4" lift on 35's
#1
JK Newbie
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4" lift on 35's
Guys, I am looking at the following setup;
4" zone suspension
Fox shocks
Fox dual stabilizer
35" toyo mt
20x10 fuel wheels
My question is, will I have driveshaft issues or does that come with wheeling? Also, is there any other issues I need to look for now?
this is going to be a dd, will not be wheeled hard(Wife's jeep)
BTW I Know 35's will clear with smaller lift. Please save the time typing it. We are going for the beefy look.
Thank you
4" zone suspension
Fox shocks
Fox dual stabilizer
35" toyo mt
20x10 fuel wheels
My question is, will I have driveshaft issues or does that come with wheeling? Also, is there any other issues I need to look for now?
this is going to be a dd, will not be wheeled hard(Wife's jeep)
BTW I Know 35's will clear with smaller lift. Please save the time typing it. We are going for the beefy look.
Thank you
#2
JK Freak
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If it comes with adjustable control arms the Zone 4" can be set so the caster is OK while the pinion angle is still acceptable. I have the 4" Rancho Sport Lift on my 2010 JKUS that came with the control arm compensation brackets. Have not had any issues with drive shafts.
#3
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No one can tell you whether or not 'you' will have driveshaft issues.
As the lift height increases, the joints run at steeper angles, and the rubber boot around the joint gets pinched. If and/or when that boot splits or disintegrates, the joint slings out all of the grease, dries out, makes noise, and then seizes. Long shocks, disconneting and flexing offroad will accelerate the wear on the boot, but at 4", you can lose it with nothing but onroad driving. Just make a habit of crawling underneath and checking the joints as part of regular maintenance, and have an idea of what you want to do if it does go.
The lift comes with cams. All onroad, you probably won't have an issue. But, you might go ahead and look at the other options for caster correction before you notch out those brackets to install the cams.
It comes with a front adj trackbar, but no steering correction. 3.5" or so is where people start to think about correction. (flips/high steer/drop pitman) Go ahead and do some research in case you decide to add this later.
It includes a rear trackbar bracket. Does that bracket raise the trackbar for the rollcenter correction? Or just move it over to recenter the axle? (raised brackets are a good thing...)
As the lift height increases, the joints run at steeper angles, and the rubber boot around the joint gets pinched. If and/or when that boot splits or disintegrates, the joint slings out all of the grease, dries out, makes noise, and then seizes. Long shocks, disconneting and flexing offroad will accelerate the wear on the boot, but at 4", you can lose it with nothing but onroad driving. Just make a habit of crawling underneath and checking the joints as part of regular maintenance, and have an idea of what you want to do if it does go.
The lift comes with cams. All onroad, you probably won't have an issue. But, you might go ahead and look at the other options for caster correction before you notch out those brackets to install the cams.
It comes with a front adj trackbar, but no steering correction. 3.5" or so is where people start to think about correction. (flips/high steer/drop pitman) Go ahead and do some research in case you decide to add this later.
It includes a rear trackbar bracket. Does that bracket raise the trackbar for the rollcenter correction? Or just move it over to recenter the axle? (raised brackets are a good thing...)
#4
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By The Way...
If you have a 2011 Sport with 3.21 gears and automatic, be prepared (including financially) to re-gear. This is especially true if the Jeep is a DD. It will be a dog and won't stay in OD. Not as much a problem on the manual.
If you have a 2011 Sport with 3.21 gears and automatic, be prepared (including financially) to re-gear. This is especially true if the Jeep is a DD. It will be a dog and won't stay in OD. Not as much a problem on the manual.
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#6
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And it won't take much for the drive shaft boot to come in contact with your y-pipe crossover. You should consider exhaust spacers. They do reduce clearance but since you don't offroad it shouldn't be a concern.
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Ok, thanks guys. I talked to a local 4wd shop and they said I wouldn't have an issue, but they are in the biz to sale lifts... I will be doing more research..
14sport, how are the 35's with the 373 gears?
14sport, how are the 35's with the 373 gears?
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#8
JK Super Freak
I'd reconsider the zone lift. I have the 4" and it doesn't sit anywhere near 4". I have RK 3.5" coils on order and waiting for them to get to the border. I'm usually the photographer on the trips so unfortunately don't really have images of my Jeep ever doing anything besides sitting somewhere with me outside. Those are 35's and the rear fender flares are also trimmed back so there isn't actually that much gap.
#10
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Being the wife's, don't go too cheap. Take a look at rancho's 4". Probably best bang for the buck. I hear it has good on-road ride and manners.
I run the AEV 3.5" lift but they have a 4.5" kit that is pretty complete and retains stock, if not better, ride and handling. It does use drop brackets to get the geometry back to spec which some say is not "hardcore." Either lift will get you down 98% of the trails.
Sent from some string and a few tin cans.