That's just not far enough for a difference due to oil viscosity to show.

So, what other reason would so many manufactures go to lighter oil, then?

 

I'm sure that's why they are doing it, I just don't want to partake.

 

Oh. I see what you meant, now.
I went to 5W-30.

 

I would go back and get it changed I bought a quart of 10w-30 for mine and it clattered and had a slight loss of power which did not go away until I had it changed. I wouldn't have thought it either but that was my experience.

 

Well, can't argue with an actual experience, but I don't see how one quart in six can do that.

 

I don't mean to be that ass-hat that comes along with advice that is too late, but NEVER take your vehicle to Wally World for an oil change. My wife took her car there ONCE to get her oil changed. They shorted her a quart, and on top of that, they must've put the drain plug back on with an impact wrench or something. It was S-T-U-C-K the next time I changed her oil. I actually had to take it back to Wal-Mart and tell them to loosen the damn plug. Now, I don't profess to be some sort of he-man or anything, but I've done construction most of my life, and can wrench if I have to, but I could not get that plug to budge with my ratchet. Come to find out, not only did they use an impact wrench on it, but they put effin' Lock-Tite on the threads! Who the f-ck does that?! LockTite? Really? On a frickin' drain plug?

Long story a little shorter: Just do it yourself.

Jason

 

a noticable power decline and engine clattering caused by a switch to 10W30 strains my personal experience with engines and oils. The cushioning effect of the 30W oil film would decrease any appreciable noise on a relatively new engine. If your engine is so ''tight'' that a 30 weight oil film binds the engine and causes power loss then this is a set of circumstances that need to be investigated. Too loose on one hand and too tight on the other.... The older engines with geared oil pumps would pump straight 50W with no decrease in volume or lubing. If anything the lighter oils would decrease oiling pressure due to bearing leakage and thinnerfilm cushion. My 2 cents

 

There is NO substitute for FILM THICKNESS- NONE. Miracle oil formulas, double oil filters, changing your oil every other day won't help you. Only film thickness. Your engine wouldn't last 5 minutes without a cushioning film of oil on every part. NO part inside your engine actually touches another. The oil film on each part seperates them. The cam, crankshaft and bearings are NOT cooled by your radiator like the heads and cylinders are. These bottom end parts are not only lubricated by the oil, they are cooled by it. This is why 6 quarts of oil are required on this vehicle, not 5. A heavy vehicle being run on lite-weight oil bothers me, since I am a fan of film thickness which I feel contributes to vehicle longevity. I've run Pennzoil dino 10w30 since 1988, over 980,000 miles and no INTERNAL engine repairs on any of my cars. NONE-NOT ONE. I don't baby my vehicles, I DRIVE them. Use 'em don't abuse them....

 

I run 10w-30 penzoil in my 07 now too. I've ran mobil 5-20, 5-30, both caused a noticable tick. Switch to 10w-30 penzoil, no tick, jeep is happy. Those other weights are just too freakin light imo. WTH happened to the days when you ran 10w-40 in everything? 20w-50 if you were burnin oil. The companies DON'T want these engines to run for 200,000m. The quicker you wear a vehicle out, the quicker they can sell you a new one.

 

MK I think you are right, normal wear and tear is NOT a warranty item. If your engine poops out due to WEAR, it won't be covered. The newer V/6's starting around 1990 were changed from 10W40 to 10W30. The reason was the oil drainback passage size in these smaller engines were decreased, this combined with the higher engine temps required by emmision systems resulted in head clogging deposits. Your engine ran great but one day you would fire it up and the damned thing would clatter and bang with NO oil showing on the dipstick. Add oil and wait 30 minutes and oil would run out the dipstick tube, LOL. All the oil would be pumped up into the valve covers but none would drain back into the oil pan, due to the clogged drain passages. Leave it set for an hour or two and the oil level would be normal. This was the beginning of lighter weight oil usage by the automakers....now it's for fuel economy. I cannot believe in real-world use that light-weight oils are a true benefit. It may help in dyno testing for CAFE figures, but this is speculation on my part.