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What the Hell is This?

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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 06:46 AM
  #1  
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Default What the Hell is This?

Egads! My 2012 JKUR with 82000 miles is giving me some real issues starting. I thought it was the battery so I had it checked. At Autozone they said I had 12.6 volts. They said the posts and cells are good. The vehicle seems to be having an electrical issue because the vehicle is very labored when I try to crank it up and all the dash lights flash eradically and it appears that it is taking a minute for the starter to engage. I am enclosing a video because I can't explain it as well as the video will demonstrate. It will do this after 5 or more minutes of being shut off. Please help a brother out if you recognize this gremlin. I am lost at where to begin and really not savvy at all when it comes to electrical work on my rig. I also disconnected the negative terminal and hooked up a multimeter last night. The reading was 2.4 amps. I pulled each fuse but nothing dropped the reading to an acceptable level. When I pulled the J13 fuse (IOD-main) the reading went from 2.4 to 1.4 amps but still that seems like too much.
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 06:50 AM
  #2  
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I just noticed...very briefly there was "NO FUSE" that flashed before it cranked up...what's that? I'm gonna hit Google for some quick research but any help would be greatly appreciated y'all!
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 02:38 PM
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12.6 volts does not mean the battery is good. Do you know how old it is? It is an established fact that our jeeps do strange things when the batteries are dying. If I were you, I'd check the battery connections, and consider replacing the battery. One test you can do: attach jumper cables from a known good vehicle and see if that changes your symptoms.
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 02:39 PM
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Oh, I should ad that my 2012 had some similar symptoms as yours about 6 months ago. Turns out that my starter went bad. Put a new starter in and all is well again.
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 06:07 PM
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Hey y’all! Thanks for replying. I had my starter replaced at 75000 miles and that wasn’t it. I discovered that it was in fact the battery. It was an Interstate that I’d had for 4 years and 4 months. I got a new one and haven’t had an issue since. That’s a relief to know that it wasn’t a short or larger electrical issue. But, it is still possible that there is a parasitic draw somewhere. That’s a possibility described by my mechanic who said that a new battery can mask a parasitic draw for a month or so but will become noticeable after that. When I tested my battery before replacing it I disconnected the negative terminal and put a multimeter on the negative post and the negative terminal. It was showing 2.4 amps drawn out somewhere. When all fuses tested as good I finally popped the J13(IOD-Main) fuse. That sucka draws an amp on its own when it’s just chilling. I believe that’s “normal” but still a bit eye watering to discover. I thank you all for helping me out.

Last edited by Papa Bear; Aug 14, 2019 at 06:09 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Papa Bear
Hey y’all! Thanks for replying. I had my starter replaced at 75000 miles and that wasn’t it. I discovered that it was in fact the battery. It was an Interstate that I’d had for 4 years and 4 months. I got a new one and haven’t had an issue since. That’s a relief to know that it wasn’t a short or larger electrical issue. But, it is still possible that there is a parasitic draw somewhere. That’s a possibility described by my mechanic who said that a new battery can mask a parasitic draw for a month or so but will become noticeable after that. When I tested my battery before replacing it I disconnected the negative terminal and put a multimeter on the negative post and the negative terminal. It was showing 2.4 amps drawn out somewhere. When all fuses tested as good I finally popped the J13(IOD-Main) fuse. That sucka draws an amp on its own when it’s just chilling. I believe that’s “normal” but still a bit eye watering to discover. I thank you all for helping me out.
When you checked for a parasitic draw, did you wait several minutes after connecting the multimeter? It takes a while for the computers to go back to sleep. If you lose continuity, then reconnect, the waiting period starts over.
Doors must be closed, and the key must be out of the ignition switch. Do you have an under-hood lamp? If so, make sure it's disconnected.
Normal draw when everything is asleep is 5 to 35 miliamps.

Last edited by ronjenx; Aug 15, 2019 at 04:24 AM.
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