Genesis Duel battery bank, duel Odyssey Batteries and NOCO Genius onboard charger
Hey guys I'm looking for some electrical information from those of you who have been around these systems longer than I have. I'm still pretty green, but looking to learn.
I am about to install a Genesis Duel Battery bank with 2 Odyssey Group 34 batteries in my Jeep JKU. It's got the factory 160a alternator so charging them while driving shouldn't be an issue. However, I'm concerned about my weekend warrior Jeep sitting in the garage during the week while my fridge runs so I'd like to add a NOCO Genius onboard charger for shore power, keeping my fridge going M-F.
I'm in contact with Shane at Genesis Off-Road and he's been great, just looking for other inputs and perspectives.
My questions are as follows:
1. Which NOCO is best, 1 bank or 2? When the Genesis Smart Isolator senses 13.2v it connects the batteries, so I could apply a 1 bank charger to the starting battery and when it's charged the circuit is closed allowing the house battery to charge. My concern is the resistance applied by the smart isolator or increased battery capacity when they are joined throwing off the NOCO and causing it to malfunction or not charge correctly. This makes me think that 2 banks would be better, but what happens if both banks are charging and the isolator closes? See question 3.
2. Which amperage is best 4a or 10a? I realize that when the Jeep is in my garage 4a will be enough to counter parasitic drain and my fridge, but what about if I'm glamping and have my stereo (amp), fridge, work lights, etc. going. This is where 10a sounds like a better choice. Which amperage would the Odyssey batteries charger better with and again see question 3.
3. If using the 2 bank 10a NOCO charger when the Genesis Smart Isolator is sensing 13.2v and closed will this be like applying 20a to the batteries since they are connected and each receiving 10a?
Thank you for your inputs, I appreciate your collective knowledge and look forward to learning more about this topic.
I am about to install a Genesis Duel Battery bank with 2 Odyssey Group 34 batteries in my Jeep JKU. It's got the factory 160a alternator so charging them while driving shouldn't be an issue. However, I'm concerned about my weekend warrior Jeep sitting in the garage during the week while my fridge runs so I'd like to add a NOCO Genius onboard charger for shore power, keeping my fridge going M-F.
I'm in contact with Shane at Genesis Off-Road and he's been great, just looking for other inputs and perspectives.
My questions are as follows:
1. Which NOCO is best, 1 bank or 2? When the Genesis Smart Isolator senses 13.2v it connects the batteries, so I could apply a 1 bank charger to the starting battery and when it's charged the circuit is closed allowing the house battery to charge. My concern is the resistance applied by the smart isolator or increased battery capacity when they are joined throwing off the NOCO and causing it to malfunction or not charge correctly. This makes me think that 2 banks would be better, but what happens if both banks are charging and the isolator closes? See question 3.
2. Which amperage is best 4a or 10a? I realize that when the Jeep is in my garage 4a will be enough to counter parasitic drain and my fridge, but what about if I'm glamping and have my stereo (amp), fridge, work lights, etc. going. This is where 10a sounds like a better choice. Which amperage would the Odyssey batteries charger better with and again see question 3.
3. If using the 2 bank 10a NOCO charger when the Genesis Smart Isolator is sensing 13.2v and closed will this be like applying 20a to the batteries since they are connected and each receiving 10a?
Thank you for your inputs, I appreciate your collective knowledge and look forward to learning more about this topic.
Yes, fridge is in the Jeep, actually finished hardwiring rear power panel tonight. I plan on leaving it in there 24/7 and cold, right now it just has some water in it, but that will be in flux as outings come and go. I don't see the point of spending big $ on a 12v fridge and not keeping it going 24/7. I also have onboard water in my Jeep, amazing how handy having 13ga of pressurized water is.
You had spent an even bigger $ on the Jeep... do you, therefore, keep the engine running 24/7 ?
Last edited by GJeep; Oct 14, 2015 at 12:07 AM.
Well I run dual Odyssey batteries, and a battery maintainer when sitting in the garage. My research showed the CTEK to be a superior charger/maintainer.
I have the Cole Hersee smart isolator and simply let to do it's job. When it gets connected to the charger, it opens to let both batteries take a charge.
I don't have a fridge, but I am sure there is parasitic draw, and the 7a version I have keeps both batteries topped up without issue. Which is important to me when it hits -40.
I have the Cole Hersee smart isolator and simply let to do it's job. When it gets connected to the charger, it opens to let both batteries take a charge.
I don't have a fridge, but I am sure there is parasitic draw, and the 7a version I have keeps both batteries topped up without issue. Which is important to me when it hits -40.
Unlike the fridge the jeep can reach operating temp quickly. But back to the main topic, what mode CTEK are you running wrangled? I'm looking at those as well.
Last edited by JCDriller; Oct 14, 2015 at 08:07 AM.
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Yes, fridge is in the Jeep, actually finished hardwiring rear power panel tonight. I plan on leaving it in there 24/7 and cold, right now it just has some water in it, but that will be in flux as outings come and go. I don't see the point of spending big $ on a 12v fridge and not keeping it going 24/7. I also have onboard water in my Jeep, amazing how handy having 13ga of pressurized water is.
You have a build thread somewhere? I'd like to learn more about the pressurized water.
Just click "build thread" in my signature, takes you right to it.
Last edited by JCDriller; Oct 14, 2015 at 11:10 AM.
Yeah, 16" ORI struts that almost go through the hood, plus tower brace. I have a 3.6. Already had to build a custom battery box to rotate the battery and move the fuse box. Stock air filter had to go. Relocated the ECU, aftermarket mini washer fluid reservoir, etc. Can't fit a greased needle in there now. If I had a 4-door, I'd consider one in the rear, but it is a 2-door and some floor space missing where I tucked a fuel cell up underneath.



