If you check and see that the cable by the transfer case is still attached and the 30 cent bushing from hell is not cracked... there is another one under the shifter lever that will have to be accessed by removing the console. This one will pop easier than the one near the transfer case. Basically they rot from wear and tear. I perma fixed mine with a cotter pin. Also look around on the forums for infamous "zip tie" fix for the one near the transfer case.

 

Nice I will search for it in case I don't can't fix it how much do you think they would charge? I've only engaged it maybe only 7 times I had my JK. Is it really urgent I fix it?

 

if you dont use your 4x4 i wouldnt think it is really an urgent fix. i dont use mine much either so i stopped by a dealership and picked up the bushings then finally put it on maybe a week or so later just because i got bored and wanted a reason to drink a beer in the garage.

 

Thanks another good excuse to drink haha.

 

Same problem here.

I just got back from a jamboree-type weekend, and as I was exiting the trail, I also had a loose shifter. Wouldn't come out of 4-Lo.

The trail mechanic did a quick zip tie fix for me to keep it in 2-Hi .

I was hoping it'd be covered by warranty, but it's only a $.30 part??

Is there an aftermarket part which is different/stronger???

I have a hard time understanding how the crux of what a Jeep does (shifts to 4-Lo and owns trails) revolves on whether a little plastic part can remain intact!!

 

Definitively do reinforce it with a cotter pin or go to your local Parts store and ask for 2 C-Washers (these are the open end washers that hold the brake drum shoes to the holding pin, the parts person will know)

1- remove your center console to access the transfer case lever. (the transfer case lever knob pops out by pulling on it)

2- clamp the C-Washer (closing the open end until it sufficiently adjusts) at the end of the pin (attachment point) that holds the cable to the t-case lever, reinstall center console and lever knob.

3- get under the driver's side floor and access the t-case cable and selector.

4- clamp the C-Washer (closing the open end until it sufficiently adjusts) at the end of the pin (attachment point) that holds the cable to the t-case selector. You're done.

Now you should never had a problem again with your t-case lever going inoperable because of an unattached cable. Do yourself a favor and do this in your driveway, it'll be better than in the mud (ask me how I know!). It's a good idea to install new bushings at both ends of the t-case cable so that you don't end up with a loose lever.

For transfer case operation refer to the owners manual but it goes something like this (and it works as described)

1- You can engage / disengage 4HI up to 30mph as the transfer case has a synchronizer for 4HI. The transmission can be in any gear.

2- To engage / disengage 4LO let the vehicle roll up to about 2-3mph, this is to help the mechanism engage / disengage as it doesn't have a synchronizer for 4LO,
put the transmission in Neutral then engage / disengage.

Hope this helps

 

That was a ton of help Thanks Man went to the dealership said it was fine and normal and they would fix it for free if it gets real bad

 

I thought you were supposed to be at full stop to switch into 4LO?? good to know I guess haha.

 

try doing it both ways and you'll notice that doing it in a roll is the easiest (and correct)way since you're not forcing the t-case linkage/gears, nothing will be damaged ,, try it !!

 

Sure is a lot of threads on this subject. Mine broke last weekend so I called my local Jeep dealer to see if he had any of those bushing clips in stock. He didn't have any and said he never heard of it happening. No worries though, he ordered some and I got three of those .35c bushings the next day. Gotta have extra's but I think I'll zip tie it too