Overheating under load
07-31-2013, 12:46 PM
#21
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: location location location
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
damn thats out in the boonies then 
guess you'll just have to wait till it finally breaks before they will help you. sux! i'd pick up a water pump and a temp gauge so I would not get stranded in such a desolate country. best of luck! 
guess you'll just have to wait till it finally breaks before they will help you. sux! i'd pick up a water pump and a temp gauge so I would not get stranded in such a desolate country. best of luck!
07-31-2013, 01:53 PM
#22
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
My concern is that now that they've blamed the issue on the tires... that any issues going forward will still get blamed on them. I'm also wondering if perhaps it's my head gasket.
07-31-2013, 02:14 PM
#23
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: East Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the same issue with my 2012 jku rubi it has 4.10s on a 3" lift with 35"s. on little hills it'll go up a bit last the middle mark but on longer steep hills it'll jump to the 3/4 mark n I also get a burning like smell, but when it gets to the 3/4 it feel like my engine shuts off I loose all power. I've taken it to the dealer n they checked everything out n the temp even went up on them in between 1/2-3/4 but it didn't give them any codes. They told me something is up with it but everything checked out fine. They documented everything about it so I always have documentation about it. They also commented that my jeep was the second one with the same issue. My Jk has 34,000 miles
07-31-2013, 03:26 PM
#24
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I have the same issue with my 2012 jku rubi it has 4.10s on a 3" lift with 35"s. on little hills it'll go up a bit last the middle mark but on longer steep hills it'll jump to the 3/4 mark n I also get a burning like smell, but when it gets to the 3/4 it feel like my engine shuts off I loose all power. I've taken it to the dealer n they checked everything out n the temp even went up on them in between 1/2-3/4 but it didn't give them any codes. They told me something is up with it but everything checked out fine. They documented everything about it so I always have documentation about it. They also commented that my jeep was the second one with the same issue. My Jk has 34,000 miles
My temp has only gone to the 3/4 mark a couple times (3, maybe 4). But I can get it pretty close to that (~237F) fairly easily. I've never really noticed any issues. However those were steep ass hills, and I was towing my little trailer (1250 lbs), so I wasn't really pushing things at all and may not have noticed any issues (other than the temp).
07-31-2013, 04:38 PM
#26
JK Freak
Septu: using that much coolant means that you have a problem. Newer vehicles just don't use coolant unless there's a problem (my Honda DD went 120,000 miles without EVER adding coolant). If you find/fix that problem, perhaps the temperature problem will also be solved. In the mean time, better keep a jug of coolant with you on that trip tomorrow.
07-31-2013, 04:48 PM
#27
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have friends with a 2013 and the temp gauge doesn't move any more than my 07 did - which was not at all. Maybe a hint to the right... but when mine goes warm, I'm talking almost 3/4 of the way across the gauge. Which in my mind is not normal. Also, I was told that the 2012 manual says 230F is considered to be overheating. 230F is barely a peg to the right of where mine normally operates (basically vertical, 207-222F).
Anyone else with a 2012+ going through coolant? Also, how do I check to see if there's coolant in my oil (I'm due for an oil change fairly quickly).
07-31-2013, 06:42 PM
#29
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Webster, NY
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So while pondering this I've run several scenarios thru my head. I do have a question to help put us on the right track though. Does your engine "overheat" all the time or just when you discover the coolant level is low? The reason I ask is you may be looking in the wrong direction.
Lets say your engine "overheats", so you check the level and its low. This would lead me to check for leaks first, which come in different forms (internal: into oil, through the head gasket, or external).
On the other hand, "overheating" all the time regardless of coolant levels. This would be a completely different problem (insufficient transfer of heat) and since you say that the engine L/O is at the appropriate level, fan works, and radiator is clean I would be concerned that either the pump is failing or you have a blockage in a passage somewhere. This could also cause your coolant level to drop if the engine temp gets hot enough to boil it.
I would start with the easy stuff first:
-Check L/O for emulsification (coolant/water)
-Double check engine bay for dried coolant (external leak)
-Check exhaust for smoke (color)
-Check radiator cap
-Take some real temp readings via a scan gauge, bluetooth app, or mechanical gauges.
If no result, then complete a cylinder leak down test. This will tell you a lot, not that you are expecting any issues, but this would tell you if one exists. Don't know how familiar you are with this so heres the run down.
-Test is preformed with a leak down tool (air compressor needed), it has a regulator and a gauge;
-Place cylinder to be tested @ TDC (compression)
-Set regulator, screw into plug hole, and take reading from gauge
-You should have less the 10-15% leak down between the two numbers
-If while pressure is on the cylinder listen for leaks
If hissing is found:
-Radiator cap or bubbles if cap is removed = head gasket
-Adjacent cylinder = head gasket
-Dipstick = rings
-Intake = intake valve
-Exhaust = exhaust valve
If you complete these steps and still turn up empty handed, I'd figure you have a heat transfer problem which needs to be addressed and then the magic coolant will stop pulling its tricks as well. Good luck and keep us posted.
Lets say your engine "overheats", so you check the level and its low. This would lead me to check for leaks first, which come in different forms (internal: into oil, through the head gasket, or external).
On the other hand, "overheating" all the time regardless of coolant levels. This would be a completely different problem (insufficient transfer of heat) and since you say that the engine L/O is at the appropriate level, fan works, and radiator is clean I would be concerned that either the pump is failing or you have a blockage in a passage somewhere. This could also cause your coolant level to drop if the engine temp gets hot enough to boil it.
I would start with the easy stuff first:
-Check L/O for emulsification (coolant/water)
-Double check engine bay for dried coolant (external leak)
-Check exhaust for smoke (color)
-Check radiator cap
-Take some real temp readings via a scan gauge, bluetooth app, or mechanical gauges.
If no result, then complete a cylinder leak down test. This will tell you a lot, not that you are expecting any issues, but this would tell you if one exists. Don't know how familiar you are with this so heres the run down.
-Test is preformed with a leak down tool (air compressor needed), it has a regulator and a gauge;
-Place cylinder to be tested @ TDC (compression)
-Set regulator, screw into plug hole, and take reading from gauge
-You should have less the 10-15% leak down between the two numbers
-If while pressure is on the cylinder listen for leaks
If hissing is found:
-Radiator cap or bubbles if cap is removed = head gasket
-Adjacent cylinder = head gasket
-Dipstick = rings
-Intake = intake valve
-Exhaust = exhaust valve
If you complete these steps and still turn up empty handed, I'd figure you have a heat transfer problem which needs to be addressed and then the magic coolant will stop pulling its tricks as well. Good luck and keep us posted.
Last edited by toolow262; 07-31-2013 at 06:46 PM.
07-31-2013, 08:17 PM
#30
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Thanks. Temp has nothing to do with coolant levels. I notice its not full, and I top it off, but the engine will heat up even if it's full. My temp readings have come from a Scangauge ii (ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge). The engine only overheats when I make it work. I can drive a flat highway with zero issues (did a 7000km road trip with this being an issue on hills). I can drive around in town with no issues. However the moment I go up a hill that's somewhat steep, the temp starts to rise. Shortly after the load decreases the temp goes back to normal (starts dropping within 15-30 seconds?).
I'm pretty sure a buddy or two has one of these... will ask around this week.
L/O ??? What do you mean?
I'm pretty sure a buddy or two has one of these... will ask around this week.
L/O ??? What do you mean?
So while pondering this I've run several scenarios thru my head. I do have a question to help put us on the right track though. Does your engine "overheat" all the time or just when you discover the coolant level is low? The reason I ask is you may be looking in the wrong direction.
Lets say your engine "overheats", so you check the level and its low. This would lead me to check for leaks first, which come in different forms (internal: into oil, through the head gasket, or external).
On the other hand, "overheating" all the time regardless of coolant levels. This would be a completely different problem (insufficient transfer of heat) and since you say that the engine L/O is at the appropriate level, fan works, and radiator is clean I would be concerned that either the pump is failing or you have a blockage in a passage somewhere. This could also cause your coolant level to drop if the engine temp gets hot enough to boil it.
I would start with the easy stuff first:
-Check L/O for emulsification (coolant/water)
-Double check engine bay for dried coolant (external leak)
-Check exhaust for smoke (color)
-Check radiator cap
-Take some real temp readings via a scan gauge, bluetooth app, or mechanical gauges.
If no result, then complete a cylinder leak down test. This will tell you a lot, not that you are expecting any issues, but this would tell you if one exists. Don't know how familiar you are with this so heres the run down.
-Test is preformed with a leak down tool (air compressor needed), it has a regulator and a gauge;
-Place cylinder to be tested @ TDC (compression)
-Set regulator, screw into plug hole, and take reading from gauge
-You should have less the 10-15% leak down between the two numbers
-If while pressure is on the cylinder listen for leaks
If hissing is found:
-Radiator cap or bubbles if cap is removed = head gasket
-Adjacent cylinder = head gasket
-Dipstick = rings
-Intake = intake valve
-Exhaust = exhaust valve
If you complete these steps and still turn up empty handed, I'd figure you have a heat transfer problem which needs to be addressed and then the magic coolant will stop pulling its tricks as well. Good luck and keep us posted.
Lets say your engine "overheats", so you check the level and its low. This would lead me to check for leaks first, which come in different forms (internal: into oil, through the head gasket, or external).
On the other hand, "overheating" all the time regardless of coolant levels. This would be a completely different problem (insufficient transfer of heat) and since you say that the engine L/O is at the appropriate level, fan works, and radiator is clean I would be concerned that either the pump is failing or you have a blockage in a passage somewhere. This could also cause your coolant level to drop if the engine temp gets hot enough to boil it.
I would start with the easy stuff first:
-Check L/O for emulsification (coolant/water)
-Double check engine bay for dried coolant (external leak)
-Check exhaust for smoke (color)
-Check radiator cap
-Take some real temp readings via a scan gauge, bluetooth app, or mechanical gauges.
If no result, then complete a cylinder leak down test. This will tell you a lot, not that you are expecting any issues, but this would tell you if one exists. Don't know how familiar you are with this so heres the run down.
-Test is preformed with a leak down tool (air compressor needed), it has a regulator and a gauge;
-Place cylinder to be tested @ TDC (compression)
-Set regulator, screw into plug hole, and take reading from gauge
-You should have less the 10-15% leak down between the two numbers
-If while pressure is on the cylinder listen for leaks
If hissing is found:
-Radiator cap or bubbles if cap is removed = head gasket
-Adjacent cylinder = head gasket
-Dipstick = rings
-Intake = intake valve
-Exhaust = exhaust valve
If you complete these steps and still turn up empty handed, I'd figure you have a heat transfer problem which needs to be addressed and then the magic coolant will stop pulling its tricks as well. Good luck and keep us posted.