Michael Belliveau

I need to replace my clutch soon and was wondering if someone could give me a list of other components to replace while I have everything apart ie bearing, seals and so on. I have 2008 jku X with160k miles and I think it's original clutch.

Thanks

karls10jk

Throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and the clutch fork retaining spring. It's also a great time to change the fluid in your transfer case.

Michael Belliveau

What about rear main seal? It's not leaking, just don't know if it have ever been replaced.

Mr.T

I wouldn't replace if it's not leaking. I think the odds are better with a known good seal, have had new ones leak.

karls10jk

^^ truth. I've been in for a clutch multiple times and the RMS is not one that I'd just do to do. The compounding piece there is that it isn't usually the RMS but instead lower intake manifold gaskets that are leaking and making it look like the RMS. Be careful with the posts on your starter, I have a bad habit of breaking them when reinstalling everything to the point where I'll have a spare (because I tighten too far). The top two bolts can be tough to reach but if you pivot the whole trans down then you can access them, pivot it back up, and disconnect.

I did recommended doing the transfer case fluid while you're replacing the clutch and to clarify- pull the transfer case separately from the transmission, unless you have a massive trans jack. I had the harbor freight special and it was very awkward to where I had it about halfway down and disconnected it, then proceeded.

I'm sure you've watched all of the videos and read all of the articles, but the clips for your transfer case linkage are another piece that I'd have ready to go. There's a larger clip that holds the cable into the bracket, mine broke. Then you've got a smaller one at the end. Most people have these fail at inopportune times, I think it was my second TOB that claimed that bushing. As far as the height of the vehicle. I like it up a little higher so when you pull the trans out on your jack (with shift tower attached) that you can slide it out under the frame rails. Be sure to start hitting your O2 sensors with kroil to get them to come out nicely. I'm fairly certain I pulled the entire Y pipe the last time that I did the bearing.

Michael Belliveau

You always have the best info! So, follow up question... The reason I am replacing my clutch is because when the clutch is disengaged (not pressing the clutch pedal) it makes a "tick tick tick" noise. It happens in nutural, and every gear and does not get louder and change speed with engine speed. However when the the clutch is engaged (clutch pedal depressed) that tick sound goes away. And lastly when I push the clutch pedal, I gett a couple clicks and I think I can also feel in the pedal. So my question is how quickly does the clutch need to be replaced and does anyone know what the actual cause might be? I am doing some of the badge of honor trails in CO in August and it's a 12 hour drive from my house and I would like to not have to spend money on my Jeep until after my week long trip.

Mr.T

Definitely have the plastic bushings/clips for the transfer case shifter that Karl mentioned on hand. Here's some "clutch notes" from my JK.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...5/#post4322031

Here's a bit more regarding the transmission jack mentioned in the above link: I used a modified HF trans jack with an out-rigger (made from angle-iron) added on the left (drivers side) caster to handle the offset center of gravity -- Which tends to tip the jack sideways with a trans and transfer case combination, and really ruin the day! It's held up heavier transfer case and transmission combos than the JK -- The trick is the out-rigger and double-securing the trans tightly to the jack. I've pulled the transfer case separately on a friends Jeep, and would rather use the out-rigger jack if both the trans and transfer case are coming out.

Another decision is whether to pull the shift-tower off the trans, or leave it on. On mine, with the shift-tower on there wasn't enough clearance for my preference. And the engine has to be much more angled (flywheel down) which makes it harder to slide the trans input shaft straight into the clutch. It's only 4 bolts to take the tower off from the top, but one has to clean and take care to cover the open top with cardboard & duct tape. Suggest seeing how yours looks at that point, and keep the option of taking the shift-tower off in mind.

Karl jogged a memory about oil leaks from the back of the lower intake running down the bell housing and looking like the rear main oil seal leaking. Mine had a small case of that. With the trans out it's easy to clean (brake cleaner) that area of the lower intake, the valley and the corners at the cylinder head. then smear on lots of silicone (Permatex extra oil-resistant). It worked for me...

Mr.T

This may be worth reading, the clutch center was loose/worn on mine: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...5/#post4321526

Michael Belliveau

This is why I love this forum! What you described is dead on what I am experiencing. I know there is a million variables that are unknown, but if I don't notice getting worse do you think I could get away with 6k more miles?

Mr.T

That's essentially what I did, for maybe even longer. But while 900 miles from home it rapidly changed and got bad enough that I went home early, taking it real easy on every shift. Wouldn't surprise me at all if it's the same problem, suspect the center was a little under-designed.