-2020 at 05:22 AM.
Old 12-28-2020, 06:46 AM
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I am not 100% but understand a proper mechanics scanner will give you fuel pressure readout. I am talking about the $3000 scanner not the $99 one. Take it to an independent shop and talk to them. My HP Tuners gives me FP on the high and low side in my Chev/Jeep engine but again you need access to HP Tuners if it does actually read the Jeep one. Other choice is to temporarily install a fuel pressure gauge with a plug in tee fitting in the line and attach a gauge. Should be between 48/52psi. FP is the first basic test as stated by Seizer. Your parts dealers should have the fitting which makes no necessary plumbing required other than attaching the gauge to the tee.
Old 12-28-2020, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Sixty4x4
I am not 100% but understand a proper mechanics scanner will give you fuel pressure readout. I am talking about the $3000 scanner not the $99 one. Take it to an independent shop and talk to them. My HP Tuners gives me FP on the high and low side in my Chev/Jeep engine but again you need access to HP Tuners if it does actually read the Jeep one. Other choice is to temporarily install a fuel pressure gauge with a plug in tee fitting in the line and attach a gauge. Should be between 48/52psi. FP is the first basic test as stated by Seizer. Your parts dealers should have the fitting which makes no necessary plumbing required other than attaching the gauge to the tee.

JK 3.6L has injectors that clog easily per my mechanic. He said that he would be glad to take my money to replace the injectors BUT he said that I should use berryman chemtool for a few tanks to do some coarse cleaning and then techron injector cleaner for a tank. The techron should be run at around 3k rpm for a 10-20 minutes to really clean the injectors with extra fuel pressure/volume. Supposedly the computer responds with tweaks if the fuel pressure is varying from cylinder to cylinder. I have an automatic so I put it in manual tiptronic at 3rd gear on back country roads to reach 3k rpm with ease. This is to prove the cheapest and easiest failure mode of clogged injectors. It worked beautifully for me.
Old 12-28-2020, 08:36 AM
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OP are you 3.8 or 3.6 engine?
Old 12-28-2020, 12:06 PM
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Follow Up;

Hey Jonesboro, just did the gas peddle trick and what a difference the jeep is it's old self again. I hate when we take it to emissions they screw with the system. thanks again for the tip.
Old 12-28-2020, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by OscarMlke
Follow Up;

Hey Jonesboro, just did the gas peddle trick and what a difference the jeep is it's old self again. I hate when we take it to emissions they screw with the system. thanks again for the tip.
I am damn glad it worked for you like it does me. It feels good to pass on what I learned and help people.


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