There's nothing to it. It's used frequently at the local 1/4 mile track to keep times lower. It's tricky to get the hang of but not difficult or damaging (if done properly).

I practiced in my wifes Protege.

 

Not using your synchronizers when you shift without the clutch?
Seriously, I'm not trying to be a D%#head, but that is simply nonsensical.
I would agree that by shifting without the clutch it makes it impossible for them to do their job, but believe me, they'll be trying real hard.
Unless you are such a super duper gear grabber that the instant you apply pressure to the stick your rpm and road speed are matched perfectly and it slips right in, what happens during the time your engine is slowing down (or speeding back up if you screwed up the first time) is that you are engaging the synchronizers and they will try to speed up or slow down the mainshaft to match the output shaft speed. The problem is with your clutch engaged, they can't do that because they are no where near strong enough to speed up or slow down the engine. Heavy wear, localized heat, and even galling, is what may occur. The further off you are on your timing and the harder you apply pressure to the stick, the worse it will be.
If you're careful, you probably won't noticeably hurt anything shifting without the clutch in an emergency, or once in a great while if you absolutely just have to for some strange satisfaction, but I can promise that if you habitually shift a synchronized transmission without using the clutch you will cause premature wear on the synchros.
The good news is that after the synchros are all burnt up and no longer functioning, shifting without the clutch becomes much easier; Effectively turning your transmission into a "crash box" just like a big truck, slipping into gear easily with only a slight crunch if your timing is right.
'Course the bad news is it's going to crunch it's way into gear pretty much every time you shift no matter what you do. At least until the gear fails entirely anyway.
But hey, waddaIknow?
Crunch on dudes.
Magnum Bob

 

I have actually found out that shifting without the clutch while in low range is easier for me most of the time.

I have done this for many years and done this on every stanard vehicle i have owned (7).
Kat

 

I can shift w/o my clutch, but I'm gifted!! Just cuz y'all don't know how, doesn't mean it can't/shouldn't be done. I think it's just funny how everyone knows everything.

 

I'd still pay to watch, especially when going through a course.

I have shifted non-synchro trannies, partially synchronized and fully synchronized trannies, vehicles with "auto" clutches and almost every auto trannie around. But this stuff were someone says just match rpm's without saying what they are matching it too makes me more than a bit suspect.

I can shift as fast or faster with a clutch than anyone can without one. It is far easier to power shift with a clutch and keep the power/speed up then without a clutch. In other words lower et's on the 1/4 miles.

Shifting without a clutch in 4WD low range most likely should be easier than 4WD HI. But in any event I would really truly really pay to watch all the peeps here who swear they drive without the clutch all them time race around a course. Yes, I would pay top dolla for that privilege.

As an aside, if you ever saw a speedo and dbl tach one for the engine and counter opposing for the trannie you would know why I think it would truly be a giggle to watch clutchless drivers. Of course if you have a piss poor clutch badly in need of repair you can change gears pretty easy since it is slipping so darn much anyhow,

 

Don't understand what's the big deal. Shifting without a clutch will not distroy your tranny if you don't force grind. you are simply matching your car's speed with the gear you want to shift into. You are using your car's velocity to sync the gears. It does not heat up your tranny... if fact, there should be less load as you are not working your sycro's.

 

Not to be a smart ass, but are there any sugestions about if you have to shift in water? My last jeep was an auto and there were plenty of times I had to shift back and forth when I got hung up on something I couldn't see. Now I have a 6sp and don't want to "F" it up. In Florida it is pretty much garanteed that if you wheel you will hit water and mud, even if you don't want to. That being said, I don't really want to be stranded in the middle of the boonies with a busted trans. I know my brother's 04 Rubicon was shifted plenty in the water with no problems. I asked him if he knew he shouldn't and he didn't know either.

 

Hit that riverbed with confidence. Trail Rated® Jeep® 4x4s feature additional electrical and body sealing, along with a high air intake location for optimum water fording capability. Note: Do not attempt water fording unless depth is known to be less than 19 inches.

http://www.jeep.com/en/4x4/trail_rated/

Seems funny they say it can but the Warranty doesn't Hmmm?

I am not saying that your comment is wrong Dave. I printed out the whole trail rated ad and have it in my glove box for the "That’s not covered Guy"

 

Funny... my manual says I can ford up to 30 inches.

 

Yeah that's funny I thought it was 30 inches.
Did they revise it in 08? Did they move the breather tubes or something?