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CD tries to eject when opening door

 
Old 05-21-2019, 08:04 PM
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Angry CD tries to eject when opening door

So, I've worked in automotive for 19 years as warranty manager for a powertrain remanufactured, Blumenthal in OKC. I have a 2010 Wrangler Sahara. I replaced my TIPM 1.5 years ago at 80k with common problem, now I have a weird one...

When I hit my keyfob, my CD player tries to eject. When I open a door, occasionally it does the same thing. When I turn on my interior light it occasionally does the same thing. When I lock my doors with fob does it every time. When I lock my doors manually does it occasionally. Replaced the battery 6 most ago, but this is draining batt and I'm having to jump it every 5 days or so.

Wierd!
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Old 05-22-2019, 04:55 AM
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The sound you are hearing may or may not be the CD player. My '08 has been doing what you describe for 11 years; never had a drained battery.

People have been guessing what the sound is since the JK came out. No one has pinned it to a specific item.



If you have to jump it after 5 days of sitting unused, perform an ignition off draw test to see what is draining the battery. If it is the CD player, this should point to it.

If you have to jump it after 5 days of it being driven daily, look into the battery or charging system.

Last edited by ronjenx; 05-22-2019 at 05:04 AM.
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Old 05-22-2019, 04:59 AM
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Here are the details concerning an ignition off draw test. Read them carefully. One point to be aware of is the one about waiting 3 minutes after connecting the ammeter in series to allow the systems to shut down again.



IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST

The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.



A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). This will reduce battery discharging.



Excessive IOD can be caused by:



Electrical items left on.

Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.

Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.

An internally shorted generator.

Intermittent shorts in the wiring.

If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.





1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes.

2. Determine that the under-hood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.

3. Disconnect the battery negative cable.

4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to 10 minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.

5. After about 10 minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for the proper charging system diagnosis and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliamp scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.

CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliamp scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.





6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamp (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five mA, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in STEP 5. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment or a component failure is at fault.
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Old 05-22-2019, 07:34 AM
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My 08 has always made the same noise unless I actually have CD in there. I have come to suspect it's less of an "eject" and more of a "load" effort.
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Old 05-28-2019, 01:40 PM
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My 08 does this along with what sounds like the blend door or temperature door opening/closing. Maybe these are all the same noises?
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Old 05-28-2019, 01:55 PM
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Maybe. If I hadn't recently replaced my TIPM I'd suspect it, but its wierd for sure and will kill my batt, which is also new
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Old 05-28-2019, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by HarryB
Maybe. If I hadn't recently replaced my TIPM I'd suspect it, but its wierd for sure and will kill my batt, which is also new
I replaced my TIPM about 3-4 years ago but I suspect it has gone bad again. When I drive with my fog lights and headlights and turn my directional on it turns off the fog lights. But only a left turn. I suppose it could be the directional wand but it kinda has TIPM symptoms.
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