Installed an RBZ Mygig in my 2012 JKU
#131
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I believe that one is the 203rd day of 2010
Check the "laser build" date in the bottom left hand corner. That should be in 2010 as well.
--------------------
OK, my Wrangler came in on Monday, my 430 came in on Tuesday, and I picked up the Jeep last night. So I'm going to grab some beer from the kegerator and give the swap a try.
#132
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Well, my RBZ worked at first...but stopped working. No power or anything. I put my old HU back in and still nothing. Bummer.
I stopped by a dealer and played dumb....they said that my system threw a code in which the it could not communicate with the radio. The RBZ that I picked up is a mid-2010, non anti-theft version from a Town and Country.....so I thought it would work just fine.
To top it off...my Jimi Hendrix CD (I was testing it out) is stuck in the RBZ.
I stopped by a dealer and played dumb....they said that my system threw a code in which the it could not communicate with the radio. The RBZ that I picked up is a mid-2010, non anti-theft version from a Town and Country.....so I thought it would work just fine.
To top it off...my Jimi Hendrix CD (I was testing it out) is stuck in the RBZ.
#133
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Well, my RBZ worked at first...but stopped working. No power or anything. I put my old HU back in and still nothing. Bummer.
I stopped by a dealer and played dumb....they said that my system threw a code in which the it could not communicate with the radio. The RBZ that I picked up is a mid-2010, non anti-theft version from a Town and Country.....so I thought it would work just fine.
To top it off...my Jimi Hendrix CD (I was testing it out) is stuck in the RBZ.
I stopped by a dealer and played dumb....they said that my system threw a code in which the it could not communicate with the radio. The RBZ that I picked up is a mid-2010, non anti-theft version from a Town and Country.....so I thought it would work just fine.
To top it off...my Jimi Hendrix CD (I was testing it out) is stuck in the RBZ.
#134
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I didn't see any bent pins in the 130 I removed, and that one does not work anymore as well. I'll pull it apart on Friday and check the harness. It would be GREAT is that was the problem (assuming nothing is broken).
#135
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No bent pins...
Took it to the dealer...
It was a damn fuse. I guess there is a fuse for the radio (which I checked) and a fuse for the amp (which I didn't know about).
New fuse, taped up a wire, installed the 430. It works. I have the green back-lighting, but I also have the Chrysler splash screen. No big deal.
http://www.*************.com/attachm...1&d=1353187167
Took it to the dealer...
It was a damn fuse. I guess there is a fuse for the radio (which I checked) and a fuse for the amp (which I didn't know about).
New fuse, taped up a wire, installed the 430. It works. I have the green back-lighting, but I also have the Chrysler splash screen. No big deal.
http://www.*************.com/attachm...1&d=1353187167
Last edited by panthermark; 11-18-2012 at 10:57 AM.
#136
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I will share what I've been researching in order to help others who may want to go about this change. Plus, I want this written down in one place.
A couple of ground rules.
#1 Get the High speed version.
#2 Make sure the 4 bolt holes are on the side corners, not the top and bottom (as found in the Grand Cherokee).
#3 Get the RBZ, not the REN. (The RBZ is the new version of the REN).
Now, I've probably looked at 60 RBZ's on line....and have gone through a ton of Wrangler, Ram, and other Chrysler vehicles trying to figure this out...and I think I finally have it.
When buying a unit, make sure you can see the top and back of it, because that will tell you EVERYTHING you need to know.
The number of round connector ports will help tell what version you have. Older ones have 3 (white, yellow, and blue). Newer ones (2009+?) have two (just white and yellow). Some only have one (white)...I'm avoiding those.
You want the FULL sticker that shows the Sirius number and full code and such. Really old models have a two piece sticker.
A very common version that people are using are coming out of Town and Country's. And is often 5064578A...that is what I have.
However, that has now changed because of Anti-Theft.
This seems to have started with the 2011 modlels, and those units will say "Anti Theft" on the front, bottom left hand corner. But what I have found is that you don't even need to see the front. You can tell the newest versions of MYGIG because they DO NOT start with 506. They start with 509...(such as 5091201).
This also seems to explain most of the color change. Old Town and Country's and Ram's (Pre 2011) seem to have had green dash lights. (I didn't check on Durango's). But the newer ones have blue dash lights.
So for the most part, it looks like Anti-Theft = 509 = Blue back lighting. You may also see a green or blue marker dot in the bottom left hand corner of the spec sticker. (They don't all have them, but some do. Also, this is in the bottom left hand corner, not the top right hand corner).
Being that you want the most up to date software, but green back lighting, you need to hunt down a 2010 or early 2011 RBZ. The build date is in two places on the backside. To the right of the DATE CODE is a 4 diget number. The last number of that code is the year. So if it ends in 1, it is a 2011.....2 for 2012, 9 for 2009, ect. There is also the Class 1 laser date...which is usually within the same year of the code and is the build date.
My RBZ is an early 2010 build. It came out of a Town and Country, had green back-lighting, did not require a security code, and was 100% plug and play. However, after a few engine cycles, it still has the Chrysler splash screen.
A couple of ground rules.
#1 Get the High speed version.
#2 Make sure the 4 bolt holes are on the side corners, not the top and bottom (as found in the Grand Cherokee).
#3 Get the RBZ, not the REN. (The RBZ is the new version of the REN).
Now, I've probably looked at 60 RBZ's on line....and have gone through a ton of Wrangler, Ram, and other Chrysler vehicles trying to figure this out...and I think I finally have it.
When buying a unit, make sure you can see the top and back of it, because that will tell you EVERYTHING you need to know.
The number of round connector ports will help tell what version you have. Older ones have 3 (white, yellow, and blue). Newer ones (2009+?) have two (just white and yellow). Some only have one (white)...I'm avoiding those.
You want the FULL sticker that shows the Sirius number and full code and such. Really old models have a two piece sticker.
A very common version that people are using are coming out of Town and Country's. And is often 5064578A...that is what I have.
However, that has now changed because of Anti-Theft.
This seems to have started with the 2011 modlels, and those units will say "Anti Theft" on the front, bottom left hand corner. But what I have found is that you don't even need to see the front. You can tell the newest versions of MYGIG because they DO NOT start with 506. They start with 509...(such as 5091201).
This also seems to explain most of the color change. Old Town and Country's and Ram's (Pre 2011) seem to have had green dash lights. (I didn't check on Durango's). But the newer ones have blue dash lights.
So for the most part, it looks like Anti-Theft = 509 = Blue back lighting. You may also see a green or blue marker dot in the bottom left hand corner of the spec sticker. (They don't all have them, but some do. Also, this is in the bottom left hand corner, not the top right hand corner).
Being that you want the most up to date software, but green back lighting, you need to hunt down a 2010 or early 2011 RBZ. The build date is in two places on the backside. To the right of the DATE CODE is a 4 diget number. The last number of that code is the year. So if it ends in 1, it is a 2011.....2 for 2012, 9 for 2009, ect. There is also the Class 1 laser date...which is usually within the same year of the code and is the build date.
My RBZ is an early 2010 build. It came out of a Town and Country, had green back-lighting, did not require a security code, and was 100% plug and play. However, after a few engine cycles, it still has the Chrysler splash screen.
#137
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Great info everyone, does anyone know if the USB port in the center console works with the RBZ? I have a stock unit with Uconnect and connectivity package and really don't want to loose these options.
#138
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Yes. I have the USB port in my center console and it works fine with my RBZ.
#140
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Yes, you can stream from your phone. I have an Android phone and have streamed both music and navigation. I haven't tried my iphone yet with streaming, but I have controlled it via the USB port.