The wider tire may require spacers.


I have stock rubicon rims and tires and did NOT need the spacers. If I go wider, I probably will need either different rims or spacers.

 

If you use the front sway bar links and install them as instructed, they could rub on your stock rims, spacers or new rims would be required.

I would suggest 1.5" spidertrax.

 

Thank you!

 

Thanks! I mean, even if I don't need them, should I use them, does it give the Jeep a better (wider) stance? 5x5? Thanks again. Pat

 

Wider stance?? Yes. Better? that is up to you.
Match the bolt pattern of your hub, 5x5.

 

I put this on my jku with 18" sahara wheels and have no issue without spacers. The rear links have plenty of room between them and the tire/wheel. The front links also have over an inch of room. You would have to put a considerably wider tire to require spacers. With that said, be sure you take a quick digital photo of the links and all the bolts you remove so you can reference how they go back on. I got lucky and just looked at my wifes jku when i got lost. Remember to loosen all the control arms and front and rear track bar too. Retorque to spec once the weight is back on the axle. The instructions fail to tell you that....They also omit the fact that removing the rear track bar is a must to get the rear to go down enough for re-installation of the springs. GOOD LUCK!

 

Spacers are only needed when running larger tires on the factory rims, they space the rim out to proved more width of larger tires and can be used to change bolt patterns. With a leveling kit you would not need spacers unless you want to upgrade your tires....hope this helps.

 

i didn't loosen the control arms or trac bars, for the front doing one side at a time you get plenty of drop to reinstall the coils with the spacers, the rear is a PITA i rented a coil compressor and used straps to make the rear coils small enough to fit with the new spacers. This is just what i did, it mite be easer to do it as stated above just saying another way to do it.

 

I only loosened the control arms after talking with another member of this forum. The bushings in the control arms are torqued and super tight, set for the factory ride height. Once I had the kit on i drove for a week and was happy as could be. Then i was told about the bushings being twisted due to not loosening them and retorqueing at the new height. So, I crawled under and started breaking stuff loose. I heard some of the weirdest noises ever (was the bushings untwisting themselves). If you dont loosen them up and retorque at the new height they will be binding and will wear out prematurely. The rear was not as noticeable since its only 1" lift and not much twist on the bushing. The front, definitely needed it. But, if you're looking for a reason to replace the stock rubber bushings with some super cool urethane ones, leave em alone....