Should I sell me super faulty CRD Jeep?
#1
JK Newbie
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Should I sell me super faulty CRD Jeep?
Okay so,
I bought a 2-door JK CRD here in Australia in September 2009.
At about 25000km (15000 miles) the engine seized due to lack of oil.
The car was sitting in the dealership for a month before they decided to replace the shortblock (which didn't end up happening due to logistics and procurement times, so they decided to have it rebuilt). - The engine logged no codes before this major failure happened.
After that, the vehicle was making some "wooooo" noises, and the oil pressure light was coming on, which turned out to be the turbo, which had no bearings left and lots of shaft-play... So the turbo was deemed the reason the engine had no oil and seized. - The replaced the oil pressure sensor (deemed faulty)
The strange part is, it didn't seem to be blowing smoke... and if it was, it was only noticable at night when taking off from a stand still.
For a year after that, the car was still coming up with the same oil pressure problems, whilst driving on country roads - 110kph (Maximum allowed speed on country/rural highways)...
It's also been making a ticking noise..
Anyway, I took it back, to a different dealership, they took it in, replaced the oil pressure sensor (as for the second time around, it was faulty apparently), dumped the oil, realised that there was alot less oil than it should have had in it.. and then again, the bearings on the crank were chewed up, so they checked the oil pump(which wasn't replaced when it was rebuilt) and that too was also chewed up and blocked, so that was replaced, then they ordered a new short block, installed that, and haven't been able to source a head gasket for 3 months...
Anyway, they've finally received the parts they needed to complete the work... and the engines being assembled as we speak...
Who thinks I should get rid of it as soon as I get it back? - its 3 years old and has been in the dealership for about 7 months (collective number) since I bought it.
I bought a 2-door JK CRD here in Australia in September 2009.
At about 25000km (15000 miles) the engine seized due to lack of oil.
The car was sitting in the dealership for a month before they decided to replace the shortblock (which didn't end up happening due to logistics and procurement times, so they decided to have it rebuilt). - The engine logged no codes before this major failure happened.
After that, the vehicle was making some "wooooo" noises, and the oil pressure light was coming on, which turned out to be the turbo, which had no bearings left and lots of shaft-play... So the turbo was deemed the reason the engine had no oil and seized. - The replaced the oil pressure sensor (deemed faulty)
The strange part is, it didn't seem to be blowing smoke... and if it was, it was only noticable at night when taking off from a stand still.
For a year after that, the car was still coming up with the same oil pressure problems, whilst driving on country roads - 110kph (Maximum allowed speed on country/rural highways)...
It's also been making a ticking noise..
Anyway, I took it back, to a different dealership, they took it in, replaced the oil pressure sensor (as for the second time around, it was faulty apparently), dumped the oil, realised that there was alot less oil than it should have had in it.. and then again, the bearings on the crank were chewed up, so they checked the oil pump(which wasn't replaced when it was rebuilt) and that too was also chewed up and blocked, so that was replaced, then they ordered a new short block, installed that, and haven't been able to source a head gasket for 3 months...
Anyway, they've finally received the parts they needed to complete the work... and the engines being assembled as we speak...
Who thinks I should get rid of it as soon as I get it back? - its 3 years old and has been in the dealership for about 7 months (collective number) since I bought it.
#3
Sounds to me that they never cleaned the internal parts good on your 1st failure.
The Oil cooler(if you have one) Should always be replaced when there has been bearing damage.
Oil pumps and pick-up tubes also should be replaced
all oil passages and lines should be cleaned out... including the head
I would hope they are more careful on this new rebuild, or you will be in the same situation.
Cleaning is THE most important part of a rebuild. Debris can be everywhere and this is what can take out cranks, rods, heads, turbos, etc.
The Oil cooler(if you have one) Should always be replaced when there has been bearing damage.
Oil pumps and pick-up tubes also should be replaced
all oil passages and lines should be cleaned out... including the head
I would hope they are more careful on this new rebuild, or you will be in the same situation.
Cleaning is THE most important part of a rebuild. Debris can be everywhere and this is what can take out cranks, rods, heads, turbos, etc.
#4
JK Newbie
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As it turns out, this time round, oil pump has been replaced, new bottom end, there was no metals in the oil test but a bearing had failed, not yet spun.
The workshop foreman says Chrysler has told them to flush everything out, the head doesn't look noticeably worn, and they're fitting it all together as of today.
I really don't want to sell the Jeep but it scares the hell out of me that it might happen again.
Chrysler Australia is extending the vehicles warranty by a year...So that gives me time to fix any other noticeable problems.
I change my oil every 5000kms - They recommend 5w-30 which is odd.
If I keep it, I'm not sure how I can look after it any better to prevent anything like this happening.
The workshop foreman says Chrysler has told them to flush everything out, the head doesn't look noticeably worn, and they're fitting it all together as of today.
I really don't want to sell the Jeep but it scares the hell out of me that it might happen again.
Chrysler Australia is extending the vehicles warranty by a year...So that gives me time to fix any other noticeable problems.
I change my oil every 5000kms - They recommend 5w-30 which is odd.
If I keep it, I'm not sure how I can look after it any better to prevent anything like this happening.
#5
JK Newbie
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Had to create a facebook group
The car has now been in the shop since the 26th December 2011, it is now the 5th of June 2012.
Please visit my facebook page, and read the top story - https://www.facebook.com/UnreliableJeepWrangler
Chrysler is doing absolutely nothing - Ive told them I want a replacement vehicle/refund, as it's a lemon.
Will be buying a TJ if I actually get money back
Please visit my facebook page, and read the top story - https://www.facebook.com/UnreliableJeepWrangler
Chrysler is doing absolutely nothing - Ive told them I want a replacement vehicle/refund, as it's a lemon.
Will be buying a TJ if I actually get money back
#6
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Originally Posted by larnert
The car has now been in the shop since the 26th December 2011, it is now the 5th of June 2012.
Please visit my facebook page, and read the top story - https://www.facebook.com/UnreliableJeepWrangler
Chrysler is doing absolutely nothing - Ive told them I want a replacement vehicle/refund, as it's a lemon.
Will be buying a TJ if I actually get money back
Please visit my facebook page, and read the top story - https://www.facebook.com/UnreliableJeepWrangler
Chrysler is doing absolutely nothing - Ive told them I want a replacement vehicle/refund, as it's a lemon.
Will be buying a TJ if I actually get money back
#7
JK Super Freak
Right, I've wanted a CRD since I found them available everywhere but over here - now I am not so sure. How many other CRD owners have had problems with their engines?
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#8
Originally Posted by zstairlessone
Right, I've wanted a CRD since I found them available everywhere but over here - now I am not so sure. How many other CRD owners have had problems with their engines?
#9
JK Super Freak
The main issue here (in Australia anyway) has been with in the past year or so when we adopted the stricter Euro emmissions requirements and Crysler started fitting DPFs to them which have caused nothing but trouble for many owners. the motors on many brand new motors with only a few hundred miles on them will throw codes and go into limp mode, and have all the mechanics back at the dealership standing around scratching their heads after the thing is brought in on a flat-top. I think recently there has been some luck solving this issue by fitting different (and bigger) DPFs to them and altering the purge cycle settings.