Rear axle cam bolts - stock configuration?
Morning all...new to the Forum and Jeeps, but not new to wrenching - '68 Datsun convertible and '90 XJS with V12 up front that have kept me wrenching for the last few years. But..newbie when it comes to Jeeps. We just picked up a 2008 Wrangler JK Sahara for my daughter and are removing a crappy lift kit to turn it to a stock configuration. Hence my question - did the stock rear axle come with any cam-bolts on upper control arms? The bracket on the rear diff. seems to be slotted with "bumps" on the outside to help position a thick washer that has a flat part where a cam-bolt passes through. Did bunch of research but can not seem to locate any info on that, besides a lift kit applications. Dealer parts person was not super helpful with a wrong part diagram and #'s. Any thoughts from those more experienced here on the Forum.
With appreciation for any thoughts/advice.
M
With appreciation for any thoughts/advice.
M
I haven’t see cam bolts installed on the rear upper control arms from the factory, but I have seen the tabs on the brackets on every Jeep I’ve owned. The holes were not slotted from the factory, but some reportedly had “knock-outs” on some to create the elongated opening, mine were just a stamped line to show the shape of the elongated opening. The factory bolt has the large washer that fits between the tabs but the hole is centered so it does not allow any adjustment.
The cam bolts aren’t the best solution. Adjustable control arms are much better - but more expensive - and will not change position if the bolt isn’t properly tightened or loosens up. If you’re returning the Jeep to stock you can just replace the cam bolts with factory ones with the centered washer.
Do you know what lift was installed, and if it was 100% bolt-on? If any brackets were modified it may require extra work to return it to stock, and you may be better off just upgrading to a better quality lift.
The cam bolts aren’t the best solution. Adjustable control arms are much better - but more expensive - and will not change position if the bolt isn’t properly tightened or loosens up. If you’re returning the Jeep to stock you can just replace the cam bolts with factory ones with the centered washer.
Do you know what lift was installed, and if it was 100% bolt-on? If any brackets were modified it may require extra work to return it to stock, and you may be better off just upgrading to a better quality lift.
Pictures go a long way. cam bolts are not something we'd typically see outside of front lower arms, and even then they are not a good idea. if for some reason it really does have cam bolts, i'd assume you could use a simple cam bolt eliminator like you could up front. better to weld something like that in for longer-term, but they are designed to just slide in torque the bolt down.
Morning to you both..Thanks for the quick responses gents -- appreciate the insights. I'll stick with the stock vs. upgraded lift - most parts are here now. Committed at this stage now...lol...It all looks bolt-on to my eye, but not having the history/experience on stock hardware - not 100% on that. No obvious places where welding was done. I'll track down the centering washers and fire up the MIG....I don't love the idea of the bolt being able to come undone and move around. I'll torque it down and mark the bolts/monitor over time for any movement. Will grab pic's next time -- too busy fighting with it so did not think of that.
Appreciate the assistance and sharing your experience.
M
Appreciate the assistance and sharing your experience.
M
I think the main areas to check for modified brackets would be the track bars, and possibly drop brackets on the lower front control arms at the frame end.
If you have the factory-style bolts with the hole centered in the washer you won’t have to worry about them shifting - the tabs that the washer indexes into will keep it from sliding forward or backward, even if the holes have been elongated for the cam bolts. If I recall correctly, the washer on the head end of the bolt is pressed on and it would be difficult to remove the bolt later if you weld the washer to the bracket.
If you have the factory-style bolts with the hole centered in the washer you won’t have to worry about them shifting - the tabs that the washer indexes into will keep it from sliding forward or backward, even if the holes have been elongated for the cam bolts. If I recall correctly, the washer on the head end of the bolt is pressed on and it would be difficult to remove the bolt later if you weld the washer to the bracket.







