Stock Control Arm replacement
10-19-2017, 01:00 PM
#11
Super Moderator
Are you talking about replacing all 8 control arms or just the stereo typical front lowers?
Karl talked me into loosening all my control arm bolts while I was installing my lift, which was great and much appreciated advise that I don't regret one bit but I'll tell ya, it wasn't a joy ride doing it and that was just loosening the bolts and not actually pulling off the arms and replacing them where getting those holes to line back up on install can be a bit tedious.
Personally, if it's all 8. I would likely go the repaint route and additionally take your buddies arms off his hands and do them 2 at a time in my spare time when I felt really ambitious to do some work without no real value in return.
If it's just the 2 front lowers, then no brainer. Swap them and be done.
Karl talked me into loosening all my control arm bolts while I was installing my lift, which was great and much appreciated advise that I don't regret one bit but I'll tell ya, it wasn't a joy ride doing it and that was just loosening the bolts and not actually pulling off the arms and replacing them where getting those holes to line back up on install can be a bit tedious.
Personally, if it's all 8. I would likely go the repaint route and additionally take your buddies arms off his hands and do them 2 at a time in my spare time when I felt really ambitious to do some work without no real value in return.
If it's just the 2 front lowers, then no brainer. Swap them and be done.
Last edited by Rednroll; 10-19-2017 at 01:06 PM.
10-21-2017, 10:22 AM
#12
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Sorry for the late reply to this thread. While my wrenching skills are getting better, this one seems like I'll need to have a friend who knows more help me out for sure. I will definitely jump on those control arms now and take my time putting them in. Im lifetime powertrain so I plan on going the distance with this thing if possible. The under carriage is getting very badly rusty along with the axles and diff covers. The diff covers look like they may be weeping slightly too but Im not sure if they replace that under lifetime powertrain.
The lift is an OME HD 2" 619, 617 coils but recently I put the HD coils in the rear because of the LOD rear bumper and tire carrier. All new shocks at the same time. I may do new front coils now and get it over with also. Anything after 200k is a bonus in my head and I use the JK for trips in Baja so it's gonna get some heavy miles this winter.
The lift is an OME HD 2" 619, 617 coils but recently I put the HD coils in the rear because of the LOD rear bumper and tire carrier. All new shocks at the same time. I may do new front coils now and get it over with also. Anything after 200k is a bonus in my head and I use the JK for trips in Baja so it's gonna get some heavy miles this winter.
10-23-2017, 06:19 AM
#13
JK Jedi
No need to make this more complex that it is. It’s not THAT difficult, especially since you are replacing with the same fixed length arms. Up front you don’t even have to remove the tires. Remove one arm at a time, replace with new. Outside of the upper frame side bolt that may or may not be a booger due to exhaust, it’s literally removing 2 bolts per arm. You might need a breaker bar, but that is handy to have anyhow. An impact wrench is helpful, but this is a basic hand too job. You should already have a torque wrench. Torque bolts to spec…..with specs readily available online. Also as noted earlier, you don’t have to do them all at once….just when you have time.
Speaking of torque specs…..I have printed out 3 pages of specs, laminated them, and keep them in the pocket on the back of my seat. I can’t tell you how many times those sheets have been referenced. When I install an aftermarket component that might have a different bolt spec, I make a note to the side so I can see the original factory spec, and my new aftermarket spec.
When installing up front, put the frame side bolts in first. If the axle side doesn’t line up perfectly (although it should since same fixed length arms), place a jack under the diff or under the pinion (depending which direction you need to rotate the axle) to roll the axle just enough to get the bolt to line up in the axle-side bracket. If for some reason you ever had the jeep on jack stands….just note that control arm bolts are torque under load and not while the jeep is suspended in air.
In the rear you have to remove the tires in order to access the upper arms. If you have bump stops back there, you may need to remove those as well (since you’re stock you might not have to deal with that). Again, having a helper getting the frame side upper arm in place is helpful….just cuz it’s awkward to hold that nut/bracket while trying to hold the arm and get the bolt through. Note again….torque these bolts once tires are back on and jeep is on the ground under load.
In regards to diff covers…..I doubt they’d replace the cover. They’d likely just remove the cover and add some new RTV. This is something you could do as well should you care. Drain the gear oil, remove the diff cover bolts. You’d most likely need to knock the side of the cover a time or two with a rubber mallet in order to break it lose from the RTV. Once cover is off, you’ll need to scrape/clean all old RTV off the cover and face of the diff. At this point you can get a nice look at your gearing as well and make sure you don’t see any abnormal wear or chunks out of the teeth. When reinstalling the cover you have 2 options. You can use a good RTV like Permatex “the Right Stuff”, or you can use a LubeLocker which runs ~$15 or so. The LubeLockers are nice as they can be re-used a couple times and don’t require scraping any old RTV off next time. Then, just fill up with fresh gear oil again. Service interval on gear oil is 15k miles…..so this is something you should be doing on a regular basis. If you have limited slip diff in the rear, you just need to be certain you’re using an oil with an additive for the LSD.
Pat yourself on the back and enjoy a cold beverage.
Speaking of torque specs…..I have printed out 3 pages of specs, laminated them, and keep them in the pocket on the back of my seat. I can’t tell you how many times those sheets have been referenced. When I install an aftermarket component that might have a different bolt spec, I make a note to the side so I can see the original factory spec, and my new aftermarket spec.
When installing up front, put the frame side bolts in first. If the axle side doesn’t line up perfectly (although it should since same fixed length arms), place a jack under the diff or under the pinion (depending which direction you need to rotate the axle) to roll the axle just enough to get the bolt to line up in the axle-side bracket. If for some reason you ever had the jeep on jack stands….just note that control arm bolts are torque under load and not while the jeep is suspended in air.
In the rear you have to remove the tires in order to access the upper arms. If you have bump stops back there, you may need to remove those as well (since you’re stock you might not have to deal with that). Again, having a helper getting the frame side upper arm in place is helpful….just cuz it’s awkward to hold that nut/bracket while trying to hold the arm and get the bolt through. Note again….torque these bolts once tires are back on and jeep is on the ground under load.
In regards to diff covers…..I doubt they’d replace the cover. They’d likely just remove the cover and add some new RTV. This is something you could do as well should you care. Drain the gear oil, remove the diff cover bolts. You’d most likely need to knock the side of the cover a time or two with a rubber mallet in order to break it lose from the RTV. Once cover is off, you’ll need to scrape/clean all old RTV off the cover and face of the diff. At this point you can get a nice look at your gearing as well and make sure you don’t see any abnormal wear or chunks out of the teeth. When reinstalling the cover you have 2 options. You can use a good RTV like Permatex “the Right Stuff”, or you can use a LubeLocker which runs ~$15 or so. The LubeLockers are nice as they can be re-used a couple times and don’t require scraping any old RTV off next time. Then, just fill up with fresh gear oil again. Service interval on gear oil is 15k miles…..so this is something you should be doing on a regular basis. If you have limited slip diff in the rear, you just need to be certain you’re using an oil with an additive for the LSD.
Pat yourself on the back and enjoy a cold beverage.
10-23-2017, 04:09 PM
#14
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Seriously thanks for all the great posts. I will definitely give this a try on my own. I lost the control arms. The guy also had them on Craigs List and someone offered him $300 for them. So now I have to wait for a new set with low miles. He said he would still give them to me because he is a nice dude but I didn't want him to lose $300 of mods for his jk. I do have access to an impact wrench so I will try that for sure.
I guess I could ask them at the dealer to do the diff covers and if they say no I'll do it myself. I'm not really worried about that job in my garage but I figured if I was going to pull the cover why would I bother putting the old one back. I'd be better off replacing with an aftermarket cover and I believe there is a gasket that has multiple barriers of support to help protect it even further. But then would aftermarket covers void my warranty in anyway on the axles.
I guess I could ask them at the dealer to do the diff covers and if they say no I'll do it myself. I'm not really worried about that job in my garage but I figured if I was going to pull the cover why would I bother putting the old one back. I'd be better off replacing with an aftermarket cover and I believe there is a gasket that has multiple barriers of support to help protect it even further. But then would aftermarket covers void my warranty in anyway on the axles.
10-23-2017, 04:45 PM
#15
Super Moderator
You shouldn't pay more than $50-100 for the arms, they go for $25/ set in my area.
On the diff cover- I was in a similar spot when my stock covers kept leaking. The dealer wouldn't install my LubeLockers and they said anything like that would void the warranty. The RTV is seriously a failure point, you notice a huge difference when you peel the stock covers open with the LL- they just don't leak.
Mopar does offer diff covers that would be covered under warranty but you'll be paying some serious bucks for them and the dealer may ask for the $275/ axle for "service" (drain, rtv, fill, cash your check).
Good luck and keep rocking that lifetime factory warranty
On the diff cover- I was in a similar spot when my stock covers kept leaking. The dealer wouldn't install my LubeLockers and they said anything like that would void the warranty. The RTV is seriously a failure point, you notice a huge difference when you peel the stock covers open with the LL- they just don't leak.
Mopar does offer diff covers that would be covered under warranty but you'll be paying some serious bucks for them and the dealer may ask for the $275/ axle for "service" (drain, rtv, fill, cash your check).
Good luck and keep rocking that lifetime factory warranty
10-24-2017, 05:38 AM
#16
JK Jedi
I can't believe ANYONE would pay $300 for a set of factory control arms! 
I guess it only takes one sucker, so kudos to your buddy that sold em!
Fortunately time is on your side, and brand new factory arms come off daily. Just keep your eyes peeled. I'd agree with Karl on pricing.....you're in the catbird seat on this one!
If you're concerned about the warranty, I'd just remove the diff cover, clean off the old RTV, and replace with new RTV. It's an easy job, and a benefit of doing it is you get to lay your eyes on the internals....see how gears are wearing and such. If there ever was an issue.......are they so picky that a service tech is going to analyze the old RTV when removing the cover and try to determine if it's the same stuff they use in their service department?
I just changed my rear gear oil last night. I always remove the cover to inspect the gears....and man, a lubelocker is so convenient
I guess it only takes one sucker, so kudos to your buddy that sold em!Fortunately time is on your side, and brand new factory arms come off daily. Just keep your eyes peeled. I'd agree with Karl on pricing.....you're in the catbird seat on this one!
If you're concerned about the warranty, I'd just remove the diff cover, clean off the old RTV, and replace with new RTV. It's an easy job, and a benefit of doing it is you get to lay your eyes on the internals....see how gears are wearing and such. If there ever was an issue.......are they so picky that a service tech is going to analyze the old RTV when removing the cover and try to determine if it's the same stuff they use in their service department?
I just changed my rear gear oil last night. I always remove the cover to inspect the gears....and man, a lubelocker is so convenient
10-26-2017, 07:53 AM
#17
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Ok I'll pull the covers and take some pics of what the gears look like and maybe you guys can help me out if you see anything chipped. I change the diffs at 30k but I'll step it down to 20 since it's easy enough.
Is the weight 80w-90 or 75w-90? I can only seem to find the mobile 75w-90 with the limited slip add on.
Is the weight 80w-90 or 75w-90? I can only seem to find the mobile 75w-90 with the limited slip add on.
10-26-2017, 09:01 AM
#18
JK Jedi
Ok I'll pull the covers and take some pics of what the gears look like and maybe you guys can help me out if you see anything chipped. I change the diffs at 30k but I'll step it down to 20 since it's easy enough.
Is the weight 80w-90 or 75w-90? I can only seem to find the mobile 75w-90 with the limited slip add on.
Is the weight 80w-90 or 75w-90? I can only seem to find the mobile 75w-90 with the limited slip add on.
Sure hope you don't see anything chipped!
Chances are slim, but always nice to look for peace of mind....specially since you have some miles on em.
10-29-2017, 07:21 AM
#19
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
What is the RTV sealant that would not get me into trouble with lifetime powertrain. I plan on wire wheel brush the cover and spraying it up flat black to get rid of the rust. I'll clean up the bolts and spray the heads of them also.
And also, I want to clean the throttle body next weekend when I do this job. Does anyone know which o-ring I should order? It's a 2008 3.8. I would rather just get the mopar even though it is sooooo expensive.
MOPAR 4666113AA
USED WITH 04781578AM INTAKE MANIFOLD PLENUM FLUSH LIP - $9.99
or
MOPAR 4593899AA
USED WITH 04781578AP INTAKE MANIFOLD PLENUM RECESSED LIP - $27.89
Im on the rock auto website.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/j...dy+gasket,6474
And also, I want to clean the throttle body next weekend when I do this job. Does anyone know which o-ring I should order? It's a 2008 3.8. I would rather just get the mopar even though it is sooooo expensive.
MOPAR 4666113AA
USED WITH 04781578AM INTAKE MANIFOLD PLENUM FLUSH LIP - $9.99
or
MOPAR 4593899AA
USED WITH 04781578AP INTAKE MANIFOLD PLENUM RECESSED LIP - $27.89
Im on the rock auto website.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/j...dy+gasket,6474
Last edited by EHarris; 10-29-2017 at 08:19 AM.
10-30-2017, 07:03 AM
#20
JK Jedi
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/
That can is like ~$20 at the auto stores, but lasts several jobs. Think you can buy it in a 3oz can too. I can't speak to it being "approved" in regards to warranty, but I can't fathom a tech saying you didn't use an approved RTV, or how they would identify it. Stuff works well and sets quickly.
