I personally don't base anything off "hot rod tv shows". My opinion is they are nothing without their sponsors. They changed all the fluids over to Royal Purple and "gained" 3hp. You can "gain" three horsepower by doing a pull on a better day over another. They aren't going to do that on a show and say "we got nothing out of it" or "we gained one horsepower". Three horsepower isn't noticeable anyway, certainly not to our live axle 4x4s by the time it gets to the wheels..

 

I realize I'm a little late to jump into this discussion, but I'll share my opinion. When I bought my Jeep (used) it had around 16K miles on it, and I'm not sure what bulk oil the dealership used to do the service. I changed it first at about 19K. At that time I switched to th Royal Purple oil, and a Wix filter. The small amount of rough idle I had has almost all but disappeared since running it. I'm not sure what effect changing to a synthetic oil would have had on the rough idle, but I'm happy it doesn't idle like it used to. Overall I have been pleased with the oil. I plan on using their products in my diffs in a few weeks when I service them.

 

you sir won the Award of the day for the most intellegent thing said all day..

horsepower tv got paid to say 3hp gain..

and shops make dynos say what they want

 

I have been over this alot lately, I wanted to run the best possible oil I could get in my Jeep. I looked into alot of the major brands and found that I would trust Royal Purple 5w30 in my engine. Now I do not run synth to extend service intervals but just for the simple fact theat they protect better. In all honesty you are still using the same engine that is making the same amount of refuse into the oil so why think that changing the oil to something else wouold change that. All of the major brands are going to perform well IMO some may be better than others but all of them have to pass the same API tests to get the seal. I too live in NC and I started this year by switching over to 5w30, I really don't think I am going to hurt anything and so far it has been just fine. The heat and humidity here just makes me wonder if the water thin oil is worth the .00067 mpg's it saves, to me protection is paramount period. I will not try to save a buck b/c that will most likely cost you more in the long run. I have also been using just a touch of oil somehow when I was using the 5w20, but it seems this change to the 5w30 may have stunted that all together. Time will tell for sure. I say you cant go wrong by going Royal Purple, it is really good product, and ONE of the few true synthetic basestock (group 4 & 5) oils out there. JOE>

 

i am suprised they say to run syncromax and not atf in the tcase. factory uses atf4 in tcase. i have atf royal in my tcase, and in the axles. also in the power steering, cause that takes atf also.

 

I have extensive circle track racing background. Royal Purple is good stuff. We have been running it in the racecars WELL before you could buy it autozone. However, I think its overkill for the JK engine. Granted, its definately not going to hurt anything, and your probably doing your engine a favor running the high quality oil like royal purple. But I change my oil frequently and will stick to a good old synthetic blend.

my .02
Justin

 

engine oil is one thing bc the max you should go is 6k. bt tranny, tcase and diffs go much longer. 15-30k. i say RP for these things, and a regular change of motor oil of your choice is perfect. (synth )

what yall think

 

I have used Castrol Syntec in all my vehicles, 2000 Cherokee (280K+), 2008 JK (74k+) and the wifes 2003 PT Cruiser 2.4 Turbo (197K+), she calls it Half-a-Hemi and treats it as such.

Not one of the vehicles is puffin oil burn, all test well within spec compression test. Each does well within or above mpg spec.

K&N air filters in each.

A wise mechanic told me, keep the pan clean, the parts well coated and let her breath and the motor will give back for years and years.

I broke the JK in on regular oil, three changes at 1K intervals and then synthetic at 4k to 6k intervals.

Bob

 

thats great - how do you keep the parts coated and let her breathe?

 

Keeping the internal engine parts is where I think synthetic excels over regular oil. It is enginered to stay stable as it transfers viscosity ranges and leaves a better protectant coating once the motor is left for longer periods and then started, hence less friction on cold starts that eats at rings and bearing surfaces.

Regular motor oil is fine, but in my view breacks down faster under extreme conditions or extended idle conditions. I use it for break in as it is less costly and the changes are fast to clear any material as motor sets in.

I have used K&N products in all my engines, Goldwings, Jeeps and Cars. MOst engines from the factory have air systems that starve the motor for the needed part of the burn triangle. Causes incomplete burn in the chamber if any of the needed parts lacks in proper or on demand amounts. Goes for intake and exhaust.

I am looking at exhaust systems now, larger dia. pipes and less restrictive muffler systems to improve the breathing on the back side of the engine.

Bob