Awert1

I've been looking at the sPod for a while now and ran across a how to video on YouTube. I now have my very own, modifiable waterproof case. Coming from the case is a positive and a negative along with 5 inputs and 5 outputs. No more relay harness and no more mess!

The video is very strait forward. Search YouTube with "dbox5". I am also making 3-4 more for my buddies rig and my brothers dodge. If anyone is interested I can throw one together for you.

It's an awesome set up for more than half the price of the sPod!

LifeOfABombTech

Very interested ...

Awert1

Let me know if you need help with the build or if you want me to throw one together. It's very strait forward. The most difficult part is waiting for all the parts to come in so you can actually put it together. I don't have any pics of it installed yet. This weekend I will.

JK-Ford

Not trying to burst any bubbles here. This is a nice product. But unless this product has been up-graded, the user is limited to only 7.5 Amps "Balanced" load per relay output. If this works for your needs, then:

Awert1

Thank you Ford for the heads up!!! And thank you for the explanation!!! So if I upgrade the inline fuse to the 1/0 wire like you said do I need to change my fuse? Or can I keep it at 30 amps? Like I said this is all a learning process for me, and I greatly appreciate the help and advice!

JK-Ford

The primary wire ( and fuse ) can be tailored to meet the load requirements of the user. If you only need a total of 30 amps to supply all of your relays, then the #10 awg / 30 Amp fuse is fine. But if you need more amps to distribute to each relay, then you need to up-size the wire and the fuse accordingly.

#10 Awg = 30 Amp fuse
#8 Awg = 40 Amp fuse
#6 Awg = 60 Amp fuse
#4 Awg = 70 Amp fuse
#3 Awg = 85 Amp fuse
#2 Awg = 95 Amp fuse
#1 Awg = 110 Amp fuse
1/0 Awg = 125 Amp fuse.

So if you have ( 4 ) 30 amp relays, and you want to be able to use all 4 at full capacity, your primary conductor would need to be a 1/0 awg w/125 Amp fuse. You could taylor this even further by mixing up the size of the relays? IE: 2 ( 30's ) and 2 ( 20's ).

The user may not need full capacity of the relays. But the user needs to understand that the "limiting factor" ( besides the relays ) will be the primary wire and fuse.
Hope this helps.

scratchkenny

I was reading this thread and when it comes to stuff like this I am lost. but I do have one question, If Iam going to be using led lights that only draw 4.8 amps and 72 watts on each circuit then the dbox5 would work for me right?

JK-Ford

Well, for "ALL" LED's, you don't even need the dbox. But you should use a single relay controled by an accessory circuit. Then use power from the battery and pass thru that relay to power the switches.