That extra terminal on the marine battery sure comes in handy, and makes connecting accessories to battery a lot neater and cleaner.

 

Definitely!

 

John, you recently sent me the smart iso separately as I already had the stage 2 kit and wanted to upgrade to "smart" functions. Thanks again for getting that to me! Question: In your previous posts last year you state that the stage 3 kit comes with a 200A smart iso. I received the 85A unit, prt# 48525. Any reason I should have the 200A unit, prt# 48530?

 

Second question: I have installed remote "quick connect" jumper outputs on the front and rear of the JK. If my batteries were depleted to the point I would have to "jump" the batteries; can I do that by connecting my output cables to the "donner" battery; and essentially jump my battery without opening my hood? Will current flowing "backwards" to the Aux battery and through the iso to the Main battery cause any damage to the smart iso? If not will the 85A iso handle the current during the jump start procedure?

 

After doing more research & testing on the JK alternator I stopped using the 200A version & lowered the prices on the kits.

First, the 140 amp rating on the alternator is pretty generous. I've tested 3 different ones and the best I can get them to put out is around 130 amps.

Second, they only put out that many amps when needed, and at high RPMs, like 4K. So it would take a dead battery and all your electrical accessories turned on, and high revving the motor to get the alternator to make 130 amps.

Then before any amps go to the battery, the running Jeep takes around 40 amps. That leaves 90 amps (best case) going into battery 1.

So now you'd have to have both batteries dead, and a revved out motor to get the alternator to make 90 amps for charging.

If both batteries are dead (an extremely rare condition that usually means something else is wrong) then the 90 amps is approx split between the batteries. That's not exact, but it's close. So 45 amps goes into battery 1 and 45 amps goes through the solenoid to battery 2.

If battery 1 is dead and battery 2 is charged, then with the Jeep running, almost no amps go across the solenoid.

If battery 1 is charged, and battery 2 is dead, at full RPM we've measured around 65 amps max across the solenoid.

The worst case scenario, is if battery 2 (aux) battery is completely dead (rare) and you try a heavy winch pull with the engine revving you'll pull a bunch of amps across the solenoid. We caution against doing that in our manual.

Even with all that said, the amp rating has more to do with the amount of amps it can switch, not the amps it can carry. In fact, the primary difference between the different amp rating solenoids are contact plating which has to do with arcing while switching, not current carrying capacity during normal use.

And the rating's are continuous. Intermittent ratings are MUCH higher.





Highly unlikely that both batteries would be dead, but playing the hypothetical game....you'd be fine for a quick jump start.

 

John; I hope you're still monitoring this thread; as I wish to thank you for your detailed answer to both of my q's. Keep up the good work; as this kit is the BOMB; and I love it!

 

Glad to hear you like the kit!

I really like having the dual batteries in my JK (and that's not just marketing bs).

I put them to a lot of good use on the Rubicon being able to power a Ready Welder and fix some broken/stranded rigs on the trail.

 

Hey John,
I would really like to get my system installed. I purchased it this year and have been trying to get a response from your group for months. I have called, PMed you numerous times and you never responded back.
What is it going to take to get a response?

 

Why don't you post whatever question/problem you are having here and see if some of the forum members or john can answer it

 

No its way more productive to just try and let everyone know you had issues and not actually try to solve your problem.