renegadelt1

Let us know what you find, the reason for the ground on the switch is for the indicator lamp in the switch.

bksnyder2

Will do. Thanks!

Mark Doiron

Doh! Like I said: Sometimes I'm a dunce. Anyway, I can see that in the Hella diagram. Some troubleshooting ideas that I would use if this were my problem (I'd perform this with the headlights on bright, and with the aux lights on, and using lots of care to not short anything out, while at all times double-checking each step on the wiring diagrams). (Legal stuff: I've done my best to be accurate below, but please use caution and remember that sometimes I'm a dunce and I don't accept any responsibility should something go awry--Use the following at your own risk!):

1. Grounding to the bumper should be fine, but I'd eliminate it by running a quick jumper from the lamp ground wire to a different location--maybe even all the way back to the battery. This is just a test, so I'd use a length of wire and a couple alligator clips.

2. Now, I'd split the problem in the middle: At each relay, I'd measure for 12 VDC (it'll probably read a little higher) at the coil of the relay (pin 86). I'd skip to step 6 if this measurement is bad.

3. If step 2 was good, I'd measure for 12 VDC at the input side of the relay contact (pin 30). If that's bad, I'd have a wiring problem between the battery and the relay. I'd confirm this with my jumper between the battery positive terminal and pin 30 of the relay.

4. If step 3 was good, I'd measure for 12 VDC at the output side of the relay contact (pin 87). If that's bad, I'd check the relay coil ground on pin 85. The quickest way would be to just put my jumper from pin 85 to the battery negative terminal (I wouldn't use a VOM with power applied to the lights--if the ground is missing there would be a voltage difference between the pin 85 and ground that would throw off any reading, and might damage my VOM). If the relay starts working, I'd have a bad ground wire from pin 85. If after placing the jumper the relay still did not work, I'd have a bad relay (Two? Unlikely!). I'd confirm this with my jumper across pins 30 and 87.

5. If step 4 was good, I'd measure for 12 VDC at each light input voltage connection. If I have voltage and the ground is good (step 1), then the light assembly is bad. If there is no 12 VDC at the lights, then I have a problem with the wiring from the relay to the lights. I'd confirm this with my jumper.

6. If step 2 was bad (no/low voltage), I'd measure for input voltage at the switch (pin 1). If that's bad, I'd have a wiring problem between headlight bright circuit and the switch. Or--there may be a problem in the JK's ability to provide power off of the headlight bright circuit. There's a lot of computerized stuff in the JK, so I'm a little concerned that I may be treading into an area in which I have no personal experience.

7. If step 6 was good, I'd measure for output voltage at the switch (pin 2). If that's bad, I'd replace the switch. To confirm this, I'd take my jumper and put it across pins 1 and 2 and--"viola!"--I should see light. If the output voltage read good, I'd have a problem in the wiring from the switch to the relay. I'd use my jumper between the switch pin 2 and the relay pin 86 to confirm this.

I hope the preceding helps. Actually, I hope even more that it's accurate. As I said in my disclaimer: I tried to be accurate, but writing this stuff out without actually exercising each step can lead to mistakes. Please don't do anything above that seems dumb--it probably is!

Good luck!

NOTE: If anyone smarter than me detects an inaccuracy in the above, please post in this thread and PM me. And, as soon as I see it, I will come back and edit the preceding to be correct.

renegadelt1

Mark, that’s an excellent troubleshooting list thanks for shareing, I need to reread it I don’t think I seen anything about checking for ground on pin 85. As for connecting to a JK most can be solved with a capacitor and a diode one the other or both normally would satisfy the JK electronics

Thumper616

I installed some PIAA's a few weekends ago. I also didn't tap into the high beam wire for the switch power (it looks like that's #7 in your diagram). Instead, I ran that wire to the empty M9 fuse in the fuse box. M8 and M9 are for heated seats. It's pretty simple, you can use a fuse tap. Even if you don't want to use this way permanently, it's not a bad troubleshooting method. Just take that switch power wire, wrap it around the tooth of a 20 amp fuse and insert into the M8 or M9 fuse bank (with the negative battery cable disconnected, of course) - then test to see if it works. If so, then you can work a more finished solution with a fuse tap.

Mark Doiron

Good catch. I edited step 4.

bksnyder2

WOOO HOOOO!!!!

You guys are great! We were on the right track with the grounding at the bumper! I used the volt meter and had power everywhere except right at the lights and figured out then that it was a grounding problem. I ran the ground for each light back to a solid ground using one of the bolts that attach the bumper directly to the frame and all was good. Here are a couple of pictures for your enjoyment.

Thanks to everyone for their help with this one.

renegadelt1

You da man
Glad you could work it out .
Be sure to print mark's list it will come in handy

Mark Doiron

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