inactiveuser31617

Sorry I didn't respond earlier. The wheel speed sensor is an easy fix. It cost me $50 bucks for a local shop to tell me which one needed replaced then I bought the part for $30 I think in Amazon. Easy to do. The first time this happened to me( yes it has happened several times) the dealership charged me $150 to tell me which one needed replaced. Won't do that again. Good luck

jburton1103

Looking for some opinions on my issue.
I've been scraping the jeep forums for the past week.

My ABS and Traction lights came on. Mechanic read an abs code - front left.
I replaced the front left speed sensor.
Rolled down the driveway and the lights turned off. All was working as it should, even tested it on my driveway by making sure ESP would hang a bit before releasing the brake automatically. (Steep driveway).

The next day the lights came back on.
Background: While I was waiting for my sensors to ship, to stop the jeep from auto braking me into the sidewalk, I attempted the steering wheel dance. After not being sure if it worked, I went ahead and just pulled the ABS fuse. (put the fuse back after replacing the sensor).

Now the kicker here that is frustrating the hell out of me, is that even though the lights are back on, the jeep is driving as it should. No ESP freak out episodes, no auto braking me to the right, nothing. Before the speed sensor was replaced, I could definitely feel the jeep fighting me.

I was thinking the steering wheel dance had worked so I've tried multiple times to re-engage ESP. - However if ESP engaged immediately after the sensor was replaced, why would it turn back off afterwords.
I have a single late chime after the standard start up chimes finish. No dash alerts.

Sorry, I know this is all over the place but I can't find anyone with a similar issue.

Steering wheel straight,
No fuses blown,
No bad wheel bearings,
Replaced all sensors.
My mechanic, even with abs and traction lights on, says the bad sensor code is gone and there aren't even any abs codes present.
He did say the reader said my coolant thermo needed to be replaced, but my engine light wasn't even on. -may be an entirely different issue.

I'm going to replace the sensor again tomorrow and see if it repeats. Looking for opinions in the meantime.

Thanks everyone!

Mr.T

Sounds like you don't have an OBD scanner, so I'd suggest removing the negative battery terminal for about 5 minutes, then reconnect and see if the malfunction lamps clear and don't come back.

jburton1103

Thank you for the reply. I had also tried that. Apologies for not including it.

I did however finally meet success. I wanted to wait a few days before stating so.

As I said, I was going to swap the brand new sensor for the old one that came out of the right front (Knowing it should have still been good). But upon pulling out the new left front, I saw it was covered in grease (expected) and metal shavings (not expected), more than I thought would be normal, so i ended up cleaning the sensor, the well, as well as gave the wheel a few spins / clean / repeat. - Put the sensor back in, put everything back together, and no success.

So I finally took it all apart again and put in the old sensor from the right front and bam, lights turned off and stayed off. 3 days so far.
I wish I knew what caused the first sensor to fail so quickly. I have to chalk it up to purchasing a bad sensor.

Crossing fingers the lights stay off. Still wondering about the metal shavings present. Hope my differential isn't tearing itself apart. I read that a few shavings could be normal. But this seems odd that it would be considered normal to have metal shavings find their way to a sensor affected by metal...