the blinding blue light
I'm noticing my wife's Compass (sorry) has the nifty hi-beam overlay where there's just the outline of the light showing in blue with the little rays coming out of it. Could this maybe be something the JK line forgot to add into the cluster like the cargo tie downs, the interior hod light, the....? Well you get my drift.
poke a few holes in electrical tape with a pencil tip or Screw tip. You'll black out the light, but still have enough shine through to remind you if they're on... (if you need the reminder)...
Or, if you really want to get into it, you can pull the gauge cluster out, and see if it's LED lighting or a standard bulb, then replace it, or break a few of the LED's....
Or, if you really want to get into it, you can pull the gauge cluster out, and see if it's LED lighting or a standard bulb, then replace it, or break a few of the LED's....
I took the clear plastic instrument cluster cover off and darkened the high beam area with a black sharpie, works well.
1. Remove the two dash panels below the steering column, they both pull off, with clips to retain them in place. Start with the bottom most one first.
2. Remove the two small metric bolts that hold the black hood that covers the top of the instrument cluster, and then lift up on the plastic hood to remove it.
3. Release the clear plastic clips around the perimeter of the clear lens, you may need a small flat blade screwdriver, pull the clear lens strait off. Be careful of the odometer reset button.
4. Use a black sharpie marker to darken the area where the high beam indicator displays on the cluster.
5. Check the brightness, darken with additional marker if needed.
6. Replace the clear lens, plastic hood and screws, re-clip the lower panels in the reverse order that you took them off.
Admire your newly dimmed light.
1. Remove the two dash panels below the steering column, they both pull off, with clips to retain them in place. Start with the bottom most one first.
2. Remove the two small metric bolts that hold the black hood that covers the top of the instrument cluster, and then lift up on the plastic hood to remove it.
3. Release the clear plastic clips around the perimeter of the clear lens, you may need a small flat blade screwdriver, pull the clear lens strait off. Be careful of the odometer reset button.
4. Use a black sharpie marker to darken the area where the high beam indicator displays on the cluster.
5. Check the brightness, darken with additional marker if needed.
6. Replace the clear lens, plastic hood and screws, re-clip the lower panels in the reverse order that you took them off.
Admire your newly dimmed light.
Last edited by davidb60; Nov 7, 2007 at 06:24 PM.
I took the clear plastic instrument cluster cover off and darkened the high beam area with a black sharpie, works well.
1. Remove the two dash panels below the steering column, they both pull off, with clips to retain them in place. Start with the bottom most one first.
2. Remove the two small metric bolts that hold the black hood that covers the top of the instrument cluster, and then lift up on the plastic hood to remove it.
3. Release the clear plastic clips around the perimeter of the clear lens, you may need a small flat blade screwdriver, pull the clear lens strait off. Be careful of the odometer reset button.
4. Use a black sharpie marker to darken the area where the high beam indicator displays on the cluster.
5. Check the brightness, darken with additional marker if needed.
6. Replace the clear lens, plastic hood and screws, re-clip the lower panels in the reverse order that you took them off.
Admire your newly dimmed light.
1. Remove the two dash panels below the steering column, they both pull off, with clips to retain them in place. Start with the bottom most one first.
2. Remove the two small metric bolts that hold the black hood that covers the top of the instrument cluster, and then lift up on the plastic hood to remove it.
3. Release the clear plastic clips around the perimeter of the clear lens, you may need a small flat blade screwdriver, pull the clear lens strait off. Be careful of the odometer reset button.
4. Use a black sharpie marker to darken the area where the high beam indicator displays on the cluster.
5. Check the brightness, darken with additional marker if needed.
6. Replace the clear lens, plastic hood and screws, re-clip the lower panels in the reverse order that you took them off.
Admire your newly dimmed light.
Looks like I should see if it is...
...I am so afraid of messing up my shiny nice toy.
Thanks
[Not a complete hijack, but partially - sorry!]
The high beams really do work well, depending on whether you're driving up or downhill (uphill, they're great; downhill, they're just too high). I've also noticed that they're better in dry conditions. I've seen that any large degree of humidity (rain / light fog / etc) really seems to sap their efficiency - maybe that's just me, though.
I think (can't prove it) that most JK's come out of the factory with their headlights improperly aimed... this would explain why:
1) Many of us have been flashed at night when we're just using our dims (with or without fogs)
2) The high beams seem designed to pick out low-flying aircraft rather than light the road.
When I can find some time (and haven't been bitten by the lazy bug), I'll try re-aiming my headlights ever so slightly downward... I believe that this will actually make the brights useful!
The high beams really do work well, depending on whether you're driving up or downhill (uphill, they're great; downhill, they're just too high). I've also noticed that they're better in dry conditions. I've seen that any large degree of humidity (rain / light fog / etc) really seems to sap their efficiency - maybe that's just me, though.
I think (can't prove it) that most JK's come out of the factory with their headlights improperly aimed... this would explain why:
1) Many of us have been flashed at night when we're just using our dims (with or without fogs)
2) The high beams seem designed to pick out low-flying aircraft rather than light the road.
When I can find some time (and haven't been bitten by the lazy bug), I'll try re-aiming my headlights ever so slightly downward... I believe that this will actually make the brights useful!
[Not a complete hijack, but partially - sorry!]
The high beams really do work well, depending on whether you're driving up or downhill (uphill, they're great; downhill, they're just too high). I've also noticed that they're better in dry conditions. I've seen that any large degree of humidity (rain / light fog / etc) really seems to sap their efficiency - maybe that's just me, though.
I think (can't prove it) that most JK's come out of the factory with their headlights improperly aimed... this would explain why:
1) Many of us have been flashed at night when we're just using our dims (with or without fogs)
2) The high beams seem designed to pick out low-flying aircraft rather than light the road.
When I can find some time (and haven't been bitten by the lazy bug), I'll try re-aiming my headlights ever so slightly downward... I believe that this will actually make the brights useful!
The high beams really do work well, depending on whether you're driving up or downhill (uphill, they're great; downhill, they're just too high). I've also noticed that they're better in dry conditions. I've seen that any large degree of humidity (rain / light fog / etc) really seems to sap their efficiency - maybe that's just me, though.
I think (can't prove it) that most JK's come out of the factory with their headlights improperly aimed... this would explain why:
1) Many of us have been flashed at night when we're just using our dims (with or without fogs)
2) The high beams seem designed to pick out low-flying aircraft rather than light the road.
When I can find some time (and haven't been bitten by the lazy bug), I'll try re-aiming my headlights ever so slightly downward... I believe that this will actually make the brights useful!


