Do I need a winch fuse kit?
09-10-2011, 01:40 AM
#21
JK Junkie
Yep and I keep it in the OFF position until the winch is needed. A fuse is NOT always 100% protection ..... just automatic protection. A fuse if rated properly will snap off @ 80% of it's load value (Rule of thumb face value is 80% of what that circuit can handle at max capacity without damage I.E a 15 amp fuse is protecting a system that 18 amps will cause damage to)
A winch is a motor which in itself is a load that generates alot of heat quickly. Now that being said if alot of light use causes enough heat to melt the jacket of the positive lead of the winch, the fuse may not see the amperage before it is too late (Meaning a direct short to chassis ground). A switch can be turned off to isolate the power when the melt down is beginning and damage is then avoided.
Not to mention remove the power source entirely when not in use to stop the winch from starting all by itself in the parking lot unattended (If a wireless remote setup is installed) if the receiver catches a frequency to start. Also a switch will also be a big help in say a front end collision , or perhaps the positive wire chaffing against a metal structure on the jeep wearing away the jacket and creating a dead short when driving or again unattended.
Now a Fused switch is the best ...period. Removal of power source and the bennys of having auto protection.
A winch is a motor which in itself is a load that generates alot of heat quickly. Now that being said if alot of light use causes enough heat to melt the jacket of the positive lead of the winch, the fuse may not see the amperage before it is too late (Meaning a direct short to chassis ground). A switch can be turned off to isolate the power when the melt down is beginning and damage is then avoided.
Not to mention remove the power source entirely when not in use to stop the winch from starting all by itself in the parking lot unattended (If a wireless remote setup is installed) if the receiver catches a frequency to start. Also a switch will also be a big help in say a front end collision , or perhaps the positive wire chaffing against a metal structure on the jeep wearing away the jacket and creating a dead short when driving or again unattended.
Now a Fused switch is the best ...period. Removal of power source and the bennys of having auto protection.
For those of you who believe this about fuses.
Just go take all the brakers out of you distribution box at your house and install single pole switches in their place. Then when you see that your house is about to burn down. You can run outside and shut off the power to that circuit. I have seen brakers malfunction and not trip when they should. But a fuse is different. If the system is designed correctly, it is virtually impossible for a fuse not to blow.
Last edited by JK-Ford; 09-10-2011 at 01:56 AM.
09-10-2011, 08:09 AM
#22
JK Super Freak
Sooo when you are all set to stop taking things out of context and try to over rationalize what you are trying to read it will become crystal clear for you. I was not bashing fuses, rather trying to explain why in this particular instance adding a switch is a really good thing. I am not saying to replace a fuse with a switch 
09-10-2011, 11:34 AM
#23
JK Junkie
Sooo when you are all set to stop taking things out of context and try to over rationalize what you are trying to read it will become crystal clear for you. I was not bashing fuses, rather trying to explain why in this particular instance adding a switch is a really good thing. I am not saying to replace a fuse with a switch
A fuse is NOT always 100% protection
A fuse if rated properly will snap off @ 80% of it's load value
I.E a 15 amp fuse is protecting a system that 18 amps will cause damage to
A winch is a motor which in itself is a load that generates alot of heat quickly. Now that being said if alot of light use causes enough heat to melt the jacket of the positive lead of the winch,
A switch can be turned off to isolate the power when the melt down is beginning and damage is then avoided.
Now a Fused switch is the best ...period. Removal of power source and the bennys of having auto protection.
Last edited by JK-Ford; 09-10-2011 at 01:06 PM.
09-10-2011, 03:32 PM
#24
JK Super Freak
OK. Your right. Maybe I did get a little over excited. But
in THIS case yes you are correct.. it is fair to say however a fuse is NOT always a 100% end-all - one size fits all protection for a device. Things like current limiters (Popped one off on a 480V 3-phase 400Hz line 3 days ago), Thermal disconnects , breakers and auto shunt trips , Vac Ir's , Cad blow frees (Really fun in a 16.8KV station)
Exactly .. a Load I.E device , equipment whatever you use and its circuitry shall be rated with a fuse of 80% of its value ... how is that incorrect ????
True and I cannot think of one winch manufacturer that includes a safety device such as a fuse in any of their kits?? I bet most guys just hook up to the battery without a thought. At that point something in the winch system will become the fuse
Again I Never said replace a fuse with a switch 
if you have a winch motor on fire lets say and the fuse for some reason never popped ....... you can remove power to it by simply turning a switch
Now a Fused switch is the best ...period. Removal of power source and the bennys of having auto protection.
This is the only statment that makes sense.
Originally Posted by Me
A fuse is NOT always 100% protection
Originally Posted by You
This is incorrect. The fuse / circuit braker is the primary protective device while the system is in opperation.
Originally Posted by Me
A fuse if rated properly will snap off @ 80% of it's load value
Originally Posted by You
This is incorrect. A fuse will blow at face value. You should design your circuit to opperate @ 80% load.
Originally Posted by Me
A winch is a motor which in itself is a load that generates alot of heat quickly. Now that being said if alot of light use causes enough heat to melt the jacket of the positive lead of the winch,
Originally Posted by You
Then you have the incorrect fuse size / wire size.
Originally Posted by Me
A switch can be turned off to isolate the power when the melt down is beginning and damage is then avoided.
Originally Posted by You
This is incorrect. This is what the fuse is for. Not a switch. By the time you see a problem, it's already to late.
if you have a winch motor on fire lets say and the fuse for some reason never popped ....... you can remove power to it by simply turning a switchNow a Fused switch is the best ...period. Removal of power source and the bennys of having auto protection.
This is the only statment that makes sense.
09-10-2011, 04:07 PM
#25
JK Junkie
.. it is fair to say however a fuse is NOT always a 100% end-all -
fuse is NOT always a 100% end-all - one size fits all protection for a device
Things like current limiters (Popped one off on a 480V 3-phase 400Hz line 3 days ago), Thermal disconnects , breakers and auto shunt trips , Vac Ir's , Cad blow frees (Really fun in a 16.8KV station)
Exactly .. a Load I.E device , equipment whatever you use and its circuitry shall be rated with a fuse of 80% of its value ... how is that incorrect ????
True and I cannot think of one winch manufacturer that includes a safety device such as a fuse in any of their kits?? I bet most guys just hook up to the battery without a thought. At that point something in the winch system will become the fuse
Again I Never said replace a fuse with a switch if you have a winch motor on fire lets say and the fuse for some reason never popped
Now a Fused switch is the best ...period. Removal of power source and the bennys of having auto protection.
This is the only statment that makes sense.
This is the only statment that makes sense.