Improving Factory sub acoutics
Originally Posted by Jeep Unlimited
I did that by installing a Kicker 8" powered by a 5 channel MTX Jackhammer.
Slight improvement over stock but the enclosure sucks and all you're doing is polishing a turd.
I eventually did this and could not be happier -
I kept the factory sub, and added a 12 with a loc connected to the sub speaker wire after the factory amp. If you connect the loc before the amp, you won't have controls like volume, eq, unless you have a much more expensive unit. I have the infinity wiring diagram in my album if you need it.
Last edited by DKehler; May 13, 2012 at 07:27 PM.
Originally Posted by SB5700
Here's what I did on my 2012 Sahara
Replaced the Sub with a Kicker 8-inch unit - dual voice coil - stuffed the cavity with batting - Crutchfield = $80;
Installed a Polk Audio amp (200 watt, I think) - just to drive the sub - Put it in the well in the back - Speaker-level inputs - it has voltage sensing feature (no remote wire needed). - Brandsmart USA = $120
The most difficult part of this was running a new power wire from the Fuse block to the Amp.
This produces a much better bass profile.
Originally Posted by Jeep Unlimited
I did that by installing a Kicker 8" powered by a 5 channel MTX Jackhammer.
Slight improvement over stock but the enclosure sucks and all you're doing is polishing a turd.
I eventually did this and could not be happier -
I'm not a thumper by any means and find that silly. This more about full range sound. The 8" is severly lacking and is only good for a filler. I wanted the factory look myself but could not find a good middle ground with the sound. I hung the speaker on the door so I could still have cargo room. I regret not getting a shallow mount speaker as the box still takes up about 7"'s with the door closed.
Originally Posted by DKehler
I kept the factory sub, and added a 12 with a loc connected to the sub speaker wire after the factory amp. If you connect the loc before the amp, you won't have controls like volume, eq, unless you have a much more expensive unit. I have the infinity wiring diagram in my album if you need it.
I found the speaker wiring going to the factory sub on the passenger side along the floor. Just spliced in my LOC, powered an amp and hooked up my new sub. The only problem I had was the first LOC I bought wouldn't handle the power from the factory sub and it gave zero output. I contacted the manufacturer ( PAC ) and they told me the right one and it works great now.
Ok so I hooked up my amp and it seems that there is a signal issue with the LOC. I had the LOC installed at a local audio shop, but it appears only one of the RCA outputs carries a signal. I changed the RCA cables and it is not the cables or the amp. As long as the signal is coming out of the right LOC the amp will push the sub on whichever side I plug in that RCA. Once I plug in both RCAs they seem to cancel out and the sound is distorted, but both subs work (somewhat). Could this be because of the original signal goes to a factory DVC subwoofer? (I have the 7-speaker infinity system). Can I just use a y-splitter from this output that carries a signal to connect to my left and right inputs on the amp, since it is just a bass signal? Kind of confused by the one sub set up from factory also being a dual voice coil. I am thinking that factory sub is receiving both right and left signals to the DVC.
I kept the factory sub, and added a 12 with a loc connected to the sub speaker wire after the factory amp. If you connect the loc before the amp, you won't have controls like volume, eq, unless you have a much more expensive unit. I have the infinity wiring diagram in my album if you need it.
I like the JL Stealthbox but not the $900 cost and the lack of an amp.


