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Transmission Fluid Maintenance Question

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Old Aug 8, 2021 | 05:29 PM
  #11  
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SuzyJ - glad it worked out for you. Definitely peace of mind and just darn good practice to change often.
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Old Aug 9, 2021 | 05:01 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by SuzyJeeper
I have a 2017 Wrangler with 40K on it. When would you suggest I change the Transmission Fluid. It’s an automatic.
Thank you
  • think manual says 60000
  • always good idea to READ it
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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 06:29 AM
  #13  
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Default change fluid and filter or only fluid

I bought a 2015 JKU sahara automatic from the original owner. It only has 53,000 miles. The owner basically babied the car on weekends only. I shopped around to my local dealer and 2 independent mechanics that I have used in the past and no one wants to change the transmission filter. The jeep has 33 inch tires on it and I am concerned that the larger tires put more strain on the transmission. Does having larger tires put the jeep in the 60,000 mile category?

If so, can I get away with just sucking out the fluid and replacing it without dropping the pan and replacing the filter? I've looked online and dropping the pan looks like a PITA job because of clearance issues with the cross member below the pan. I called a tranmission shop to do the whole job and they want about $500. Thanks.
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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 07:04 AM
  #14  
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I'd change the filter too, even though it's a bit of a pain. When you drop the pan there's likely to be some particles and maybe a bit of sludge. Cleaning that all out and changing the filter will ensure your brand-new fluid won't be contaminated by any existing reminants.

I think what many people miss is the manual has both time and distance, which means if you go much past the time (6 years for transmission fluid), it is well into its natural breakdown cycle. Can you go longer? Sure, but at what risk?

I guess the decision is to try it yourself or fork over the bucks for someone else to do it. Or, to say it another way, how much do you value your time vs how bad do you want to hang on to your Benjamins?
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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 07:11 AM
  #15  
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Thanks for your input. I think you are right. I guess I'll bite the bullet and just get the whole job done. Do you suggest having the driveline serviced at the same time (front and read diffs and transfer case)?
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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 09:48 AM
  #16  
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If the front and rear diffs and transfer case has never been touched, or if there is any doubt that they have been touched, I'd say yes - change 'em out too! There are no filters to worry about so they are a simple drain and refill. The transfer case is a bit easier than the transmissions, and the diffs are super easy - if you have drain plugs. IMO, there's no reason to crack the diff covers open if you don't have any issues. Some might say that it's a good time to inspect for any unusual wear - which is true - but I just crack mine open every other change. If you decide to crack open the diffs, clean them out good with break cleaner, clean off all the old gasket material, wipe everything down, and admire your work for a bit. If you want to spend a bit more, and plan to maybe do the diffs more often in the future, I highly recommend getting a LubeLocker gasket. Makes cracking open easier, it seals great, and can be used many times. Likely longer than your Jeep!

Edit: I should add if you simply drain your differentials by way of the drain plug, keep an eye on the color and texture of the oil. If it is gray or brown, or has colored streaks, then it's time to crack open the diff cover to inspect and thoroughly clean. If it's just an even dark, or better yet, a nice golden "new oil look", everything is likely OK.

Others can chime in if they have anything else they like to look for or have other opinions on the fluid change issue! There are as many opinions as there are, um, people!

Last edited by AZJeeper; Mar 6, 2025 at 10:57 AM.
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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 10:08 AM
  #17  
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Should you care, a common mod is to re-route the exhaust crossover to behind the cross-member. Most people do this to gain clearance with their front driveshaft when wheeling. one side benefit is it gets it out of the way from that transmission pan. Even then that rear most bolt is a pain to get and requires a small bit driver to access. the only downside is moving the exhaust closer to the fuel tank, so you really need to protect that fuel tank corner and fuel lines with good heat wrap. back in the day, you could get a mom and pop muffler shop by handing them $50 on the side of the building. these days that might be more like $100.
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