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Using adjustable ball joints to repair camber issue

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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 11:24 AM
  #1  
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Default Using adjustable ball joints to repair camber issue

My jeep pulls to the right. I had it alligned and the tech stated the camber is off, the driver side tire is -.7 degrees and the passenger side is +.3 degrees. A full 1 degree split toward the right. Everything else is in check.

Here is the question... Would i correct the positive camber with a 1 degree adjustable ball joint and make it negative? Or correct the side that is -.7 and make it positive?
Side note the +.3 was in the green on the machine and the -.7 was in red. I am leaning toward both being +.3


Also are the adjustables from napa that are greasable a decent ball joint?

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Chris
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 11:36 AM
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If your camber is off then your axle or C is likely bent. The adjustable ball joints will only be a band-aid over the gunshot. I would suggest check for a used and straight axle.

Did your alignment guy suggest that or was he simply telling you the camber is out of spec?

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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 12:07 PM
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He suggested it being a way to correct it. It isnt horrible really and I probably could live with it the way it is. He did say its not enough to cause wear.

The pull is just kinda annoying.

Is there adverse effects of an adjustable ball joint?
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 12:21 PM
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You could truss and gusset the front, using pretension to help correct it. Then use those adjustable ball joints to really dial it in. That would be a about the cheapest way to do it. A new housing from jeep is between $1500-1900, a new dynatrac one is $2100 but some times you can find them on sale. If you went with a new housing you would have to set up the ring and pinion, and might as well gusset and truss it (stock housing). Going used, you don't know what you're going to get. But gusset the inner C's and you can stop further damage and you might even be able to heat and possible bend the inner C's back to where they should, then a couple good tack weld on the gussets. Haven't tried this yet but it's something to look into.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 02:20 PM
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Spec is -0.25 with a tolerance of +/- 0.63. That means you can be anywhere from -0.88 to +0.38 and still be within factory limits.

I think you are OK where you stand. The spread may be a little high?


BTW - How is you steering box preload?
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sahara Lee
Spec is -0.25 with a tolerance of +/- 0.63. That means you can be anywhere from -0.88 to +0.38 and still be within factory limits.

I think you are OK where you stand. The spread may be a little high?


BTW - How is you steering box preload?
I was thinking the camber spec is -0.25° ±0.37° (-0.62° to +0.12°) Max left/right difference ±0.5°
According to the service manual.

Last edited by ronjenx; Oct 21, 2013 at 02:36 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
I was thinking the camber spec is -0.25° ±0.37° (-0.62° to +0.12°) Max left/right difference ±0.5°
According to the service manual.
Jedi Master, You may be correct. I don't have a service manual. I was going by Rancho's instructions that came with my lift.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 04:36 PM
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i swore ive heard of peoples camber being out of spec from the factory? but yes ball adjustable ball joints would fix that. You will need to know how you are off.
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 10:49 AM
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Thanks for all the replies! The alignment specs were very helpful.

I am going with a .5 degree ball joint on each side to dial each wheel in at around -.2 degrees which should be perfect.

Chris
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by renegade4x4
Thanks for all the replies! The alignment specs were very helpful.

I am going with a .5 degree ball joint on each side to dial each wheel in at around -.2 degrees which should be perfect.

Chris
And a set of gussets to help prevent or minimize further bending.
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