adding power door locks
12-24-2008, 03:30 AM
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adding power door locks
could use some input from anyone out there who succesfully added power door locks to your rear doors. I have the fronts added and working, but those rear doors are crazy! Awful tight space. HELP!
12-29-2008, 05:03 AM
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Done!
Quick write-up describing what worked for me:
1. I initially bought a 4-door power lock kit with keyless entry from Commando- $79.00
2. I installed the front doors and wiring without too much trouble, although the door panels are a BEAST to get off until you get the hang of it. (there’s a Chrysler engineer somewhere secretly laughing his ass off). I mounted the actuators roughly the same spot that the write-up on this website described. Seems to work well.
3. The rear doors were another issue altogether. There obviously designed to be light and removable, so there’s really no good place to mount the aftermarket actuators. After several hours of cussing, fussing and breaking things, I opted to purchase the OEM power latches, cost $61 each. Unless you’re a pro, trust me, save your sanity and buy these latches. Three torx bolts and bam, your done.
4. The existing wiring harness going to the original (non-power) latches have a 4-pin connector. Two positions are used, the other two are empty. One factory wire is your “door ajar” light and the other is “ground”. The wiring connector comes apart easily- just add your two aftermarket wires (lock, unlock) to this existing connector. I bought crimp-style pins from Radio Shack that are used on computer connectors- couple of bucks. Bring in the new latch, and they will help you match up the pin size. Add the new wires, close the factory wire connector, plug and play.
5. Since I had the two extra aftermarket actuators, I used one of them on the rear gate. I tapped into the wires going to one of the rear doors. This one was super-easy, took about fifteen minutes.
Like I said, this worked for me. I’m sure there are other ways to skin this cat. I didn’t want power windows, but with three kids, it really does make life easier to have power door locks. I didn’t take any pics, but if you have any ?’s, feel free to let me know.
1. I initially bought a 4-door power lock kit with keyless entry from Commando- $79.00
2. I installed the front doors and wiring without too much trouble, although the door panels are a BEAST to get off until you get the hang of it. (there’s a Chrysler engineer somewhere secretly laughing his ass off). I mounted the actuators roughly the same spot that the write-up on this website described. Seems to work well.
3. The rear doors were another issue altogether. There obviously designed to be light and removable, so there’s really no good place to mount the aftermarket actuators. After several hours of cussing, fussing and breaking things, I opted to purchase the OEM power latches, cost $61 each. Unless you’re a pro, trust me, save your sanity and buy these latches. Three torx bolts and bam, your done.
4. The existing wiring harness going to the original (non-power) latches have a 4-pin connector. Two positions are used, the other two are empty. One factory wire is your “door ajar” light and the other is “ground”. The wiring connector comes apart easily- just add your two aftermarket wires (lock, unlock) to this existing connector. I bought crimp-style pins from Radio Shack that are used on computer connectors- couple of bucks. Bring in the new latch, and they will help you match up the pin size. Add the new wires, close the factory wire connector, plug and play.
5. Since I had the two extra aftermarket actuators, I used one of them on the rear gate. I tapped into the wires going to one of the rear doors. This one was super-easy, took about fifteen minutes.
Like I said, this worked for me. I’m sure there are other ways to skin this cat. I didn’t want power windows, but with three kids, it really does make life easier to have power door locks. I didn’t take any pics, but if you have any ?’s, feel free to let me know.
12-29-2008, 08:31 AM
#3
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Quick write-up describing what worked for me:
1. I initially bought a 4-door power lock kit with keyless entry from Commando- $79.00
2. I installed the front doors and wiring without too much trouble, although the door panels are a BEAST to get off until you get the hang of it. (there’s a Chrysler engineer somewhere secretly laughing his ass off). I mounted the actuators roughly the same spot that the write-up on this website described. Seems to work well.
3. The rear doors were another issue altogether. There obviously designed to be light and removable, so there’s really no good place to mount the aftermarket actuators. After several hours of cussing, fussing and breaking things, I opted to purchase the OEM power latches, cost $61 each. Unless you’re a pro, trust me, save your sanity and buy these latches. Three torx bolts and bam, your done.
4. The existing wiring harness going to the original (non-power) latches have a 4-pin connector. Two positions are used, the other two are empty. One factory wire is your “door ajar” light and the other is “ground”. The wiring connector comes apart easily- just add your two aftermarket wires (lock, unlock) to this existing connector. I bought crimp-style pins from Radio Shack that are used on computer connectors- couple of bucks. Bring in the new latch, and they will help you match up the pin size. Add the new wires, close the factory wire connector, plug and play.
5. Since I had the two extra aftermarket actuators, I used one of them on the rear gate. I tapped into the wires going to one of the rear doors. This one was super-easy, took about fifteen minutes.
Like I said, this worked for me. I’m sure there are other ways to skin this cat. I didn’t want power windows, but with three kids, it really does make life easier to have power door locks. I didn’t take any pics, but if you have any ?’s, feel free to let me know.
1. I initially bought a 4-door power lock kit with keyless entry from Commando- $79.00
2. I installed the front doors and wiring without too much trouble, although the door panels are a BEAST to get off until you get the hang of it. (there’s a Chrysler engineer somewhere secretly laughing his ass off). I mounted the actuators roughly the same spot that the write-up on this website described. Seems to work well.
3. The rear doors were another issue altogether. There obviously designed to be light and removable, so there’s really no good place to mount the aftermarket actuators. After several hours of cussing, fussing and breaking things, I opted to purchase the OEM power latches, cost $61 each. Unless you’re a pro, trust me, save your sanity and buy these latches. Three torx bolts and bam, your done.
4. The existing wiring harness going to the original (non-power) latches have a 4-pin connector. Two positions are used, the other two are empty. One factory wire is your “door ajar” light and the other is “ground”. The wiring connector comes apart easily- just add your two aftermarket wires (lock, unlock) to this existing connector. I bought crimp-style pins from Radio Shack that are used on computer connectors- couple of bucks. Bring in the new latch, and they will help you match up the pin size. Add the new wires, close the factory wire connector, plug and play.
5. Since I had the two extra aftermarket actuators, I used one of them on the rear gate. I tapped into the wires going to one of the rear doors. This one was super-easy, took about fifteen minutes.
Like I said, this worked for me. I’m sure there are other ways to skin this cat. I didn’t want power windows, but with three kids, it really does make life easier to have power door locks. I didn’t take any pics, but if you have any ?’s, feel free to let me know.
01-10-2009, 07:08 PM
#4
JK Super Freak
I'm sorry I didn't catch this post earlier...there is a MUCH easier way to get the inner panel off the doors so your not wrastling (wrestling) with them...what I found most people were having the problem with is the window regulator channel is attached to the inside of the inside panel (for those that aren't sure what I'm talking about our door panels are two pieces) anyways, if you look at the bottum of the inside panel you'll find two oval 'knock out' plugs, I just scored around them with a box cutter, then popped them out and that allows you to access the retaining clips to get that damned window channel off the panel...LOTS easier to remove panels now 
borrowing one of James76's pics from his nice write up to illustrate what I'm saying, hope you dont mind James
borrowing one of James76's pics from his nice write up to illustrate what I'm saying, hope you dont mind James
Last edited by BlackNorthernJK; 01-10-2009 at 07:16 PM.
01-12-2009, 02:43 PM
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yeah, that would have probably helped. Hopefully I'm done with pulling apart door panels for awhile. It may be a good thing to post on the "write-up" section...I'm sure it would be helpful for others.
Thanks
Thanks
05-28-2009, 01:31 PM
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I had an alarm installed and power door locks added to the front, but the installer couldn't make the back doors work. If I buy the OEM power latches can I simply run the wire to the front door wires at the actuators and splice into them so the alarm will open all locks? I have read all the relays and neg pulsing but quite frankly I'm lost. I would like to splice the front door wires from the actuator and aftermarket alarm and wire into the New OEM power locks.