Rubi Locker Operation Question
So I have been wheeling twice now in the 13' JKUR.
Both times I have had times where the Rear Locker hasn't wanted to disengage (or at least it isn't sending the disengaged signal back the the computer).
The first time was a pretty muddy day. I was going up a pretty steep grade and the rear started to loose grip. When the hill leveled I slowed to darn near a stop (although not stopped) and turned on the rear locker. (The next bit was rougher). It was definitely locked. I Got the the top of the hill and turned it off. The locker light went from lit to blinking. I tinkered with turning it on and off, taking from 4-Lo, to 4-Hi and even 2-Hi. I couldn't get it to stop blinking. The group started to move, so I gave up and we rolled toward camp. As I drove back to camp there were some tight turns on pretty solid ground. I'm pretty sure it was unlocked even though It was blinking. Got back to camp and cycled the ignition and it was off. This was our last trip out so I didn't use it any more. I got home and cycled it several times and it worked right every time.
The second time was kinda similar. I was on a little hill. (steep little booger though, with a quick crest) I got a little high-centered cresting and got hung up. I came to a complete stop and engaged both lockers. Lights came on and I crawled right up. (had to scratch at it a little). At the top there was a turn so I quickly turned off the front locker. Once completely leveled I stopped and turned off the rear. The light was blinking, Again there was nothing I could do to make it stop. I gave up and we started to move again. About 200 feet later it went out.
My question is... Is this normal? Does it sometimes take the locker a bit to disengage (or at least show disengaged)? I hate to take my Jeep to the dealer for something that may be somewhat normal. But I want to make sure it is right while under warranty. This is my first e-locker equipped rig so I am new to how they operate.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Both times I have had times where the Rear Locker hasn't wanted to disengage (or at least it isn't sending the disengaged signal back the the computer).
The first time was a pretty muddy day. I was going up a pretty steep grade and the rear started to loose grip. When the hill leveled I slowed to darn near a stop (although not stopped) and turned on the rear locker. (The next bit was rougher). It was definitely locked. I Got the the top of the hill and turned it off. The locker light went from lit to blinking. I tinkered with turning it on and off, taking from 4-Lo, to 4-Hi and even 2-Hi. I couldn't get it to stop blinking. The group started to move, so I gave up and we rolled toward camp. As I drove back to camp there were some tight turns on pretty solid ground. I'm pretty sure it was unlocked even though It was blinking. Got back to camp and cycled the ignition and it was off. This was our last trip out so I didn't use it any more. I got home and cycled it several times and it worked right every time.
The second time was kinda similar. I was on a little hill. (steep little booger though, with a quick crest) I got a little high-centered cresting and got hung up. I came to a complete stop and engaged both lockers. Lights came on and I crawled right up. (had to scratch at it a little). At the top there was a turn so I quickly turned off the front locker. Once completely leveled I stopped and turned off the rear. The light was blinking, Again there was nothing I could do to make it stop. I gave up and we started to move again. About 200 feet later it went out.
My question is... Is this normal? Does it sometimes take the locker a bit to disengage (or at least show disengaged)? I hate to take my Jeep to the dealer for something that may be somewhat normal. But I want to make sure it is right while under warranty. This is my first e-locker equipped rig so I am new to how they operate.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
The lockers in my 08 JKUR do the same thing. Sometimes they are picky about disengaging. If there is pressure on the locker (i.e. you stopped and the teeth are pressed hard against each other) they can not disengage. If I need mine to unlock right away I push in the clutch and let it roll backwards a bit (I'm talking just barely, like an inch or two). This releases the pressure and lets it fully unlock. Driving 200 feet or so for it to disengage is the same thing if the pressure was never released. It looks for the friction to be gone then retracts the locker.
Your light blinking when you disengage is telling you that it is trying so the electronics are working properly.
With such a new rig, I would say look through the owner's manual and if you are still unsure...take it to the dealer. It won't cost you anything and will give you piece of mind.
Your light blinking when you disengage is telling you that it is trying so the electronics are working properly.
With such a new rig, I would say look through the owner's manual and if you are still unsure...take it to the dealer. It won't cost you anything and will give you piece of mind.
Thanks for the info guys!
One thing that I didn't mention (sorry) is that I have done the "locker bypass mod". I left this out because I posted in the "stock" thread. The first issue I engaged it via the bypass, (actually my wife did for me and the switches are where she can reach from shot-gun). The second was with the factory button. There was no need to do it via my bypass switch it is just what we did. This is another reason I just don't want to roll it into the dealer. While I have verified that my adder has nothing to do with the issue. I will want to remove the mod to avoid finger pointing.
BTW -> I know and understand the light will blink when using the bypass to engage... It was the disengage that concerned me.
Thanks again for the info. This forum
s
One thing that I didn't mention (sorry) is that I have done the "locker bypass mod". I left this out because I posted in the "stock" thread. The first issue I engaged it via the bypass, (actually my wife did for me and the switches are where she can reach from shot-gun). The second was with the factory button. There was no need to do it via my bypass switch it is just what we did. This is another reason I just don't want to roll it into the dealer. While I have verified that my adder has nothing to do with the issue. I will want to remove the mod to avoid finger pointing.
BTW -> I know and understand the light will blink when using the bypass to engage... It was the disengage that concerned me.
Thanks again for the info. This forum
s
Take it to the dealer, the first time I used my in some mud/snow, it wouldn't disengage at all. I drove it for 3 days cuz the dealer was closed(3 day weekend from a holiday) the dealer replaced the locker assembly for free and gave me a free rental for 8 days. The rubi lockers are known from not disengaging


