ESP/BAS and Traction Control plus dings when transmitting HF
04-22-2010, 05:25 PM
#21
JK Super Freak
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Moved the ferrites, changed the grounding wire away from the stud that grounds something in the center console.
I still get some leakage at 20M triggering warning dings, flashing engine light, flashing oil waring light and flashing sway bar light. I did this up to 80 watts and no locked codes in the ecu.
So maybe this is progress, I dont know for sure. All I have left to do is the bonding, and I could add more ferrites.
I still get some leakage at 20M triggering warning dings, flashing engine light, flashing oil waring light and flashing sway bar light. I did this up to 80 watts and no locked codes in the ecu.
So maybe this is progress, I dont know for sure. All I have left to do is the bonding, and I could add more ferrites.
04-23-2010, 08:47 AM
#22
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Last night I isolated my second battery (disconnected solenoid) and all my 20m problems went away. Tonight I'll be rigging up an on/off switch so i can simply flip a switch and isolate the battery. Be interesting to see if the bad ju-ju will cross the on/off switch and solenoid.
04-23-2010, 04:03 PM
#23
JK Super Freak
RedDavid: I am home and working on the Jeep. I have to get a split bead for the coax Saturday morning.
I will be in the area of I-15 and the Los Alamos exit. It is just north of the I-15 and I-215 split toward the east. Want to try a comm check? I should arrive around the middle of the day and hang out until evening at least.
I will be in the area of I-15 and the Los Alamos exit. It is just north of the I-15 and I-215 split toward the east. Want to try a comm check? I should arrive around the middle of the day and hang out until evening at least.
04-23-2010, 04:07 PM
#24
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Moved the ferrites, changed the grounding wire away from the stud that grounds something in the center console.
I still get some leakage at 20M triggering warning dings, flashing engine light, flashing oil waring light and flashing sway bar light. I did this up to 80 watts and no locked codes in the ecu.
So maybe this is progress, I dont know for sure. All I have left to do is the bonding, and I could add more ferrites.
I still get some leakage at 20M triggering warning dings, flashing engine light, flashing oil waring light and flashing sway bar light. I did this up to 80 watts and no locked codes in the ecu.
So maybe this is progress, I dont know for sure. All I have left to do is the bonding, and I could add more ferrites.
Wrong driving home today using 20M at 50 watts everything went off and the ESP/BAS light stayed on. So I am back to square one.
I am curious about the second battery that eleminated the problem. This indicates to me we have a ground loop issue and a feedback on the power lines. I just wonder how I am going to fix this.
04-23-2010, 06:18 PM
#25
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Wrong driving home today using 20M at 50 watts everything went off and the ESP/BAS light stayed on. So I am back to square one.
I am curious about the second battery that eleminated the problem. This indicates to me we have a ground loop issue and a feedback on the power lines. I just wonder how I am going to fix this.
I am curious about the second battery that eleminated the problem. This indicates to me we have a ground loop issue and a feedback on the power lines. I just wonder how I am going to fix this.
Last edited by AK4Dave; 04-23-2010 at 06:22 PM.
04-23-2010, 09:48 PM
#26
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Vern, sure I'll be around most of the day. You got 10m working with out the ESP issues? Heck i'll shoot you my cell you can call and we can flip on the radios (cheating but it works 
)
Re second battery. I added a switch to manually enable/disable the solenoid but it didn't resolve the problem completely. The funk is getting in someplace. Strange thing is it only goes bonkers once then all is well for a bit then does it again after some time. But, only on 20m and usually around 14275 area. It will do it with the solenoid open or closed doesn't matter. But if i completely disconnect the solenoid I didn't have the problem.
As for the cable I stopped by HRO the other day to buy some LMR400 and they talked me out of it. Said it wouldn't make any difference on HF. Which i agree re signal loss but maybe not for shielding.. I Should have bought it anyways. Ended up with some beads that didn't do zip. I may run back down there tomorrow and grab some. If nothing else the LMR will be great for my VHF losses so it wont be a waste.
Tomorrow I'll try more stuff maybe wrap jeep in tin foil or run a ground strap between it and my truck
)Re second battery. I added a switch to manually enable/disable the solenoid but it didn't resolve the problem completely. The funk is getting in someplace. Strange thing is it only goes bonkers once then all is well for a bit then does it again after some time. But, only on 20m and usually around 14275 area. It will do it with the solenoid open or closed doesn't matter. But if i completely disconnect the solenoid I didn't have the problem.
As for the cable I stopped by HRO the other day to buy some LMR400 and they talked me out of it. Said it wouldn't make any difference on HF. Which i agree re signal loss but maybe not for shielding.. I Should have bought it anyways. Ended up with some beads that didn't do zip. I may run back down there tomorrow and grab some. If nothing else the LMR will be great for my VHF losses so it wont be a waste.
Tomorrow I'll try more stuff maybe wrap jeep in tin foil or run a ground strap between it and my truck
04-24-2010, 04:14 AM
#27
JK Super Freak
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Vern, sure I'll be around most of the day. You got 10m working with out the ESP issues? Heck i'll shoot you my cell you can call and we can flip on the radios (cheating but it works )
Re second battery. I added a switch to manually enable/disable the solenoid but it didn't resolve the problem completely. The funk is getting in someplace. Strange thing is it only goes bonkers once then all is well for a bit then does it again after some time. But, only on 20m and usually around 14275 area. It will do it with the solenoid open or closed doesn't matter. But if i completely disconnect the solenoid I didn't have the problem.
As for the cable I stopped by HRO the other day to buy some LMR400 and they talked me out of it. Said it wouldn't make any difference on HF. Which i agree re signal loss but maybe not for shielding.. I Should have bought it anyways. Ended up with some beads that didn't do zip. I may run back down there tomorrow and grab some. If nothing else the LMR will be great for my VHF losses so it wont be a waste.
Tomorrow I'll try more stuff maybe wrap jeep in tin foil or run a ground strap between it and my truck
)Re second battery. I added a switch to manually enable/disable the solenoid but it didn't resolve the problem completely. The funk is getting in someplace. Strange thing is it only goes bonkers once then all is well for a bit then does it again after some time. But, only on 20m and usually around 14275 area. It will do it with the solenoid open or closed doesn't matter. But if i completely disconnect the solenoid I didn't have the problem.
As for the cable I stopped by HRO the other day to buy some LMR400 and they talked me out of it. Said it wouldn't make any difference on HF. Which i agree re signal loss but maybe not for shielding.. I Should have bought it anyways. Ended up with some beads that didn't do zip. I may run back down there tomorrow and grab some. If nothing else the LMR will be great for my VHF losses so it wont be a waste.
Tomorrow I'll try more stuff maybe wrap jeep in tin foil or run a ground strap between it and my truck
Per Dave's suggestion I will purchase another coax but it was an expensive quality beldin that I put in but maybe its messed up. This afternoon I will start the bonding process.
I work in the Detroit area and Chrysler is a customer of ours, and I am working my way in to the guys who do the RF testing. We will solve this issue. Last time I had an issue like this with a calibration problem in a GM when I worked at Mercury Marine. I used our connections to get into the calibration engineers, explained the problem and they fixed in and told me what flash to get from the dealer when it was released.
So we will find it and fix it, and if we need some help from Chrysler, it will come.
04-24-2010, 05:14 AM
#28
JK Super Freak
goldtr8:
14.275 Mhz might just be the frequency that conflicts with one thing in the Jeep. We might just have to avoid it.
If you can get into Chrysler, that would be GREAT!!! You will probably find one of their guys that is a HAM. If you do, tell him/her to key up 14.275 at 75W and watch what happens.
RedDavid:
I have to agree with HRO on the LMR cable. It is more than we need. In a mobile installation you aren't running long distances that would have a large impact. I use RG-58 for everything. Whenever I start assembling a shack and putting up antennas outside I will look at better coax due to the longer runs.
Do you have an O'scope? Noise/RF might be feeding through the solenoid along the power cable and affecting something on the engine battery side of the house. It isolates power when open but the contacts might be acting like tiny antennas. Dunno.
I haven't done anything as far as the bonding goes. I am going to hit HRO here and get a split bead for the coax. When I get up there I will install it and see what happens. I got your email. Once I get the coax set up I will let you know. On 10m 29.600 FM is the simplex calling freq. We can start there.
14.275 Mhz might just be the frequency that conflicts with one thing in the Jeep. We might just have to avoid it.
If you can get into Chrysler, that would be GREAT!!! You will probably find one of their guys that is a HAM. If you do, tell him/her to key up 14.275 at 75W and watch what happens.
RedDavid:
I have to agree with HRO on the LMR cable. It is more than we need. In a mobile installation you aren't running long distances that would have a large impact. I use RG-58 for everything. Whenever I start assembling a shack and putting up antennas outside I will look at better coax due to the longer runs.
Do you have an O'scope? Noise/RF might be feeding through the solenoid along the power cable and affecting something on the engine battery side of the house. It isolates power when open but the contacts might be acting like tiny antennas. Dunno.
I haven't done anything as far as the bonding goes. I am going to hit HRO here and get a split bead for the coax. When I get up there I will install it and see what happens. I got your email. Once I get the coax set up I will let you know. On 10m 29.600 FM is the simplex calling freq. We can start there.
04-24-2010, 09:43 AM
#29
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Yep 14.275 mhz thats the magic frequency, that the jeep hates. Any other frequency outside of 20m I can go full power any time any where.
Per Dave's suggestion I will purchase another coax but it was an expensive quality beldin that I put in but maybe its messed up. This afternoon I will start the bonding process.
I work in the Detroit area and Chrysler is a customer of ours, and I am working my way in to the guys who do the RF testing. We will solve this issue. Last time I had an issue like this with a calibration problem in a GM when I worked at Mercury Marine. I used our connections to get into the calibration engineers, explained the problem and they fixed in and told me what flash to get from the dealer when it was released.
So we will find it and fix it, and if we need some help from Chrysler, it will come.
Per Dave's suggestion I will purchase another coax but it was an expensive quality beldin that I put in but maybe its messed up. This afternoon I will start the bonding process.
I work in the Detroit area and Chrysler is a customer of ours, and I am working my way in to the guys who do the RF testing. We will solve this issue. Last time I had an issue like this with a calibration problem in a GM when I worked at Mercury Marine. I used our connections to get into the calibration engineers, explained the problem and they fixed in and told me what flash to get from the dealer when it was released.
So we will find it and fix it, and if we need some help from Chrysler, it will come.
04-24-2010, 09:48 AM
#30
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goldtr8:
RedDavid:
I have to agree with HRO on the LMR cable. It is more than we need. In a mobile installation you aren't running long distances that would have a large impact. I use RG-58 for everything. Whenever I start assembling a shack and putting up antennas outside I will look at better coax due to the longer runs.
RedDavid:
I have to agree with HRO on the LMR cable. It is more than we need. In a mobile installation you aren't running long distances that would have a large impact. I use RG-58 for everything. Whenever I start assembling a shack and putting up antennas outside I will look at better coax due to the longer runs.