goldtr8

When driving the JK when I key up I am getting the ESP/BAS indicators and the Traction Control indicator on the dash lighting up with many dings.

I was transmitting on 14.210 with what should have been about 50 watts of power when driving the JK today. The radio is an ICOM-7000

There are bonding straps on the tailgate to body, plus the radio housing is grounded to the body also.

The unit is mounted under the passenger seat and power is directly from the battery. Any ideas.

Should I be looking to get number 31 ferrites and start to put them on the power wires.

thanks
Don

Vernnz

You gotta be kidding me!!! That is EXACTLY what happened to me. I was putting out 75W on 14.275 at the time. Hood, engine, transfer case, exhaust, doors, tailgate and exhaust are all bonded. The antenna has it's own 3/4" ground strap on the base. The antenna control lines are choked.

You might be getting current flow on the coax shield. That would allow RFI ingress. If you have another choke, run the coax through it 3 or 4 times. That will be my next step.

Did you bond the tub? I realized I didn't. There aren't a whole lot of attachment points on it. I might wrap one around the rubber isolators but I can't figure out where to attach them.

The power wires are probably fine. Check out www.k0bg.com. TONS OF INFO, and all of it good!!!

goldtr8

What does antenna is choked mean? Do you mean wrapping a ferrite around the coax?

You are way ahead of me regarding the bonding. I was just reading the K0BG site and I am thinking the noise is coming in on the wheel sensors and my sway bar. I read the info on the RF ingress and it was talking about the codes you get in an ecu are telling you where the noise is coming in. So I am thinking about some 31 ferrite split chokes to put on the wiring for these items. I just have to find a source. I have a day trip to Ohio coming up maybe Universal Radio Stocks them as I wanted to get an antenna tuner.

Let me know how you progress, I will do the same.

Vernnz

What antenna are you running? Which tuner are you talking about? I was thinking about getting an automatic tuner for my screwdriver but after more research I found that they are much more sensitive to common mode currents. As it stands right now if I had one, it would be totally useless. It would never be able to get a tune on the antenna.

The screwdriver antenna has a motor inside it to change the height/band. The motor control (Up/Down) leads have to have a choke on them to prevent current from flowing back into the control box. I have 6 turns through it. The instructions say to use 3 turns. This wouldn't harm anything in the control box, my signal would just radiate back into the Jeep. The choke keeps my emissions at the antenna.

On Alan Applegates site is a gallery. Take a look at his install. His motor control choke has red and black wires.

I checked for codes and didn't have any stored.

I won't be home until Thursday or Saturday. At the top of my To-Do list is find a way to bond the tub and hit the store for a choke to put on the coax. The more I think about it, the more I think the coax is the problem. You can't avoid wiring in these things, that just isn't going to happen. I think my coax may run along the wheel sensor inputs and confusing the ECU.

goldtr8

I am using hamsticks right now and I was going to get a LDG IT-100 automatic or an MJF-904 manual tuner. So its a tuner for fixed length antennas.

I have not decided, the guys on the IC-7000 message boards say get an automatic for mobile operation.

Currently I am undecided on a screwdriver antenna and all the mechanics for a Jeep.

I have had success with the hamstick so far, but then again I have no comparison on how a secredriver could improve my installation.

What screwdriver are you using? I see lots of folks are using the Tarheel secrewdrivers but I am not sure about pros and cons and maintainance of these buggers especially on a jeep.

Thanks
Don

Big A

Subscribed...

I have been dealing with this for about a year!

I am running a Tram base load antenna mounted to the windshield screw, And the SWR is a 1.3. The radio is a Cobra 25 putting out about 12 watts and decent modulation.

When i key up, I get the pleasure of having my wipers, All dash lights, Headlights coming on, And "no bus" dispayed where the odo is.

I have since relocated the radio below the passenger seat and antenna to the rear bumper with a good ground also, And still getting the same issues.

So... Me thinks that the RF coming from the antenna (in any location) is disrupting communications with the canbus.

I guess a stock Cobra 75 with 4 watts with be my only option.

Vernnz

Scorpion SA-680. scorpionantenas.com This is my first too so I have nothing to compare it to. I replaced my rear bumper because I needed a flat steel surface to mount it to.

Big A: Do you only have a base loaded antenna? Try a center-, continuous-, or top-loaded antenna.

RedDavid

How do i get out of this club

I thought I resolved this issue until the other day. At first I'd get it on all bands when trying to tune the ATAS120 but now I only seem to have the problem on high 20m bands. I went to install ferrite beads and choke the feed line the other day but the wife decided they were trash and tossed them so i'll be buying another set. I also have plans to isolate my second battery to see if it resolves. The other thing i'll be testing is running a second feed outside the jeep to just test if relocating the cable fixes. But, wont have time to play for at least another week.

I have the same radio in my Dodge Dually and don't have a single issue. Maybe i should add a couple extra tires to the rear axle of the jeep

dave.

AK4Dave

Just so you know.....you are tx'ing out of band. .....lol. Generals are not allowed below 14.225 on phone.

Wow.....you guys are making me not want an HF rig in my JK. What a freekin pain!!!. Anyway, of course K0BG's site is fantastic, and I would encourage you to email him directly. Also as far as rfi kits go....once again, try Amidon at: https://www.amidoncorp.com/ This is what they do. I also would suggest calling them as well.
And as Vernnz said, leaky coax is always a main concern. You may want to find the best Belden or LMR you can find. Spendy, but low loss and super good quality.

Good Luck guys....sounds like you'll be needing it.

Vernnz

1. Mail license back to FCC.
2. Put all gear up for sale.

I just look forward to the moment of sheer victory when it works as it should. ... Then I will tear into some new aspect.