Here is my way of wiring up lights. I have done something similar to this on my TJ and CJ. This mess (if you can read it) allows the following:

1. Put the fog 3 way switch in position 1 and the fogs will work normally. On with the factory switch, off with the high beams.
2. Put the fog 3 way switch in position 3 and the fogs are on on, no matter what. High beams, low beams, headlights off, factory switch off, it doesnt matter.
3. Fog position 2 is just OFF.


1. Put the driving light 3 way switch in position 1 and they are on with the high beams ONLY. Switch to low beams and the driving lights will go off. If you are on the highway and want to use your 200 watt lightforce lights to see miles ahead of you but want to click them off easily for oncoming trafic, this allows you to do it.
2. Puting the driving light 3 way switch in position 3 turns them on like a normal switch. It doesn't matter how anything else is set.
3. Position 2 is OFF, no matter what.


As I said, the added complexity of installing a 3 way switch allows you to have more flexibility in how you use both your fogs and driving lights. It would even be possible to have on high beams, factory fogs, and all of your auxillery lights at once if you feel the need.

Question for the experts...
Does onyone see the need for a diode in either the feeder from the brights or the feeder from the fog switch? I don't want to cause any canbus problems...

What do you think?

 

me too!
hahaha

 

Where are you taping into the factory switch? On the column?

 

Nope, down by the driver's side bulb. I don't want to mess with all of that under the dash. I'm going to have to cut the wires at the bulbs to run the wires from the relay anyway.

 

 

good call.

 

I wired my Hellas to a relay that gets its power from the right fog light. I tapped in at the lamp socket because I couldn't find a fuse labelled "fog" either in the owners manual or the fuse cover. So when my fogs are on, my driving lights are on, when I hit high beam they go off, when a car is coming toward me I shut them off normally. With this setup (powered from the battery) There was no wire through the firewall and no added switch on the dash. I've given thought to wiring the driving lights to the high beams since they are useless anyway. I just needed to wait until I did my first state inspection last week. As for interference with the canbus and a need for blocking diodes, it's hard to tell from your diagram. I would simplify it a bit by doing the fog light connection to activate your aux lamps and possibly having one additional dash switch to turn the aux lights on when you want them on. There is still the risk that you'll cross and back feed 12v somewhere

 

seems useful, both microsoft paint and your idea.

 

You recognized my sophisticated electrical engineering software!

 

haha, the flawless circles and 90 degree angles gave it away.