Notices
JK Electrical, Lighting & Sound Systems Bulletin board forum regarding topics such as stereo head units, CD players, MP3 players, speaker systems, amplifiers, hardmounted GPS devices, computers, headlight upgrades, fog lights, off-road lights, general wiring and anti-theft devices.

Amp draw and relays...

Thread Tools
 
Old 02-01-2014, 12:39 PM
  #1  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
Cedo Nulli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Beachside, FL
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Amp draw and relays...

May be a dumb question, but an LED light rated at 16.4 amps, shouldn't need a 60A relay right?

Installing a new RI 50" SR2 (12V 226.3W 16.4A) and the inline relay on the wiring harness is a 60A with a 15A fuse. I was planning on hooking the lightbar up to my sPod, which is max 30A circuits. I don't see why I need the 60A relay/15A fuse when a 30A relay/15A fuse should work fine since its less than 20A draw across the circuit?

Anyone?
Old 02-01-2014, 03:43 PM
  #2  
JK Newbie
 
whipple281's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dongucheon, South Korea
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Cedo Nulli
May be a dumb question, but an LED light rated at 16.4 amps, shouldn't need a 60A relay right?

Installing a new RI 50" SR2 (12V 226.3W 16.4A) and the inline relay on the wiring harness is a 60A with a 15A fuse. I was planning on hooking the lightbar up to my sPod, which is max 30A circuits. I don't see why I need the 60A relay/15A fuse when a 30A relay/15A fuse should work fine since its less than 20A draw across the circuit?

Anyone?
You will be just fine with your 30 amp setup through your spod. Your light bar should pull under 20 amps (226W/12V=18.8amps) so 30 is more than enough. That gives you enough amps to run you light bar as well as a little room for voltage spikes like when turning it on or starting the vehicle while it's on.
Old 02-01-2014, 06:51 PM
  #3  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
Cedo Nulli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Beachside, FL
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks, I hooked it up no issues. Love being able to just cut the wiring harness and run straight into the sPod, it makes life so much easier.
Old 02-01-2014, 07:09 PM
  #4  
JK Junkie
 
karls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 36* N
Posts: 2,873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Maybe I missed something inadvertently, your bar pulls 16.4A and you're putting a 15A fuse in line? You would (in theory) blow the fuse every single time you tipped the switch.
Old 02-02-2014, 01:46 AM
  #5  
JK Newbie
 
whipple281's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dongucheon, South Korea
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by karls
Maybe I missed something inadvertently, your bar pulls 16.4A and you're putting a 15A fuse in line? You would (in theory) blow the fuse every single time you tipped the switch.
His set up has a 60 amp relay for the light bar ant the 15 amp fuse is to close the relay.
Old 02-02-2014, 04:02 AM
  #6  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
Cedo Nulli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Beachside, FL
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

^^yup.

The 15A fuse is what rigid supplied in their wiring harness for it.
Old 02-02-2014, 05:46 AM
  #7  
JK Junkie
 
karls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 36* N
Posts: 2,873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Aren't the spod switches (actual in-cab switches) what's rated for ~30a even though you're obviously not passing the full current through them? The point of the spod is to clean up your wiring up also keep the high amps out of the cab.

So if the spod operates how I think it does and you've got the light bar wired to the spod and not just the switch across the windshield then you should be able to select your own fuse size under the hood for the light bar, 20a would be a good choice. The 60a is your relay and over 60a it will fail but if 60a goes through your relay then it's headed straight for the light bar- the switch isn't stopping it.

Am I completely left field on this one? I don't have the spod but I've done research into it and I've wired up a few lights here and there.
Old 02-04-2014, 04:32 PM
  #8  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
Cedo Nulli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Beachside, FL
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by karls
Aren't the spod switches (actual in-cab switches) what's rated for ~30a even though you're obviously not passing the full current through them? The point of the spod is to clean up your wiring up also keep the high amps out of the cab.

So if the spod operates how I think it does and you've got the light bar wired to the spod and not just the switch across the windshield then you should be able to select your own fuse size under the hood for the light bar, 20a would be a good choice. The 60a is your relay and over 60a it will fail but if 60a goes through your relay then it's headed straight for the light bar- the switch isn't stopping it.

Am I completely left field on this one? I don't have the spod but I've done research into it and I've wired up a few lights here and there.
The circuits are all rated to 30A on the sPod. Anything over can't be run directly to it...IE, my ARB compressor. The sPod switch activates the relay, but the power is run directly off the battery and uses the ARB harness because it exceeds the sPod rating.

Other wise, I think you're right about everything else.



Quick Reply: Amp draw and relays...



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:13 AM.