Oil Filter Bypass Valve Question
So, to conclude an almost comically difficult oil change that required the removal of my oil-pan skid and a 2-foot pipe wrench to remove the drain plug, my stupid oil filter bypass valve bit the dust. I've already ordered a replacement, but I've not been able to find answers to a couple questions I had, and was hoping some of the resident experts could chime in.
1) When it exploded, some of the plastic wound up in the housing (fell down the outer tube), and despite all my best efforts, I've been unable to retrieve it. It's not much, but I'm wondering just what the potential danger level of allowing it to remain is? (After having found a good diagram of oil flow through the unit, I don't think it'll be a problem given where it wound up... it should get caught by the filter, assuming it doesn't go through the bypass valve)
2) Obviously not good to drive around much without that bypass valve... but my understanding is that without the piece in there at all, the oil would barely make it through the filter at all, which with a brand new set of oil, wouldn't be the end of the world at least for a few miles to get back home. I don't want to even start it if I'm wrong, though... (And now that I've got a better idea of how the oil flows through the unit, I'm concerned that not having the bypass valve in place would potentially allow that little bit of plastic to make it past the filter)
Appreciate any insight that you may be able to provide!
1) When it exploded, some of the plastic wound up in the housing (fell down the outer tube), and despite all my best efforts, I've been unable to retrieve it. It's not much, but I'm wondering just what the potential danger level of allowing it to remain is? (After having found a good diagram of oil flow through the unit, I don't think it'll be a problem given where it wound up... it should get caught by the filter, assuming it doesn't go through the bypass valve)
2) Obviously not good to drive around much without that bypass valve... but my understanding is that without the piece in there at all, the oil would barely make it through the filter at all, which with a brand new set of oil, wouldn't be the end of the world at least for a few miles to get back home. I don't want to even start it if I'm wrong, though... (And now that I've got a better idea of how the oil flows through the unit, I'm concerned that not having the bypass valve in place would potentially allow that little bit of plastic to make it past the filter)
Appreciate any insight that you may be able to provide!
Last edited by RedRubycon; Jan 10, 2020 at 08:23 PM.
Update: ended up without much choice and had to drive it home. Only a short trip and no evidence of problems, and I don't plan on doing anything else until the replacement valve shows up.
Still be interested in what other's input on the matter is, simply out of curiosity now.
Still be interested in what other's input on the matter is, simply out of curiosity now.
1) Get what you can get out, don't worry about the rest
2) Especially with fresh oil, certainly won't hurt to drive it as little as possible until you can replace it.
Same situation, thousands of miles later, no problems. If you intend to keep the Jeep, buy a spare when you order it.
2) Especially with fresh oil, certainly won't hurt to drive it as little as possible until you can replace it.
Same situation, thousands of miles later, no problems. If you intend to keep the Jeep, buy a spare when you order it.
1) Get what you can get out, don't worry about the rest
2) Especially with fresh oil, certainly won't hurt to drive it as little as possible until you can replace it.
Same situation, thousands of miles later, no problems. If you intend to keep the Jeep, buy a spare when you order it.
2) Especially with fresh oil, certainly won't hurt to drive it as little as possible until you can replace it.
Same situation, thousands of miles later, no problems. If you intend to keep the Jeep, buy a spare when you order it.
Yeah, I probably should have ordered 2, but... well, I'll just make sure to grab one again next time I order something.
Dorman makes an By Pass Kit.. 917-922.. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-85925-917-992.aspx
When a bypass valve cracks on certain engine oil filter assemblies, the manufacturer requires replacing the entire housing. This Dorman OE FIX allows direct replacement of just the valve for a simple, inexpensive repair. Direct replacement for the OEM one that breaks or launches out & is lost. Quality engineering - designed in the United States and backed by decades of automotive aftermarket experience
I used one & it is still functioning after 2 years...
When a bypass valve cracks on certain engine oil filter assemblies, the manufacturer requires replacing the entire housing. This Dorman OE FIX allows direct replacement of just the valve for a simple, inexpensive repair. Direct replacement for the OEM one that breaks or launches out & is lost. Quality engineering - designed in the United States and backed by decades of automotive aftermarket experience
I used one & it is still functioning after 2 years...
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Thanks, I did some research online and looks like the newer 3.6l engines don't have this, had me thinking mine had been broken completely off.
Ah, gotcha. Yeah, due to the issues with that stupid part they changed the design after... not long, I don't recall the exact year. But newer 3.6L's won't have the same setup.







