Blowing Fuses for Power Door Locks
#1
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Blowing Fuses for Power Door Locks
Electric Door Lock Issue (sudden onset)
Today I was driving, sitting at a red light, and suddenly I noticed the dash lit up as if I just put the key in. I wondered why, but saw nothing unusual... then when I got out and went to lock the doors via the power door lock switch on my door, I got nothing. So I used the key fob. Nada. So I pulled the fuse and found it blown. ok, no problem, right? I put a new fuse in and it was sparking away as I tried to make a connection, then the horn beeped once and the fuse blew.
hmmm.
So I disconnect both front doors to eliminate their switches as a potential short I put another fuse in. As soon as it makes contact it sparks so I didn't try any more. Clearly something is shorting. And because the horn blew before, I'm wondering if the alarm is somehow involved.
EDIT: Using the key fob does arm and disarm the alarm (lights flash, and the red alarm indicator blinks when armed. Everything else seems to be working fine.)
I'll bring it to the dealer since I have an extended warranty, but any suggestions here? Anyone experience this ever?
I just returned from a 350 mile day where the jeep performed flawlessly yesterday.
Today I was driving, sitting at a red light, and suddenly I noticed the dash lit up as if I just put the key in. I wondered why, but saw nothing unusual... then when I got out and went to lock the doors via the power door lock switch on my door, I got nothing. So I used the key fob. Nada. So I pulled the fuse and found it blown. ok, no problem, right? I put a new fuse in and it was sparking away as I tried to make a connection, then the horn beeped once and the fuse blew.
hmmm.
So I disconnect both front doors to eliminate their switches as a potential short I put another fuse in. As soon as it makes contact it sparks so I didn't try any more. Clearly something is shorting. And because the horn blew before, I'm wondering if the alarm is somehow involved.
EDIT: Using the key fob does arm and disarm the alarm (lights flash, and the red alarm indicator blinks when armed. Everything else seems to be working fine.)
I'll bring it to the dealer since I have an extended warranty, but any suggestions here? Anyone experience this ever?
I just returned from a 350 mile day where the jeep performed flawlessly yesterday.
Last edited by adamisadam; 01-18-2016 at 05:57 PM.
#2
JK Jedi Master
Fuse M38 protects the door lock relay coils on the pc board inside the TIPM.
Fuse M38 protects the circuits that leave the TIPM to actuate the lock actuators.
The door lock switches are MUX, and are not protected by a fuse.
It's most likely the short that is blowing the fuse is between the TIPM and the door locks.
You said you disconnected the front doors and the fuse would still blow.
Did you try the same thing with the rear doors?
And, don't forget the tail gate.
If, after all the doors are disconnected, it continues to blow the fuse, you will have to check each lock/unlock wire for continuity to ground.
Fuse M38 protects the circuits that leave the TIPM to actuate the lock actuators.
The door lock switches are MUX, and are not protected by a fuse.
It's most likely the short that is blowing the fuse is between the TIPM and the door locks.
You said you disconnected the front doors and the fuse would still blow.
Did you try the same thing with the rear doors?
And, don't forget the tail gate.
If, after all the doors are disconnected, it continues to blow the fuse, you will have to check each lock/unlock wire for continuity to ground.
Last edited by ronjenx; 01-18-2016 at 06:47 PM.
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MudSlut (11-30-2021)
#3
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Fuse M38 protects the door lock relay coils on the pc board inside the TIPM.
Fuse M38 protects the circuits that leave the TIPM to actuate the lock actuators.
The door lock switches are MUX, and are not protected by a fuse.
It's most likely the short that is blowing the fuse is between the TIPM and the door locks.
You said you disconnected the front doors and the fuse would still blow.
Did you try the same thing with the rear doors?
And, don't forget the tail gate.
If, after all the doors are disconnected, it continues to blow the fuse, you will have to check each lock/unlock wire for continuity to ground.
Fuse M38 protects the circuits that leave the TIPM to actuate the lock actuators.
The door lock switches are MUX, and are not protected by a fuse.
It's most likely the short that is blowing the fuse is between the TIPM and the door locks.
You said you disconnected the front doors and the fuse would still blow.
Did you try the same thing with the rear doors?
And, don't forget the tail gate.
If, after all the doors are disconnected, it continues to blow the fuse, you will have to check each lock/unlock wire for continuity to ground.
How would I unplug the tailgate? Where's the plug? (Please don't say inside the gate because I have a storage pack on the gate that I'd have to remove to access it. )
Not sure how a MUX works. Just had to google it to see what it means. I sorta get it.
I guess it's important to note that I have a simple in-line rocker switch in my door that is in-line of the purple wire so that I can fool the jeep into thinking the door is closed when it's open. But if this was part of my problem, it would go away when the door harness was unplugged.
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MudSlut (11-30-2021)
#5
JK Newbie
Same problem...kind of
I also am having that issue but additionally my rear wiper does not work. That fuse was blown and when I tried replacing it I got the spark and horn the first time then just the spark on the 2nd fuse. I did not disconnect anything yet but I thought I would check to see if you've had success fixing your issue with the further disconnects of the tailgate and the rear doors.
#6
JK Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2018
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Same problem.HELP!!!!
I have a 2010 JK and my power locks suddenly quit working. I replaced a blown fuse and it blew again.
I disconnected all door and tailgate harness' 1 at a time and still kept blowing the fuse. After about a week the alarm stopped working as well. I even disconnected each of the large harness' under the TPM one-by-one and it STILL blew the fuse!
How is that possible?!!
Does anyone know of or can be related to the anti theft system since it locks the doors when activated?
I also have the ringing noise that is activated when you exit your car with the keys still in the ignition come on every time I open the door(without the key being in the ognition)
I hope it's not the TPM. If you have any idea please let me know!!
I disconnected all door and tailgate harness' 1 at a time and still kept blowing the fuse. After about a week the alarm stopped working as well. I even disconnected each of the large harness' under the TPM one-by-one and it STILL blew the fuse!
How is that possible?!!
Does anyone know of or can be related to the anti theft system since it locks the doors when activated?
I also have the ringing noise that is activated when you exit your car with the keys still in the ignition come on every time I open the door(without the key being in the ognition)
I hope it's not the TPM. If you have any idea please let me know!!
#7
Super Moderator
I had the same issue. Fuse M38 would blew out and as soon as I connected a new fuse the windshield wiper spray would start going and would not shut off if you left it in.
It was the TIPM. It's a $600 or so part and then they always want about $300 to install it.
You can buy aftermarket ones but I don't know how they are. One thing I do know is that YOU DO NOT need the dealer to install it. You can do this job on our own with almost no tools needed.
It was the TIPM. It's a $600 or so part and then they always want about $300 to install it.
You can buy aftermarket ones but I don't know how they are. One thing I do know is that YOU DO NOT need the dealer to install it. You can do this job on our own with almost no tools needed.
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#8
JK Newbie
I replaced my TIPM for my 2012 JKUR at the Berthod Motors dealership in Glenwood Springs, CO. They picked it up for $779.00 and installed and tested it for another $450.00 labor. That was rough but their explanation was that everything done in house under full warranty for 2 years/24,000 and that I don't know how to do it myself. I did a lot of research on other businesses who provide TIPMs but I was unconvinced in the end that I had the time and ability to do everything required to save a few hundred hard-earned dollars.
The symptoms I experienced to cause the need in the first place were as follows: auto lock/unlock features didn't work and only way to lock was manually hitting the lock on each door; The rear wiper arm didn't function at all but the wiper fluid would dispense normally (dealership said remote arm motor was fried and replaced it); remote starter button was the only functioning feature on the factory fob; trip odometer would reset each time the vehicle was started. One note is that the dealership's service agent said that the TIPM has the door lock/unlock relay built into it (and several other important features, don't quote me but I think water pump) so you have to replace the whole computer if that fails unless you know of another way.
The symptoms I experienced to cause the need in the first place were as follows: auto lock/unlock features didn't work and only way to lock was manually hitting the lock on each door; The rear wiper arm didn't function at all but the wiper fluid would dispense normally (dealership said remote arm motor was fried and replaced it); remote starter button was the only functioning feature on the factory fob; trip odometer would reset each time the vehicle was started. One note is that the dealership's service agent said that the TIPM has the door lock/unlock relay built into it (and several other important features, don't quote me but I think water pump) so you have to replace the whole computer if that fails unless you know of another way.