Rubicon or Build
The situation is like this:
My current jeep is a 2016 Willys Wheeler JKU with 6-speed, manual windows and door locks, and Bluetooth. So far, the only upgrade is Kicker speakers to replace the units in the sound bar and the dash. You get the point - I haven't sunk anything into it except the car payments. It has short of 10K miles even though I got it in October of 2015. I've got a "company" car for work, but will retire pretty soon.
A few weeks ago, my wife and I accompanied some friends on a trail that tested our stock JKU, even with the Rubicon suspension, wheels and tires.
My buddy's is lifted with a 4 inch Mopar lift, running 35's, rock sliders, etc. And it is a Rubicon, with sway bar disco's, lockers, yada yada.
He aired down. I didn't out of concern for clearance (and I was right) and away we went to Crown King, AZ, the back way.
We bounced and banged our way along in his wake, still aired up and connected. Lockers would have been handy once, towards the end, and clearance for airing down larger tires would have prevented my spousal unit from reconsidering if she'd do that, again.
So I want to lift (first time ever, even though this is my 4th Jeep and 8th 4x4). And probably change gearing and add lockers (3.73 now...), reinforce the D-30 up front, and get 35's.
I'd use ARB air lockers, I think, and maybe a 4 inch lift, since I can see adding bumpers, a spare tire carrier, winch, etc. at some point down the road.
Before I shell out that kind of cash, would it be smarter to trade mine in on a '17 Rubicon and do the lift on that, skipping the gearing and locker upgrade hassle (finding someone to do the work professionally and well)? Seems almost like a wash, cost-wise. I think I'd be $10-14K from a mid-range Rubicon with Mopar lift, probably about the same $$ into upgrading what I have now.
Any big pitfalls or negatives to going after-market, besides keeping the Dana 30 front axle and diff?
Either way, this won't be a commuter car, but I do hope to put more than 5K a year on it from here on out.
My current jeep is a 2016 Willys Wheeler JKU with 6-speed, manual windows and door locks, and Bluetooth. So far, the only upgrade is Kicker speakers to replace the units in the sound bar and the dash. You get the point - I haven't sunk anything into it except the car payments. It has short of 10K miles even though I got it in October of 2015. I've got a "company" car for work, but will retire pretty soon.
A few weeks ago, my wife and I accompanied some friends on a trail that tested our stock JKU, even with the Rubicon suspension, wheels and tires.
My buddy's is lifted with a 4 inch Mopar lift, running 35's, rock sliders, etc. And it is a Rubicon, with sway bar disco's, lockers, yada yada.
He aired down. I didn't out of concern for clearance (and I was right) and away we went to Crown King, AZ, the back way.
We bounced and banged our way along in his wake, still aired up and connected. Lockers would have been handy once, towards the end, and clearance for airing down larger tires would have prevented my spousal unit from reconsidering if she'd do that, again.
So I want to lift (first time ever, even though this is my 4th Jeep and 8th 4x4). And probably change gearing and add lockers (3.73 now...), reinforce the D-30 up front, and get 35's.
I'd use ARB air lockers, I think, and maybe a 4 inch lift, since I can see adding bumpers, a spare tire carrier, winch, etc. at some point down the road.
Before I shell out that kind of cash, would it be smarter to trade mine in on a '17 Rubicon and do the lift on that, skipping the gearing and locker upgrade hassle (finding someone to do the work professionally and well)? Seems almost like a wash, cost-wise. I think I'd be $10-14K from a mid-range Rubicon with Mopar lift, probably about the same $$ into upgrading what I have now.
Any big pitfalls or negatives to going after-market, besides keeping the Dana 30 front axle and diff?
Either way, this won't be a commuter car, but I do hope to put more than 5K a year on it from here on out.
I personally wouldn't/haven't locked a 30. That's a lot of cash to throw at a weak ring and pinion. Even the rubicon axle tube is as weak as the 30 but it does have a stronger R&P. If you are gonna wheel it with any force I'd go aftermarket. That's my plan within a year or so.
It's all on how you plan to wheel and how you use the slimy peddle. But let's talk about the bumpy ride. Next time do yourself a favor and disconnect as soon as you get to the trail head. Your other half will be much much happier and so will you. It sounds like you plan on doing more trail rides than crawling. There are plenty of D-30's out there doing just fine. Figure out what size tire you plan to run then decide on gears. If you stay with the D30 I'd keep it open and toss a locker in the rear. Gearing, tire size, lift and one locker will make worlds of difference. Toss some quick discos on there to save your back at the trail head ;-)
Sounds like you would be better off with a rubicon. It is built for those that want a bit more capability over stock without being hard core. Since you finance your jeep you could roll a lift and bigger tires into the final cost of the jeep as dealer add ons and make payments on the whole thing. Dealers typically rape you on these add ons though. Its pretty typical to see 35's and a Mopar lift running up the bill $10k.
Lots to consider. Airing down and disconnecting the sway bars have to be on the menu if the Mrs. is to ever join me again. We bounced our brains out. That implies lift and tires, which might imply re-gearing in my case (from 3.73).
I don't really have any experience with locking differentials, and I've never disconnected a sway bar (easy I presume, with proper parts) so this part of the adventure is new to me.
The idea of re-gearing both and locking the back, leaving the front alone, kind of appeals because everything I've seen tells me locking will stress out the D30. If I do get more serious, it would be nice to have a more "bombproof" set-up, and the D30 doesn't seem suited for that.
I guess this is the Jeep tax.
The advantages I see in this approach are better gearing (4.56 or 4.88 instead of 4.10 in the Rubicon), added components that are at, or above, par with stock Rubicon, on-board air for airing-up (ARB), and keeping my nearly new Jeep.
The disadvantages are no electronic sway-bar disconnects, no D44 in front until I splurge, and living with the risk that the front end goes someday.
I don't really have any experience with locking differentials, and I've never disconnected a sway bar (easy I presume, with proper parts) so this part of the adventure is new to me.
The idea of re-gearing both and locking the back, leaving the front alone, kind of appeals because everything I've seen tells me locking will stress out the D30. If I do get more serious, it would be nice to have a more "bombproof" set-up, and the D30 doesn't seem suited for that.
I guess this is the Jeep tax.
The advantages I see in this approach are better gearing (4.56 or 4.88 instead of 4.10 in the Rubicon), added components that are at, or above, par with stock Rubicon, on-board air for airing-up (ARB), and keeping my nearly new Jeep.
The disadvantages are no electronic sway-bar disconnects, no D44 in front until I splurge, and living with the risk that the front end goes someday.
Look at how much would similarly outfitted Rubicon cost you and how much you would get for yours. Then look at the difference.
Rubicon is not on 35s so don't think about that for the moment.
Make a list of what you'd want: I believe you mentioned lockers, improved suspension and potentially better front axle. Would the difference pay for that? IMHO ARB is better then what Rubicon comes with so if the cost of upgrades costs less and gets you more then build. If not, buy the Rubi
My guess it'll be cheaper to build but y ou will end up upgrading more since you are already doing it and will go over budget
D30 vs d44..... I have a 97 XJ that I wheeled the hell out of at some point. It's on 35s and is geared at 4.88 with full Detroit. No issues. Gears are fine, never broke a shalf... only lost a ujoint twice because the c clip walked. Upgraded to alloys with fancy ujoint and never had issues since. Only weak spot is the plug welds between the tube and the housing. Welded that up (full circle around the tube to the housing on thr long side ) and been happy with the setup.
Btw, I have an XJ with 4.0 and exo and heavy bumper up front. That's heavier then JK front end which takes additional toll on the axle. I do stay away from mud though which might be d30 killer
Food for thought.....
Rubicon is not on 35s so don't think about that for the moment.
Make a list of what you'd want: I believe you mentioned lockers, improved suspension and potentially better front axle. Would the difference pay for that? IMHO ARB is better then what Rubicon comes with so if the cost of upgrades costs less and gets you more then build. If not, buy the Rubi

My guess it'll be cheaper to build but y ou will end up upgrading more since you are already doing it and will go over budget

D30 vs d44..... I have a 97 XJ that I wheeled the hell out of at some point. It's on 35s and is geared at 4.88 with full Detroit. No issues. Gears are fine, never broke a shalf... only lost a ujoint twice because the c clip walked. Upgraded to alloys with fancy ujoint and never had issues since. Only weak spot is the plug welds between the tube and the housing. Welded that up (full circle around the tube to the housing on thr long side ) and been happy with the setup.
Btw, I have an XJ with 4.0 and exo and heavy bumper up front. That's heavier then JK front end which takes additional toll on the axle. I do stay away from mud though which might be d30 killer

Food for thought.....
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I think money wise you would be better off with a Rubicon. The Rubicon will offer you lockers in both front and rear, Electronic sway bar disconnect, D44 front and rear, 4:10 gearing and a 4:1 transfercase all with a factory warranty. Throw on a 2.5in lift and some 35's and you will be good to go.
Yes you can build up what you have now but how much time and money do you want to throw at it?
Yes you can build up what you have now but how much time and money do you want to throw at it?
My wife and I are new to Jeep and off-roading. We are not hard core, but like our Rubicon's capabilities and ease of transition between on and off-roading. It has handled everything we've thrown at her thus far. We installed new bumpers and are looking at winches. What do you do with your old, stock bumpers?
Had you posed the question of should I buy the Willys or the Rubicon, I would have said buy the Rubi; however, given you would be looking at trading yours in for probably a decent loss (dealer gonna need some margin) and shelling out more for the Rubi, I think you might be better off keeping your current jeep. The loss you'd most likely take would probably purchase an aftermarket front axle for you, then regear the rear to match. That upgrade alone would be a huge improvement. I'm not saying you NEED an aftermarket axle to do what you want, BUT, 1) it would be money better spent than taking a hit to trade yours in, and 2) building a D30 does not make sense. Speng $125-$150 and get some good quick disconnects for the next trip. If you feel like you need lift and tires, have at it. The Rubi sway bar disconnect is a nice convenience, but not the end all be all. The Rubi transfer case would be nice too, but I have not seen a single instance where that made the difference between someone making it through and obstacle and I couldn't with a non-rubi TC.









