Replacement Brake Pad Question
I'm going to change out my brake pads this weekend, and have a couple of quick quesitons.
1. What brand and/or type of brake pad is the best? I have Napa, Advance Auto, and Autozone nearby. I prefer Autozone, but will go to whoever has the best pads. (I have a $20 credit at Autozone.
)
2. Wagner Thermoquiets have a $30 rebate at Advance Auto. Are they any good?
3. How do you determine if brake rotors are in good shape and don't need to be turned or replaced? A guy at Autozone visually inspected mine and said they don't "look" like they need to be turned, but I want to be sure.
Any help is appreciated!
1. What brand and/or type of brake pad is the best? I have Napa, Advance Auto, and Autozone nearby. I prefer Autozone, but will go to whoever has the best pads. (I have a $20 credit at Autozone.
)2. Wagner Thermoquiets have a $30 rebate at Advance Auto. Are they any good?
3. How do you determine if brake rotors are in good shape and don't need to be turned or replaced? A guy at Autozone visually inspected mine and said they don't "look" like they need to be turned, but I want to be sure.
Any help is appreciated!
Last edited by dmwil; Sep 3, 2011 at 05:56 AM.
This fella did a nice writeup, replacing just the pads.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...=brake+writeup
I just finished putting the Hawk HPS pads on mine this morning. My fronts still had half life, rears were gone (about 35k miles). Since I had bought both sets, I just replace them all anyway.
I do not know if the Hawks are any better pads than the ones you mentioned. All I know is the Jeep stops better (and quieter) than it did.
As far as rotors, I did not turn mine. If there are no gouges or grooves worn in, they shoud be fine. Damage normally happens if you run the pads to bare metal.
Pretty easy to do, as long as you have something to compress the caliper piston.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...=brake+writeup
I just finished putting the Hawk HPS pads on mine this morning. My fronts still had half life, rears were gone (about 35k miles). Since I had bought both sets, I just replace them all anyway.
I do not know if the Hawks are any better pads than the ones you mentioned. All I know is the Jeep stops better (and quieter) than it did.
As far as rotors, I did not turn mine. If there are no gouges or grooves worn in, they shoud be fine. Damage normally happens if you run the pads to bare metal.
Pretty easy to do, as long as you have something to compress the caliper piston.
I don't know that anyone can definitively tell you that this or that brake pad is better-anymore than they can tell you a certain brand of oil is best--but since you've invited them to, I suspect some will try and your responses will be all over the map. LOL.
I replaced my pads with Duralast, which I believe is the Autozone brand. They are lifetime pads. Don't just buy pads until you inspect and determine that you need. Most folks don't need to change the fronts at all--JKs just haven't been around long enough. And the mileage on rears varies anywhere from in the teens to folks like me who got somewhere around 70-75K (can't remember exactly). It depends a lot on your driving style, as well as where you drive (sand and mud eat up brake pads).
I agree with previous poster on the rotors. You may want to mic each rotor--the minimum thickness is engraved into each rotor.
I replaced my pads with Duralast, which I believe is the Autozone brand. They are lifetime pads. Don't just buy pads until you inspect and determine that you need. Most folks don't need to change the fronts at all--JKs just haven't been around long enough. And the mileage on rears varies anywhere from in the teens to folks like me who got somewhere around 70-75K (can't remember exactly). It depends a lot on your driving style, as well as where you drive (sand and mud eat up brake pads).
I agree with previous poster on the rotors. You may want to mic each rotor--the minimum thickness is engraved into each rotor.
Originally Posted by dmwil
I'm going to change out my brake pads this weekend, and have a couple of quick quesitons.
1. What brand and/or type of brake pad is the best? I have Napa, Advance Auto, and Autozone nearby. I prefer Autozone, but will go to whoever has the best pads. (I have a $20 credit at Autozone.
)
2. Wagner Thermoquiets have a $30 rebate at Advance Auto. Are they any good?
3. How do you determine if brake rotors are in good shape and don't need to be turned or replaced? A guy at Autozone visually inspected mine and said they don't "look" like they need to be turned, but I want to be sure.
Any help is appreciated!
1. What brand and/or type of brake pad is the best? I have Napa, Advance Auto, and Autozone nearby. I prefer Autozone, but will go to whoever has the best pads. (I have a $20 credit at Autozone.
)2. Wagner Thermoquiets have a $30 rebate at Advance Auto. Are they any good?
3. How do you determine if brake rotors are in good shape and don't need to be turned or replaced? A guy at Autozone visually inspected mine and said they don't "look" like they need to be turned, but I want to be sure.
Any help is appreciated!
Three weeks ago at 49,000KMs I did my rear brakes, and I decided to put on OEM Mopar pads....think they came in at 85.00 for both pairs, I'm happ with them. May look into the Hawks next time. My rotors were fine, all I did was remove them, inspect, clean and re-install. In addition to the other post said on rotor replacement:
-pay attention to your break pedal, no pulsing when you break...indications of warped router.
-cracks, dis-colour on the surface.
I think I will do rotors next time around....two sets of pads per rotor seems fair.
You may also want to adjust your E-brake while you are in there, most of us have had to do this, and seeing how you need to remove the calipair to so this, not such a bad time to git this done too.
Good luck, this is a feel good project once you are done.
-pay attention to your break pedal, no pulsing when you break...indications of warped router.
-cracks, dis-colour on the surface.
I think I will do rotors next time around....two sets of pads per rotor seems fair.
You may also want to adjust your E-brake while you are in there, most of us have had to do this, and seeing how you need to remove the calipair to so this, not such a bad time to git this done too.
Good luck, this is a feel good project once you are done.
Got the rears done. Surprisingly easy. I didn't adjust the e-brake because it is now grabbing fine with the new pads. I think I'm going to do the same thing and change the rotors when the new pads are done. There wasn't any warping in the rotors, and if there was scoring, it was very slight. Certainly there was some wear on the rotors, but they are thick, so I'll just monitor them for now.
I'll be doing the front pads in the morning.
The ThermoQuiet pads did not come with retainer clips. I was a little surprised at that. The old ones appeared in good shape, though, so I just reused them. These pads also claim to require no brake lube. They have what they call "integrally molded insulators" on the backs of the pads. I'm not sure about that, but I did follow directions and refrained from putting the brake lube on them. Not sure if this is good or not.
I'll be doing the front pads in the morning.
The ThermoQuiet pads did not come with retainer clips. I was a little surprised at that. The old ones appeared in good shape, though, so I just reused them. These pads also claim to require no brake lube. They have what they call "integrally molded insulators" on the backs of the pads. I'm not sure about that, but I did follow directions and refrained from putting the brake lube on them. Not sure if this is good or not.
Last edited by dmwil; Sep 3, 2011 at 03:37 PM.
Got the rears done. Surprisingly easy. I didn't adjust the e-brake because it is now grabbing fine with the new pads. I think I'm going to do the same thing and change the rotors when the new pads are done. There wasn't any warping in the rotors, and if there was scoring, it was very slight. Certainly there was some wear on the rotors, but they are thick, so I'll just monitor them for now.
I'll be doing the front pads in the morning.
The ThermoQuiet pads did not come with retainer clips. I was a little surprised at that. The old ones appeared in good shape, though, so I just reused them. These pads also claim to require no brake lube. They have what they call "integrally molded insulators" on the backs of the pads. I'm not sure about that, but I did follow directions and refrained from putting the brake lube on them. Not sure if this is good or not.
I'll be doing the front pads in the morning.
The ThermoQuiet pads did not come with retainer clips. I was a little surprised at that. The old ones appeared in good shape, though, so I just reused them. These pads also claim to require no brake lube. They have what they call "integrally molded insulators" on the backs of the pads. I'm not sure about that, but I did follow directions and refrained from putting the brake lube on them. Not sure if this is good or not.
Good luck with the fronts...I have yet to do mine, they still seem good, more then 60% so I'm an honest few months yet before I do them.
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Sounds like a good days work.
Just keep in mind that the e-brake does not use the disc pads in the rear, these are drum breaks. When you pull the rotor off you will find shoes behind them...the rotor's high hat is the drum, and the rotor is the rotor for the discs....yep both flavors out back.
Good luck with the fronts...I have yet to do mine, they still seem good, more then 60% so I'm an honest few months yet before I do them.
Good luck with the fronts...I have yet to do mine, they still seem good, more then 60% so I'm an honest few months yet before I do them.
I haven't even looked at the fronts, so it will be interesting to see how they are.
Well I'll be damned! I'd have never imagined that set-up. I'm not sure why, but the e-brake is holding better. Before the pad replacement, I'd get a squeak or rubbing sound briefly when backing up. I backed up several times tonight after having the e-brake on and did not hear the squeak. Maybe it was the temp or humidity that made me think it was better. I'll check it over the next few days and will go back and adjust it if the noise returns or if the e-brake doesn't hold.
I haven't even looked at the fronts, so it will be interesting to see how they are.
I haven't even looked at the fronts, so it will be interesting to see how they are.
Well, if you need to adjust the e-brake, there is a nice write up here under the project JK section. I added some comments there on the adjustment too that may help you in terms of which way to adjust the little star wheel for the RH and LH wheel. I did buy that little 4 dollar break wheel 'spoon' adjuster tool, it helped.
How many miles you got on yours? Let us know how the fronts look, and their easy of replacement.
Is there a Break Pad design for wet conditions. I do a lot of 4x4 in the Mud and Water. I get a lot of sound from the rear brakes. The breaks were inspected Twice by two different shops.They said brake pads are fine/plenty left.
Last edited by Tuto; Sep 9, 2011 at 09:54 AM.






